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Author Topic: Bow Broke..:-( Help me understand what went wrong
arachnid
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 45147

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How about my lam grinding setup?
I only have 80 grit sleeves, is that ok? Do need to rough the surface before glue up?
If so, how?

Posts: 210 | From: Israel | Registered: Jul 2016  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dazzad
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Member # 46559

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Hi Arachnid, btw this is my first post on Tradgang - nice to stop lurking and start getting amongst it!!
I'm still in the process of getting my D/R form made, so you are many steps ahead of me!!
I've made a few laminated hill-style longbows though and felt compelled to add my input to the great and constructive comments you have already received.
The bow in the very first photo looks fantastic! Very disappointed for you with it's sudden (and surely shocking!) demise.
The comments you have already received regarding the steepish taper of the fades and the fact there are one or two glue lines at said fades pinpoint a couple of refinements you'll be able to implement in your next bow, but I kind of breathed a sigh of relief on your behalf when you revealed that you only applied your epoxy to one of every two surfaces. I think that's probably about 90% of your problem mate - if the only thing you do differently next time is glue wet surface to wet surface (with lots of squeezout), you'll be firmly on the path to success!
There is one closeup photo you supplied of the riser area, and it looked to me that a few of your glue lines were just lacking glue.....
Fwiw I would have thought an 80 grit finish will supply ample tooth for good joins, provided that they are clean, tight fitting, and all of each surface wet with epoxy.
get back on the horse mate, show us how u go and best of luck:) [Smile]

--------------------
Each day the devil whispered in my ear -"you will not withstand the storm."
Today I whispered in the devil's ear - " I am the storm..."

Posts: 18 | From: Australia | Registered: Aug 2017  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
arachnid
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 45147

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quote:
Originally posted by Dazzad:
Hi Arachnid, btw this is my first post on Tradgang - nice to stop lurking and start getting amongst it!!
I'm still in the process of getting my D/R form made, so you are many steps ahead of me!!
I've made a few laminated hill-style longbows though and felt compelled to add my input to the great and constructive comments you have already received.
The bow in the very first photo looks fantastic! Very disappointed for you with it's sudden (and surely shocking!) demise.
The comments you have already received regarding the steepish taper of the fades and the fact there are one or two glue lines at said fades pinpoint a couple of refinements you'll be able to implement in your next bow, but I kind of breathed a sigh of relief on your behalf when you revealed that you only applied your epoxy to one of every two surfaces. I think that's probably about 90% of your problem mate - if the only thing you do differently next time is glue wet surface to wet surface (with lots of squeezout), you'll be firmly on the path to success!
There is one closeup photo you supplied of the riser area, and it looked to me that a few of your glue lines were just lacking glue.....
Fwiw I would have thought an 80 grit finish will supply ample tooth for good joins, provided that they are clean, tight fitting, and all of each surface wet with epoxy.
get back on the horse mate, show us how u go and best of luck:) [Smile]

Thanks for the kind works dude. I already started grinding the lams for my next one.

I`ve been making wooden bows for 5-6 years now so I know what it`s like to brake a bow. But, lessons were learned and off we go again...

Posts: 210 | From: Israel | Registered: Jul 2016  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Robertfishes
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Member # 5996

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I buy my tapers from Tradgang Sponsors. I think they use 40 grit on most tapers. I have seen some that might have been sanded with 50 grit? When I shape riser fades I use a 50 grit zirconia belt. I believe the Smooth On web page says 120 grit. I think 120 is fine for 0.025 veneers where the Smooth on penetrates into the wood maybe completely? but I want my thicker parts like tapers and risers to have a glue surface sanded with something rougher like 50 grit.. You asked if 80 grit is OK, I think it is but 50 grit would be a better choice for me.
Posts: 3623 | From: Ocala , Florida | Registered: Mar 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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