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» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » The Bowyer's Bench » 54" Hybrid Build-Along (Page 2)

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Author Topic: 54" Hybrid Build-Along
chackworth3
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X 3
Posts: 575 | From: TX | Registered: Dec 2012  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JGR1269
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Out of the form and off to the spindle sander. I clean up and square the edges then clamp a fence on the get it true. I don't have any fancy tools and this is by far the most versatile piece of equipment I have used.
[IMG]http://  - [/IMG]
[IMG]http://  - [/IMG]
I set it back on the form with a light on the back side and check for gaps. Looks good so now I can mark and cut the belly curves.
[IMG]  - [/IMG]
A buddy just text and wants to go shoot some 3D's. Back at it later

Posts: 100 | From: Bolivar, New York | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JGR1269
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I clamp my riser template to the riser block and mark my belly curves and fadeouts.
[IMG]http://  - [/IMG]
[IMG]  - [/IMG]
Off to the bandsaw to cut the curves. I cut the wood portion with a good blade then switch to an old blade to cut the glass portion.
[IMG]  - [/IMG]  -
A few minutes on the spindle sander has everything square with a smooth curve.

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The riser is ready for glue up so now I'll get my lams and glass marked, cut and ready to go.

Posts: 100 | From: Bolivar, New York | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dmaxshawn
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looking great
Posts: 1846 | From: St Johns Florida | Registered: May 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JGR1269
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I attached these stops to each end of my form and I cut all the glass and lams to fit precisely between so they cannot slide. The lams, glass and aluminum pressure strip all slip under the metal piece on top of the stop.
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I slide one end of the back glass against the top limb stop and follow the curve to the bottom limb stop and mark it for cutting.
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I clamp a guide to the table on the disc sander and bevel the ends of the back tapers so I can glue them together for a less visible glue joint
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I clamp one of the tapers to the bench with a piece of wax paper under the glue joint.
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A little TBII on the joint then slide the other taper into position until they match up perfectly. I clamp the other taper to the bench so it won't move then fold the wax paper over the top of the tapers and clamp a block of wood over the joint to cure overnight.
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Posts: 100 | From: Bolivar, New York | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JGR1269
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Tomorrow when the back taper joint has cured I'll use my back glass as a template and cut the back tapers to fit between the stops on my form.
In the meantime I slide the belly tapers up to the stops. With the riser on the form and centered I can bend the tapers to follow the curves up the belly and mark them for cutting. I put them in backwards with the butt end against the stop so the mark is on the tip end of the taper. It would be pretty easy to mess up here and cut the butt end off the taper.
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I use the top and bottom belly tapers to mark the length for the black CoreTuff and the belly glass.
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Posts: 100 | From: Bolivar, New York | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JGR1269
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When I started adding the CoreTuff to my limbs I wanted to see the color strip go through the riser as well as up the belly ramps. To accomplish this I added a layer of CoreTuff to the back of the riser when building it. This is the piece that becomes the tip of the fadeouts and blends right in with the CoreTuff that runs up the belly ramps. You can see it at the ends of the riser in this picture.
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If you look closely you can see the finished product on this bow.
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Mad Max
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Awesome

I like the anti-skid stops.

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"nothing ventured ,nothing gained"

Posts: 1840 | From: Mississippi | Registered: Oct 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
bigbob2
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that's a nice one, zebra and ebony? like the stops as well and the core tuff running to the fades. Food for thought! Which is precisely what I like about this site, so much information and great ideas from people who don't mind sharing.
Posts: 1877 | From: Australia | Registered: Oct 2011  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
chall
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This is awesome!

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Eric Hall, Chris Hall , Cyndy Hall

Posts: 455 | From: California | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Trux Turning
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I like the stops- good idea. The core tuff in the riser does look good too.
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JGR1269
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That bow is Zebra with black, red and white phenolic/glass.
Posts: 100 | From: Bolivar, New York | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
chackworth3
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It's looking good! Stops are a great idea!
Posts: 575 | From: TX | Registered: Dec 2012  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JGR1269
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Ok, I only had an hour to work on it tonight so it doesn't seem like I got much accomplished. I sanded the glue joint on the back tapers with some 36 grit on a block and cut it to fit between the stops on the form.
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I wiped the faces of the glass down with alcohol and covered them with a quality masking tape. I use 3M Blue Tape and have had good results.

Posts: 100 | From: Bolivar, New York | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JGR1269
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Since they are slightly different in length I mark the top and bottom belly glass pieces and put them aside.
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Another advantage to having the stops on my form is that I can lay out all the marks on the back glass prior to glue up and I know it's not going to slide out of position during air up. I mark center with a square.
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Then I mark the shelf at 1 1/8" above center.
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I mark the sight window 3 1/2" above the shelf.
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I mark center of the width.
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I clamp a straight edge to mark center the full length of the glass.
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I mark the sight window at 5/32" past center so I can take the final 1/32" off when I radius the window and the shelf.

Posts: 100 | From: Bolivar, New York | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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