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Author Topic: Bow Broke..:-( Help me understand what went wrong
arachnid
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quote:
Originally posted by Holm-Made:
Did you put smooth on epoxy on all of the surfaces to be mated?

If you are epoxying two laminations together, you need to spread the epoxy on both laminations completely before putting them together.

I actually did not... I spread glue only on one side.
Why spread both? It'll just cause a big squeeze out, no?

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Robertfishes
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It's best to apply epoxy to both surfaces because..some of it soaks into and fills the air spaces in the wood grain. This makes for a better bond between the 2 surfaces. I use a auto body plastic squeegee and it pushes smooth on into the glue surfaces. I make a couple of passes, wait a minute then apply more epoxy to the surfaces.
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arachnid
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How thick of a glue layer should I apply on each surface?
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Holm-Made
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A starved glue joint was the reason the bow failed. You MUST apply epoxy to all surfaces to be mated or a high percentage of your bows will fail. This is standard procedure for building bows.
Good luck. Chad

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www.holmmadetraditionalbows.com

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Bow man
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quote:
Originally posted by Holm-Made:
A starved glue joint was the reason the bow failed. You MUST apply epoxy to all surfaces to be mated or a high percentage of your bows will fail. This is standard procedure for building bows.
Good luck. Chad

X2

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You worked to hard and paid a lot of money for that new bow. Why would you trust protecting it to anything less than Thunderbird Epoxy!!!
www.tbirdarchery.com
www.stjoeriverbows.com

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Crooked Stic
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The reason I know curly is not a good core wood it failed on me twice before I figured it out. You may get a few shots out of it and boom. It may have grain running length wise but the curly part of the grain goes from front to back of the lam and will take no pressure. When in veneer form between glass and a good straight grain wood you are fine. Be sure to do a dry run and check everything out on your next one. Keep those fades thin for a couple of inches on each end. They bend a little bit to.

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High on Archery.

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Bvas
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quote:
Originally posted by arachnid:
How thick of a glue layer should I apply on each surface?

This is hard to explain......I also use the plastic squeegee. I use just enough pressure on the squeegee to leave a nice thin coating on the lams. A good light will help you check to make sure that the lams have a nice slick wet look to the ENTIRE surface. Look closely for any dry spots.
And yes, you will have squeeze out. Better to waste a little glue then waste an entire bow(and a bunch of time).

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Some hunt to survive; some survive to hunt

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Robertfishes
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Arachnid, what I do is use my plastic squeege to push "smooth on" into the lamination, add smooth on onto the squeegee and go over the lams again, wait a minute or two and repeat.. The last pass I use no pressure and build a thin layer of epoxy over the lams. I am a hobby builder and I don't care if I use a couple more ounces of epoxy doing this. **Edit* And use a good light so you can see any dry spots..
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arachnid
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quote:
Originally posted by Holm-Made:
A starved glue joint was the reason the bow failed. You MUST apply epoxy to all surfaces to be mated or a high percentage of your bows will fail. This is standard procedure for building bows.
Good luck. Chad

That makes a lot of sense. After it broke, the inner side of the glass and wood feeled smooth, as if there was no glue remains in them.
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arachnid
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quote:
Originally posted by Holm-Made:
A starved glue joint was the reason the bow failed. You MUST apply epoxy to all surfaces to be mated or a high percentage of your bows will fail. This is standard procedure for building bows.
Good luck. Chad

That makes a lot of sense. After it broke, the inner side of the glass and wood feeled smooth, as if there was no glue remains in them.
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arachnid
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quote:
Originally posted by Robertfishes:
Arachnid, what I do is use my plastic squeege to push "smooth on" into the lamination, add smooth on onto the squeegee and go over the lams again, wait a minute or two and repeat.. The last pass I use no pressure and build a thin layer of epoxy over the lams. I am a hobby builder and I don't care if I use a couple more ounces of epoxy doing this. **Edit* And use a good light so you can see any dry spots..

I don't use a plastic squeegee, I just use a thin piece of wood (usually a lamination cut off).
Hiw do you "push epoxy into the lamination"? Can you explain?

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Robertfishes
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As I am first applying the epoxy I am pushing down on the flexible plastic squeegee. The squeegee is not at a 90 degree angle to the lamination it's at a 45 to 60 degree angle.. So the squeegee is loaded like a spring, pushing down against the lamination and hopfully "forcing" the epoxy into any small natural voids in the laminations.
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arachnid
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Lots of good and important lessons learnd. I consider it a positive experience.

Thanks a lot guys. You're the best.
If there's anything else I need to know- please share with me.

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HMlongbow
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yep the glue lines is where it failed and make a sister to original form and use a air hose. that is where the issues went and to much stress and I would like to see a more favorable taper on top side of handle. seems as though to much stress at that point
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Wolftrail
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quote:
Originally posted by Robertfishes:
It's best to apply epoxy to both surfaces because..some of it soaks into and fills the air spaces in the wood grain. This makes for a better bond between the 2 surfaces. I use a auto body plastic squeegee and it pushes smooth on into the glue surfaces. I make a couple of passes, wait a minute then apply more epoxy to the surfaces.

Excellent point, had a few failures because I did not apply glue to both surfaces.
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