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So building this bow at a higher poundage than I normally do has really got my gears moving.
I have been on so many bow sites in the last two days my head is going to spin off.
Looking for ways to make a riser hold a high poundage, of course I run across I beams.
Now, do you have to use a different woods when you build the Ibeam.. or is the act of just gluing the wood enough?.. I really like the look of a solid wood..with no line thru it.. so is it just as strong to cut your block of wood and use tight bond or smooth on to glue back together so it is at least laminated?
Thanks all
-------------------- God gave you hands, use them Posts: 545 | From: Roseville, CA | Registered: Feb 2009
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Yeah.. it is just hard to get 4" wide phenolic. I get wood blocks (maple) at 2"x4"x20" for my risers... so whatever I get to sandwich, it needs to be 4" wide.
Also, this question goes back to clean looks.. no extra strips.
I see Bob Lee bows don't look like they are I beamed and he does up to 75#... So was wondering if they are just cut and laminated back up, or if they are treated or something????
-------------------- God gave you hands, use them Posts: 545 | From: Roseville, CA | Registered: Feb 2009
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Your I beam can be of the same wood-most of the Bob Lee risers look like they are made of action wood-you'll notice they also have reinforcement through the riser and on the back.
Posts: 941 | From: New Mexico | Registered: Jul 2007
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Actually he has a lot of natural wood as well. I but his back reinforcement only goes up the face a bit.. not all the way to the limb pads.. But good to know about the same wood..
Kenny, sounds good. Is that priced out on your website? if not shoot me a PM on the 1/8" material. Thanks.
Yeah, I have thought about making some Micarta, but seems like the cost of the epoxy to do it, might not be worth it.. unless you are doing something special.
Thanks guys..
-------------------- God gave you hands, use them Posts: 545 | From: Roseville, CA | Registered: Feb 2009
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As Trux said, your I-beam can be of the same wood. The glue itself is stronger than the wood. If you orient the grain of the wood in opposite directions of each other you will also add strength to the joint.
-------------------- Proud Supporter of: WI Bowhunters WI Traditional Archers Compton Traditional Bowhunters Posts: 600 | From: Wausaukee, Wisconsin | Registered: Nov 2010
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Here's a bow I'm currently working on that has an I-Beam of 3/16" + 3/16" (phenolic) on the face. The site widow cut into the I-beam approx. 1/8" leaving 1/16" in the beam. The wood in the riser is Beech. Target weight is 60 lb. This bow will be camo dipped so the beam want be seen. Tony Posts: 421 | From: Dahlonega, GA | Registered: Jan 2008
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Old Master Crafter sells solid fiberglass about .25" thick and 2" wide in lengths suitable to use as an I beam in a handle. It reportedly makes a pretty solid handle also.
-------------------- "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are" T. Roosevelt
Michigan Traditional Bowhunters TGMM "Family of the Bow" Posts: 524 | From: West Olive, Michigan | Registered: Nov 2005
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Here you go with an Ibeam of the same wood. The glue lines are visable on lighter colors but not so much on darker wood.
-------------------- My daddy allways said there was more ways to kill a cat than choking it with butter. I allways say use a judo! Posts: 2266 | From: Princeton IN. | Registered: Dec 2003
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There it is crooked stick.. I ended up doing that with a piece of fiddle back maple.. Yep, can see the glue lines, but they will only show on the back sides of the limb pad areas. The rest of the riser will be laminated with a different wood.
Will post pics later
-------------------- God gave you hands, use them Posts: 545 | From: Roseville, CA | Registered: Feb 2009
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