posted
JT, I'd be very interested to see your bow build. I've got a few ideas now, but the more I see, the more I learn. Thanks. Dave.
Posts: 803 | From: Canada | Registered: Jul 2011
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quote:Originally posted by jtbluefeather871: Don't know if this counts or not, but my Dad and I are building one this weekend using only boo. But no nodes on the belly. Will post pics when she's done.
I'd definitely like to see it too, please post pics when it's done. You can post them here or start a new post whichever you wish.
I'm interested in how it's going to work with the nodes removed. Do you mean just sanding the nodes down smooth or planed flat like a lam?
-------------------- ~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32 ~Genesis 27:3~ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Posts: 2867 | From: Missouri | Registered: Aug 2010
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posted
Here's what I've come up with so far. In the pics you'll see my 2 bamboo backings that I've picked out that will allow me to alternate the nodes for a 60" bow. Then my pattern drawn out on thin birch plywood, and the 3-15" plus chunks of actionwood for the handle portion that I got from KennyM, very nice stuff!
My layout for the bow goes like this. 1 1/2" center out to 12" down the limb, then narrows to 1 1/4", 10" further down narrows to 1", then narrows down to 1/2" at the tips. Looks like a nice even taper to me, but I haven't cut the template out yet cause I need a new bandsaw blade and wanted everyone's opinion on this design before I waste a good piece of plywood on it.
Also torn between which color scheme to go with on the actionwood. I've got from left to right Desert Camo, Green Camo, and Grey Camo.........I'm leaning toward Desert Camo with a pair of diamond backs or prairie rattlers over the boo back when it's satisfactory to me. I've also got brown Fiebings leather dye to go with that color scheme on the belly. Should look pretty awesome if all goes well.
-------------------- ~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32 ~Genesis 27:3~ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Posts: 2867 | From: Missouri | Registered: Aug 2010
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posted
Looking good! I haven't done anything but think about it so far. I like the desert camo to go with the skins. I'm going to torch my belly and use a thin (maybe 1/8") jatoba lam in the middle and a tip wedge. I'll go with 1 1/2" at the fades or a bit farther out, then taper to 1/2" and when I'm done, I'll taper the last 8" to 3/8". I'm going to use a riser that I salvaged from a failed bow and cut a shelf in it. By the looks of things, you're going to finish before me. I'm working some dumb hours this week, so I might not have much time to play. Dave.
Posts: 803 | From: Canada | Registered: Jul 2011
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posted
Well, I'll probably be a bit slower on mine also. Getting the materials together and a good plan in place is half the battle. Once I get rolling on it everything should click right along from that point. I just want to think this through diligently before I dive into it cause that's how I normally screw things up. LOL
Does anybody have a good pattern or some dimensions for the fades on the riser block? I'm thinking about 12" total length on the riser including the fades, but not sure where to start the fades and what radius I should use on the taper? Any help on this would be much appreciated.
Also while I'm thinking about it Dave, when you mentioned tip wedge...........would you explain that a bit more? And would you still use a wedge if you plan to do tip overlays? Cause I've planned on tip overlays out of some off fall from the riser block.
-------------------- ~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32 ~Genesis 27:3~ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Posts: 2867 | From: Missouri | Registered: Aug 2010
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posted
I'm only a beginner, so don't take anything I say as gospel. I like to go by the seat of my pants, but I learn fast. I'm just thinking of using real thin wedges maybe 1/8" tapering to nothing, about 6" long to stiffen the tips. I just thought the tips might come out a bit weak otherwise. I guess I'll see if they're needed when I do a dry run. I'll make the overlays small - just a bit of antler or bone or whatever strikes me at the time. Dave.
Posts: 803 | From: Canada | Registered: Jul 2011
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posted
Oh yes Shawn very nice! I could only hope that mine would look that good, that's exactly what I had in mind exept I'll be doing my glue up without a form so I don't know how I'd get that nice arc on the back of the handle blank. Still working on that part of it.
Any idea what thickness the boo and lams are?
Dave - I understand that the less mass at the tips equals a faster bow, just what I've read here on the bench.
-------------------- ~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32 ~Genesis 27:3~ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Posts: 2867 | From: Missouri | Registered: Aug 2010
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posted
Chris, the overlays I'm planning on are real small and I sand back a bit of the tip so I'm not adding much weight. Plus I like the look. When I narrow the last 8" of each limb, it should lose more than enough weight to make up for the bit I add. dave.
Posts: 803 | From: Canada | Registered: Jul 2011
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posted
I gotcha Dave, I like skinny myself it looks killer.
I'm taking the width out a bit further on this bow than I normally would for stability more than anything, then taper down to 1/2" at the tips in the last 18" basically, but it will carry the 1 1/2" - 1 1/4" out past the fades. But then rarely does my original plan fully show through in the final product so I'll see how it goes.
-------------------- ~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32 ~Genesis 27:3~ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Posts: 2867 | From: Missouri | Registered: Aug 2010
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posted
this is very interesting. What do you guys think is the shortest ntn you could get by w/ at a 26" draw? I love short bows. I have alot of bamboo around since I make bamboo fly rods. I may give this a try.
-------------------- Maddog Bows (12) Rocky Mnt Recurves(2) Sierra Blanca Bows (1) Mike B. Posts: 758 | From: Montana | Registered: Jul 2009
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posted
Thanks Shawn, any info you can send me on the lam thickness, boo thickness and draw wt. that you achieved with it would be very helpful in determining what I need to get the wt. I'm looking for. Right now it's just an educated guess at best. I do have an idea for doing the glue up that will give me that nice back curve to the handle/riser area. It's kinda tough to find a way to glue up a bow that has nodes sticking out on both sides.
Prairie Drifter - With a @26" draw length you can go down into the high 50's on overall length with a bow depending on design. I've got a Hornes Brush bow R/D longbow that's only 58" tip to tip and a tad shorter when strung, and my actual draw length is somewhere around 27-27.5" I shoot that bow like it was custom made for me and I love it. I'm hoping this all bamboo bow will turn out to be one of those kind of bows as well.
-------------------- ~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32 ~Genesis 27:3~ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Posts: 2867 | From: Missouri | Registered: Aug 2010
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When I narrow the last 8" of each limb, it should lose more than enough weight to make up for the bit I add.![[knothead]](graemlins/knothead.gif)
