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» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » The Bowyer's Bench » Wanna Make a Straight (Hill?) Longbow (Page 2)

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Author Topic: Wanna Make a Straight (Hill?) Longbow
Yellowwood
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I dont want to put out the wrong info ,but in graffs book he does use a power lams he didnt state it tell later in the book he didnt list the wedges or power lams tell deep in the book he also uses non standard lams for the upper limbs grinding them by hand using sanding stix from standard lams , he also uses pine boards for the form saying there more stable then ply wood I never herd that before !
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monterey
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JMO, but with such a steep taper a power lam probably isn't necessary. I started one out to build 1.5 at the fades and 5/16 at the tips with total .002 taper but the lay up squirmmed so much in the form that it ended up at 1.125 at the fades. That bow has taken some set at the fades. Still a shootable bow but it could have been better!

And again, JMO, but with that much taper a tip wedge might keep it from being more whip tipped than desired.

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Monterey

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Yellowwood
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He had another recepe in there for a Hill style follow bow strait limb 1.25 fade to 0.75in. ,10 in. out from the tips then to 3/8 , that one had a total taper of 0.002 said it took 5/8 in. set. One fade made longer & the riser set 1 in. off center said it had little shock !
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arachnid
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So I went ahead and built a straight longbow. 66" long, 1 1/8" wide, drawing 34#@28", 15" riser, 0.006" total taper. BUT, I didn`t even got to shoot it once. I made a string and pulled the bow a few times and then CRACK- I got a little de-lam under the lower fade (between the first and second lams):

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other side
https://scontent.fsdv2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/26804393_10210711589016817_3493276792687846925_n.jpg?oh=e3d76d8c5cde3bfa2ceccc79f5ebdbad&oe=5AEAB23A

I used enough glue, had good glue lines. My guess is that it`s a design flaw since it`s probably bending too much near the fade. Might be too short of a fade OR I should have used a power lam.

I`ll be greatful if you guys give me some input and opinions on what do you think went wrong.
If it`s fixable- I`d like to save it.
And at any case- what to do differently the next time around.

Thanks
Dor

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Bvas
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I would say fade thickness was definitely a contributing factor. I try to follow close to kenny’s rule.
1/16”@1” and 1/8”@2”. And the the ends of your fades should be THINNER THAN PAPER. You should be able to hold the riser up to a light and see daylight thru the tips of the fades.

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Some hunt to survive; some survive to hunt

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kennym
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I’d agree with Brad and not sure how or if you can fix it.

How much total taper in limbs?

Might wick some CA in there if no lams or riser broke but need something to help prevent same routine again.

On one of my test bows I tapered a pc of .050 glass and glued on belly out past the fades just like an overlay with smooth on . Still have bow and have hunted a lot with it with no probs but nothing was broke when I did it. Just testing....

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Stay sharp, Kenny.

https://www.kennysarchery.com/

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arachnid
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limbs have 0.006" total taper. The bend seem good and with no hinge pastthe fades.

I thought of trying to dab some CA glue in the problem area and the wrap it wround with fiberglass cloth soaked in epoxy.

Thoughts?

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monterey
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The lam running up the ramp is thickish. There may not have been enough pressure to squeeze it down tight to the ramps. This can be a problem with air hose or rubber bands.

My lams running up the ramps are thin. Sometimes only the glass.

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Monterey

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arachnid
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quote:
Originally posted by monterey:
The lam running up the ramp is thickish. There may not have been enough pressure to squeeze it down tight to the ramps. This can be a problem with air hose or rubber bands.

My lams running up the ramps are thin. Sometimes only the glass.

That's why I also used claps on the ramps. The lams on the ramp are a bit thick then I usually make'm but they're glued up tight. The problem is with the middle lam on the back of the riser.
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kennym
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I can’t really tell where the glue fail is from pic but if it is up where the fades are a half inch thick, then the glass cloth and resin is what I’d do....

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Stay sharp, Kenny.

https://www.kennysarchery.com/

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monterey
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I can't really see it either. If you plan to reduce the width any, it might dissapear or at least show as only a thick glue joint.

Do you have any pics of the clamping during glue up?

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Monterey

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arachnid
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I don`t have any pics of the glue up. I thought it`ll be a walk in the park... but I guess there`s a learning curve even in straight bows.

What I`ll do is this-
Put CA glue in the gap.
Make the "glass belly overlays" Kenny suggested (I guess it`s ment to keep the bent away from the fades)
Then I`ll wrap it with glass cloth and resin.

It might be too much but I`ll try everything.

Net time, I`ll make a longer riser with longer fades and use a power lam.

Thoughs?

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algstick
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I have built a few of these types of bows now and am certainly no expert, but one thing i have learned is they are really tough to keep the string tracking down the middle and at the same time get the tiller right. be sure to lay out the width a bit wider than you intend and work down from there watching the string alignment as you go. you need some extra width to work with to correct, it can be a real bear to deal with.
With the narrow limb (1 1/8" or less at fadeout and 3/8" or less at the nock) hill style bow you need .007 to .008" total taper depending on the length, shorter bow more taper. 15" or less riser.
also, it is much easier to put the riser on top of all of the laminations and only run the belly fiberglass up the back of the riser.
good luck

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