posted
I will draw out the general shapes that I want then take it to the sander to shape it whilre constantly re-gripping to make sure it feels right.
Posts: 1843 | From: Peoria, IL | Registered: Oct 2008
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posted
This is where it stands as of now. Next I need to get the limbs ready to go. I cant wait to shoot the first arrow on this one to see how it is.
I do think the riser is too fat..it looks a bit too funny up top I think. I am gong back and forth on if I should take an arch out of the back of the riser above the grip...but I am hesitant to do so. I think I may just leave it as is and round it more during the final sanding.
Posts: 1843 | From: Peoria, IL | Registered: Oct 2008
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-------------------- Try to be the person your dog thinks you are :0) TGMM Family of the Bow N.Y. Bowhunters member Posts: 4158 | From: Dansville N.Y. | Registered: Mar 2004
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posted
looking good! The more I watch the more I know I need to make me a 2 pc r/d longbow form...and now I need an oscillating spindle sander... LOL. Bob
-------------------- "Hello, My name is Bob and I'm a BowAholic" Posts: 2238 | From: St. Vincent, Arkansas | Registered: Mar 2003
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Looks great. I'd just suggest changing one thing. You raduised the rest but you should also raduise the sight window. You could also raduise the shelf a bit more. I like it when the belly side on the shelf doesn't have glass on it anymore and the back is 1/4in above my hand. This gives the best arrow clearance. The belly side could be raduised so that the belly side of the shelf ends halfway between the grip and belly of the bow. If you decide to raduise the sight window too it will make the bow less critical of the correct spine weight. If you're not sure what I'm talking about pm me your e-mail and I'll send you some pictures. My computer doesn't like photobucket so I can't post the pictures here.
Posts: 482 | From: Mississippi | Registered: Jun 2009
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Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding; In all your ways submit to him, and he will direct your paths Posts: 856 | From: Woodbury, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 2007
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posted
Jesse I sent you and email. I appreciate the input.
Igor the thumb rest is just a few scraps of that white glass and Brazilian kingswood.
I sanded more, worked on the tips and the limbs and shot it. It shoots quite well, but I still need to do some tillering. It is too heavy for me that is for sure...It is still 57 or 58 # @ 28. I need to drop about 4 pounds and was thinking of thinning the limbs a bit. Here is the tiller as is.
Posts: 1843 | From: Peoria, IL | Registered: Oct 2008
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posted
You could also sand a few thousands off the belly glass to reduce weight and tweak the tiller.I think a little material off the belly side sight window and shelf would look good.Similar to the 1 piece Widow recurve. Bill
Posts: 36 | From: Illinois | Registered: Apr 2008
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posted
I took your guys advice and did a bit more work on the shelf and strike plate. I put more of a radius on the shelf, lowered it just a tad and then put a bit more of a radis on the strike plate. I am probably going to do a little more work on the strike plate before it is all over with.
I also took an arc out of the back. I was hesitant to do so because it would take most of the overlays off and expose the back of the coreflex S/A...which doesnt look that great from behinds. But I decided I could try to glue on some other overlays and it worked out pretty well. The picture from the back makes it look a bit offcenter but it is not.
Posts: 1843 | From: Peoria, IL | Registered: Oct 2008
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posted
looks amazing. i might try to whip one up here is a few months. I have two 0.030 glass 48" long laying around from the 48" R/D seems like this design would benefit from the thin glass.
-------------------- does everyone else look up when someone yells "DUCK!!"? Posts: 231 | From: Washington | Registered: Oct 2009
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