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Author Topic: Opinions please.
Dorado
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I've never used tung oil. All my wood working as been stained or painted, usually painted.

I always unstring my bows after I'm done shooting. It's not that difficult to restring.

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Samick Sage 35#
Bear Polar 59#@29

Posts: 277 | From: Wichita Falls, Tx | Registered: Dec 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
monterey
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The Massey finish is supposed to provide excellent protection from moisture.

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Monterey

Posts: 2933 | From: Colorado | Registered: Feb 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dorado
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I got to thinking about what y'all said about how hickory absorbs water. I installed some stained hickory cabinets a couple of years ago. The doors were flush so that they didn't protrude past the cabinet itself. A couple of months passed and the doors and drawers became hard to open. I thought that the house had settled. Given that these were in a room with an indoor hot tub I'm now thinking that the wood swelled and got stuck. Huh... Goes to show that you'll never know when a solution to a problem may reveal itself.

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Samick Sage 35#
Bear Polar 59#@29

Posts: 277 | From: Wichita Falls, Tx | Registered: Dec 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mad Max
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I had a house built and had all wood doors inside , after painting the doors they all swelled up.
half of them would not shut.
I was told to leave them alone, and after a month or so they all would close.

latex paint

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"nothing ventured ,nothing gained"

Posts: 1830 | From: Mississippi | Registered: Oct 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
fujimo
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so heres my take on it,
Hickory is an awesome and oft underestimated bow wood- it makes for great bow backings, and in my opinion is the best beginner board bow wood- its forgiving, its tough, its readily available and its very affordable.
However [Big Grin] it is a wood where its tension properties exceed its compression qualities.

and a primary rule in wooden bow building is to build what the wood is telling you, not always what you want to build.
your bow design should match your wood specie.
Hickory likes to be wide and have a flat belly, this is in order to help the compression weakness of the hickory, now you can do a few things to mitigate that, you can trap the back, and heat treat the belly, and it will make an awesome bow. but if i hade a piece of hickory i would build it 1.75 to 2" wide for half the limb or more then taper to the tips, with a perfectly flat belly.
Quite different from an ELB's dimensions!
now there will be some awesome bowyers on here that will have built very successful ELB's from hickory- this is just my take- to work with the wood, rather than against it, especially for a first bow.

now a hickory back and say an ipe belly makes for an awesome ELB- done a few of them.
Hickory and osage board is another, hickory and yew board- if you can get it!
and there are many other good compression strong woods out there too!

IPE can be found at most lumber yards, its sold as decking( Brazillian Walnut), or get hold of decking supply places, or specialty lumber supply places.
oh and with Ipe and yew especially wear a good respirator- it can create a mild allergic reaction!

good luck! [Smile]

Posts: 3203 | From: Queen Charlotte Islands, B.C. Canada | Registered: Oct 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
fujimo
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there was a fella on here that was offering ipe/hickory kits.
someone will remember him!
for a HBI ELB, make it 1.25" wide at the fade, tapering to 1/2" tips, (Down to 3/8" as you acquire more skill), keep it long, and bend thru the handle.
1" wide in the handle, but it will be slightly deeper than the rest of the bow, even if it is a bending riser, just to allow for the narrower handle area.
nice long fades each about 2" long, riser 4 to 5" long depending on your hand size.
overall length about 68".
you can crown the belly like an elb, or flat , just go with what you want!

you can glue in a wee bit of reflex if you want- or not!.
easy to make a caul for doing it- a piece of 2x6 lumber- nice and straight, some old bicycle tubes......

Posts: 3203 | From: Queen Charlotte Islands, B.C. Canada | Registered: Oct 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dorado
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quote:
Originally posted by Mad Max:
I had a house built and had all wood doors inside , after painting the doors they all swelled up.
half of them would not shut.
I was told to leave them alone, and after a month or so they all would close.

latex paint

I can't tell you how many doors I've painted. With latex. Never had that problem. They must have thinned the paint too much. I usually removed the doors and set them outside or in the garage to dry after painting for a day or so before reinstalling them. Always went back on without any fuss.

Like I said earlier, I think that the "U-finish" bow is what I'll start with. From there I can experiment with inlaying horn tips and other things as well as having a bow that's ready to use fairly quickly and inexpensively. I'm also keeping my eyes open for an Osage stave. If I can find one for a reasonable price then I think that'd be my best bet. I know that they supposedly grow around here but I've never seen one. I'll keep looking for one and if I do find one that's straight and large enough, I'll see about harvesting it.

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Samick Sage 35#
Bear Polar 59#@29

Posts: 277 | From: Wichita Falls, Tx | Registered: Dec 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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