Ha ha ha... arachnid... I told you that there was always gonna be another hurdle... never ends... At least this time its not the bow, its the camera... And at least it was a cheap learning experience... Lol...
Posts: 322 | From: Florida | Registered: Sep 2016
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I use a 3/4” piece of aluminum round stock to check tiller and timing. If it’s off any the riser will pivot to the stronger side. This is am old pic and I still use the round stock but now I also use a hook that mimics my fingers on the string so I can tiller neutral to the desired method ( 3 under or split )
-------------------- Time is the crucible of a man's integrity. Posts: 185 | From: Louisiana | Registered: Sep 2009
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quote:Originally posted by Bowjunkie: In a nutshell, here's one way to achieve limb balance/timing without guessing. Support the handle in the tillering tree(rope and pulley system) so that it's perfectly level, and don't worry about one limb tip being ahead of the other(like when one has more reflex).
Pull the string from where the fulcrum of pressure will be while shooting, and watch the hook/fulcrum on the string as it comes down.
On the wall under the tillering tree's handle cradle, draw a vertical plumb line in the exact spot that mimics the hook coming straight down, or in other words... the string hand fulcrum coming straight back(for me, this is where the center of my middle finger resides on the string, assuming a 3/8" high nock point and 1/4" thick arrow nock, which is then exactly where I put it when the bow is done).
The hook will only follow that line during the draw if the limbs are balanced relative to your holds. If one limb is too strong, it will flex less, travel less distance, and the hook will drift towards it during the draw. You then weaken that limb until the hook/fulcrum follows the line. When it follows the line to your draw length, and the limbs are bending the way you want, you're done.
There are more involved ways to fine tune it, but these basics will get you close enough for our intents.
Done this way, when drawn by hand, both limb tips travel the same distance, bringing the arrow's nock end straight back relative to the handle/shelf, and it leaves straight away, inherently tuned without porpoising, and so without a need to move the nock point up and down trying to 'fix' it.