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» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » The Bowyer's Bench » Sweet Gum bow build (Page 1)

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Author Topic: Sweet Gum bow build
Flyboy718
Trad Bowhunter
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Well here is my first actual cut tree and start from scratch bow and it's sweet gum. I didn't have a draw knife so I used my machetii(sp.) and it all came of very easily. I am bound and determined to find a good use for sweet gum, maybe it will make a good bow. How long do I need to wait to let it dry before beginning?  -
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Quinn Stallion Classic 40# @ 29"
Quinn Stallion 50# @ 28"
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Posts: 338 | From: Texas | Registered: Dec 2010  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Pat B
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You can take it down to floor tiller stage with no problems and it will dry quicker like that too.

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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Posts: 11423 | From: Brevard, NC. | Registered: Apr 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
SEMO_HUNTER
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That sure is a nice straight post, I'll give it that much. Don't know a thing about that wood, but give it a try.......what ya got to lose?

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~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Posts: 3032 | From: Missouri | Registered: Aug 2010  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Flyboy718
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Pat, I put her in the shed until I finish up my red oak board bow...I also have to do some learnin to move forward from this point with the sweet gum as I have no idea how to lay this out and move forward.

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Quinn Stallion Classic 40# @ 29"
Quinn Stallion 50# @ 28"
Quinn Comet XL 30# @ 28"

Posts: 338 | From: Texas | Registered: Dec 2010  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
beetlebailey1977
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Interested to see how it turns out. I have some cut and split that has seasoned for 2.5 years or so.

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62" Dwyer Defiant 68#@30"
68" AIM Legend Deluxe 50#@30"
63" NTN Red Elm Mollegabet selfbow 65#@30"
64" NTN Bamboo backed Osage Strunk style bow 68#@30"

James V. Bailey II

Posts: 638 | From: Reevesville, South Carolina | Registered: Sep 2010  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Bowers
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Make sure you seal the end with some glue or something.
Posts: 1447 | From: Mantua, NJ | Registered: Apr 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Flyboy718
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Dave...seal it even though all the bark is gone? I am all new to this.

For some reason I fear that she may twist and do all kinda crazy things as it dries...maybe I should get it roughed out. How do I proceed from this point? Does anyone have a pattern of sorts?

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Posts: 338 | From: Texas | Registered: Dec 2010  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
okie64
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You can rough it out to about 2" wide by 2"thick x 6'long and then clamp it down to a 2x4 with some spacers underneath it and that will keep it from warping and twisting. Yes you need to seal the ends and possibly the back too.
Posts: 776 | From: Muldrow,OK. | Registered: Nov 2010  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Flyboy718
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How do I know which side will be the back? Just pick a side or is there a particular way to go about it?

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Quinn Stallion Classic 40# @ 29"
Quinn Stallion 50# @ 28"
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b.glass
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Usually the back is where the bark was.

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B.Glass, aka Mom, aka Longbowwoman
Gregory R. Glass Feb. 14th, 1989-April 1st, 2007; Forever 18.
TGMM Family of The Bow
Mark 5:36 "Don't be afraid, just believe".

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okie64
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If the bark peeled right off and you didnt nick into the first ring then thats where your back is. If you gouged into it youll have to go down another ring to find your back.
Posts: 776 | From: Muldrow,OK. | Registered: Nov 2010  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
KellyG
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If it is straight grained as it looks get it split. The you will have two staves.
Posts: 3879 | From: Riley, KS | Registered: Dec 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Bowers
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Flyboy, I am new also, but from what the TG folks have told me is that you always seal the wood.
Posts: 1447 | From: Mantua, NJ | Registered: Apr 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Scifres
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If you split it into staves and then layout a 2" wide bow, and make it 5/8" thick all the way across the limb, it shouldn't warp. If you put it on a form, you can induce reflex in it too. It'll be dry in a month that way.

Here's some pics of splitting: Wood 2009

Here's how I rough out osage. You won't have to chase a ring though on that whitewood. Make your bow 68" from nock to nock. Make it 2" wide from the handle to midlimb and then taper to 1/2" tips. Mark the center of the stave and then layout a 4" handle and 2" fades. Roughout

Then tiller it: Tiller 101

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Take a kid hunting!

TGMM Family of the Bow

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Flyboy718
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John I am walking with you on your reply; however, please forgive me guys...I am still confused as to where the back of the bow will be because I scraped off all of the bark at once, there is no bark left on the stave. I don't think I could split it either because in my opinion there is not enough wood there to make two staves. In my case, do I really have to worry about where the back is going to be that much? I will move forward with what John posted in his reply pending knowing where the back of the bow is...

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Quinn Stallion Classic 40# @ 29"
Quinn Stallion 50# @ 28"
Quinn Comet XL 30# @ 28"

Posts: 338 | From: Texas | Registered: Dec 2010  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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