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» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » The Bowyer's Bench » Bow Broke..:-( Help me understand what went wrong (Page 2)

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Author Topic: Bow Broke..:-( Help me understand what went wrong
kennym
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Shredd may have hit on something with the accents into the fades, look at how the black bends right at the joint on belly.

But it may be the fades are a bit blunt too. 1/16" at 1", and 1/8" plus a little at 2 (.140" and yes I measure with dial calipers when grinding them) is what I always try to get.

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Stay sharp, Kenny.

https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Posts: 11910 | From: Linneus , Mo. | Registered: Jan 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
arachnid
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quote:
Originally posted by kennym:
Shredd may have hit on something with the accents into the fades, look at how the black bends right at the joint on belly.

But it may be the fades are a bit blunt too. 1/16" at 1", and 1/8" plus a little at 2 (.140" and yes I measure with dial calipers when grinding them) is what I always try to get.

Well, at least I learned something so this failure wasn't for nothing. Guess it's just the learning curve... Too bad it cost so much time and money...

While were at it.. Is there any other important things I need to know? Mistakes usually made? Things I should avoid? Important measurements I need to know (like the fade length and thickness)?

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Crooked Stic
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What kind of core wood? It looks curly to me. If you use curly grain for much more than veneers you are asking for trouble.

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High on Archery.

Posts: 3125 | From: Princeton IN. | Registered: Dec 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
arachnid
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quote:
Originally posted by Crooked Stic:
What kind of core wood? It looks curly to me. If you use curly grain for much more than veneers you are asking for trouble.

It's Maple. I use 2 lams, one parallel and one tapered.. No veneers.
I thought that only all wood needs straight grain.. Thought glass lam bows can get away with any grain

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mwosborn
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I don't think your core wood is the cause of the failure. However, it may have contributed to the failure once the glue began to let go. We are all just speculating here as to the cause or the 'why did this happen". During the shot, there are a lot of forces acting on the bow stressing wood, glass, and bonds. Based on the pictures I have seen, I am betting on the bonds between the lams and glass being the cause.

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Enjoy the hunt! - Mitch

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Mad Max
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quote:
Originally posted by Crooked Stic:
What kind of core wood? It looks curly to me. If you use curly grain for much more than veneers you are asking for trouble.

yep

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"nothing ventured ,nothing gained"

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Shredd
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Hey arachnid... I found that in life it is usually 3 steps forward 2 steps backward, and that is if you are living a progressive and positive existence... Chit is gonna happen, especially in this craft... Learn from it, Cover all your bases and Move on... I can't tell you how many experiments I have done and failed to hit my mark...

Put that bow up as a reminder of lessons learned
and start making a new bow...
I would keep the accents out of the fades...
Make them fades lean...
Put ample glue on...
Don't clamp too tight... (under 40 psi)
The more lams the better... Anything over 35#
should be more than 2 core lams...
Watch the woods you use...
Keep your fingers crossed... [Wink] [Smile]

These are my opinions that might lessen the chances of this happening again...

Best of Luck, Bro...

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arachnid
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quote:
Originally posted by Shredd:

Make them fades lean...

...

Please explain
Posts: 210 | From: Israel | Registered: Jul 2016  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
kennym
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quote:
Originally posted by arachnid:
quote:
Originally posted by Shredd:

Make them fades lean...

...

Please explain
Think Rich meant thin them out nicely...

--------------------
Stay sharp, Kenny.

https://www.kennysarchery.com/

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arachnid
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When using more then 2 core lams, say 1 tapered and 2 thin paralles, does is matter in which oeder you place them and where you place them (on the back/belly side of the riser)?
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kennym
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Not in my opinion, once glued up it is a composite structure, all bends the same....

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Stay sharp, Kenny.

https://www.kennysarchery.com/

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Holm-Made
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Did you butter up all glue surfaces?

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www.holmmadetraditionalbows.com

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Shredd
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quote:
Originally posted by kennym:
Shredd may have hit on something with the accents into the fades, look at how the black bends right at the joint on belly.

But it may be the fades are a bit blunt too. 1/16" at 1", and 1/8" plus a little at 2 (.140" and yes I measure with dial calipers when grinding them) is what I always try to get.

Leannnn... What Kenny said... That's how I do mine also... 1/16" thick at the 1" mark and just over 1/8" at the 2" mark... You want a nice smooth transition that distributes the load...
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arachnid
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quote:
Originally posted by Holm-Made:
Did you butter up all glue surfaces?

Which means?? [Confused]

Shredd, does these measurements (of the fade transition) apply also when using a powerlam?

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Holm-Made
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Did you put smooth on epoxy on all of the surfaces to be mated?

If you are epoxying two laminations together, you need to spread the epoxy on both laminations completely before putting them together.

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www.holmmadetraditionalbows.com

Posts: 1846 | From: MN | Registered: Nov 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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