posted
Ron, this is the sharpest broadhead I've ever owned, including replacable blades. eclipse 145. Now a tad lighter since I've narrowed it a smidge, and filed a bit of the back tip-metal off.
thanks a ton
-------------------- 77# @ 29.5 r/d longbow homer 80# @ 29.5 GN super Ghost Posts: 1106 | From: Finally back in wyo!!! | Registered: Jun 2008
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This one I took off the single bevel in just the front, as the Good Doctor thoughtt it might eliminate skipping on side impacts. BUT, I left the rest single bevel front to back, which takes removing ALOT of metal before getting it sharp.
Ron, how fast will that super rough stone wear out? It takes a hundred or more passes to get these heads down to a single bevel all the way through all three layers of steel. Worried about dishing out the rough stone before its time. But, I hate to file it becasue of my own inability to hold a consistent edge.
Thanks again, you won't believe how relieved I was when this thing came off the cardboard and I was honestly a bit scared to 'test' it.
Dan
-------------------- 77# @ 29.5 r/d longbow homer 80# @ 29.5 GN super Ghost Posts: 1106 | From: Finally back in wyo!!! | Registered: Jun 2008
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-------------------- Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver. Wilderness Custom Arrows Posts: 6778 | From: oregon | Registered: Nov 2005
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I did a new one... and This is the new sharpest head I own. I left this one as a single bevel all the way to the tip. You can see how much metal you (I) have to take off to get an Eclipse to be a single bevel all the way through all three levels of steel on the tip. It left a little ridge where it goes from three layers to two...can't figure out how else to do it, and have it be a single bevel, other than filing the layer off, as in the first pic. Look at all those shavings on the table below it! I think I have stropped this head (cardboard), but I am not sure if its "that" good, or if its been stropped long enough. Anyway, thanks for indulging me!
Looking at that second picture (sorry its a bit blurry) You can see that maybe I still have a slightly different angle at the very edge of the tip of the portion that has three layers... hmmm
man, Ron, I can see how you got addicted to this. Having sharp things around the house iz fun!
Dan
-------------------- 77# @ 29.5 r/d longbow homer 80# @ 29.5 GN super Ghost Posts: 1106 | From: Finally back in wyo!!! | Registered: Jun 2008
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posted
A true single bevel would be single bevel all the way to the tip, but that can't be done with three laminations of steel at the tip without filing a shoulder/offset into the blade where the triple laminations start. With any blade of that construction, the first quarter or so is going to be double bevel.
Posts: 5854 | From: Wisconsin | Registered: Feb 2004
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posted
Orion, almost true...the the two bottom pictures are a true single bevel all the way to the tip, with three layers of steel on the tip. nothing is filed on the offside. only on one side. I have since this pic got the angle to be consistent all the way up and down, front to back. And KME sharp. A Single bevel head, with 3 layers of steel on the tip.
-------------------- 77# @ 29.5 r/d longbow homer 80# @ 29.5 GN super Ghost Posts: 1106 | From: Finally back in wyo!!! | Registered: Jun 2008
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Does a sharp rough edge, one sharpened with a file for instance, 'feel' (finger wise) sharper than a sharper finely polished smooth edge?
-------------------- 77# @ 29.5 r/d longbow homer 80# @ 29.5 GN super Ghost Posts: 1106 | From: Finally back in wyo!!! | Registered: Jun 2008
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Holy Smokes, that took a lot of work! Grinding through all three layers... WOW! Can't believe that you haven't worn that stone out already. The X-coarse silicon carbide stone is for heavy grinding but, it's included in the kit for occasional use when a sharpening a very dull knife. I'll send you a couple more, looks like you're gonna need them.
A coarse sharp edge can sometimes feel like it's sharper than a polished edge. The smooth feel can be deceiving at times. There is no mistaking the level of sharpness of a truly surgically sharp edge though. It just jumps out at you as soon as you even lightly touch it. The hair on your neck will raise, your jaw will drop, and there's often a involuntary, and very softly spoken "OMG". The blade just screams- "DON'T EVEN TOUCH ME"! To be honest, most of us will rarely achieve this level of sharpness on a blade of any kind.
Shaving is a relative and sometimes misleading test. To some extent on body hair, fine hair is tougher to shave than heavy hair and, short hair is tougher to shave than longer hair.
Now load and clear for everyone:
NEVER try to shave your face with a broadhead!!!! It is even more dangerous than it sounds.
My brother Mike recently came up with a pretty cool (and much safer) sharpness test- Get a turkey feather and moving the blade from the base end of the feather towards the tip and well out away from the quill, see if you can trim some "hairs" off the very edge of it.
Close to the quill, it will be fairly easy but, the farther you move away from the quill, the sharper the blade needs to be to keep cutting the hairs. Likewise, the hairs at the base end of the feather are easier to cut than those near the tip. When you can trim a nice clean line off the very outside edge near the tip end, you know you have a terrifyingly sharp blade.
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