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» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » PowWow » help making broadheads

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Author Topic: help making broadheads
JDP12
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Hey all- I'm interested in making my own broadheads, however I have some questions.

What type of steel is best to use?
What type of method is best to join the blade to the field point or ferrule?- Braze, solder, et cetera?

Thanks

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-JDP-

Posts: 40 | From: Southeast Wisconsin | Registered: Jul 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
owlbait
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Check the how to forum. RGK may have a post on there or do a search.
Good luck.

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Advice from The Buck:"Only little girls shoot spikers!"

Posts: 6321 | From: Hesperia, Mi | Registered: Dec 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
owlbait
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Sorry. See he has a knife build on there. I know he has made and shown photos of his broadheads. I have one!

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Advice from The Buck:"Only little girls shoot spikers!"

Posts: 6321 | From: Hesperia, Mi | Registered: Dec 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Owlmagnet
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"The Bower's Craft", an excellent book by the late Jay Massey, has a section on building broadheads out of field points and pieces of banding metal. He joined the blade to the ferrule by drilling a hole through them and using a small nail to "brad" or rivet them together. See pages 123-126. Good luck.
Posts: 140 | From: Southen Arizona | Registered: Jan 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
saltwatertom
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For the steel, try old used up files, some good steel in those! You may need a forge to work them tho, and some blacksmithing skills.

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"There is always luck about, for those willing to look for it"

Posts: 338 | From: Homer, Alaska | Registered: Feb 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
sagebrush
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You can also use old circular saw blades. Gary
Posts: 816 | From: Utah | Registered: Jan 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JDP12
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OK- but would I have to heat treat old circular saw blades?

Also could there be a potential problem because that steel has already been tempered and such?

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-JDP-

Posts: 40 | From: Southeast Wisconsin | Registered: Jul 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
frank bullitt
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Well, in todays cheap, manufacturing industry, China, alot of blade materials are only hardened or tempered on the cutting edge. I have used banding steel with field points set with J.B. weld withe good results. Probably wouldn't hold up to bricks, but I wasn't shootin' to kill a brick. It worked for Jay on Moose, so it was good enough for my Midwest whitetails. Go to the knife forum and ask, those guys are a world of knowledge. Good Shootin, Steve
Posts: 1581 | From: mighty wabash river,in. | Registered: Aug 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JDP12
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ok cool.

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-JDP-

Posts: 40 | From: Southeast Wisconsin | Registered: Jul 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JDP12
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just bumping this up to the top...

what kind of joining method would you use to join the blade to the ferrule? Soldering? If so, what type of solder?

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-JDP-

Posts: 40 | From: Southeast Wisconsin | Registered: Jul 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Slimpikins
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i just took an old plumbing saw blade and some 100 grain glue on field tips and had my dad tig weld the blade to the field point after grinding the shoulder down just a bit. they look like this.

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the one on the right is a four blade head with two small bleeders.

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KyleAllen
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nothing cheap about only the cutting edge being tempered. That just allows the blade to flex slightly rather than shattering and killing you [knothead]

I have had goood luck using circular saw blades but you will have to temper them. I wouldnt advise using metal that is already tempered. Much harder to cut to shape.

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JDP12
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OK

did you find those blades to be too thick? THe ones I got seem fairly thick, I'm going to try and find some thinner ones

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-JDP-

Posts: 40 | From: Southeast Wisconsin | Registered: Jul 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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