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"The Bower's Craft", an excellent book by the late Jay Massey, has a section on building broadheads out of field points and pieces of banding metal. He joined the blade to the ferrule by drilling a hole through them and using a small nail to "brad" or rivet them together. See pages 123-126. Good luck.
Posts: 140 | From: Southen Arizona | Registered: Jan 2009
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For the steel, try old used up files, some good steel in those! You may need a forge to work them tho, and some blacksmithing skills.
-------------------- "There is always luck about, for those willing to look for it" Posts: 338 | From: Homer, Alaska | Registered: Feb 2007
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Well, in todays cheap, manufacturing industry, China, alot of blade materials are only hardened or tempered on the cutting edge. I have used banding steel with field points set with J.B. weld withe good results. Probably wouldn't hold up to bricks, but I wasn't shootin' to kill a brick. It worked for Jay on Moose, so it was good enough for my Midwest whitetails. Go to the knife forum and ask, those guys are a world of knowledge. Good Shootin, Steve
Posts: 1581 | From: mighty wabash river,in. | Registered: Aug 2008
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i just took an old plumbing saw blade and some 100 grain glue on field tips and had my dad tig weld the blade to the field point after grinding the shoulder down just a bit. they look like this.
the one on the right is a four blade head with two small bleeders.
Posts: 171 | From: Rock Hill, South Carolina | Registered: Feb 2005
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nothing cheap about only the cutting edge being tempered. That just allows the blade to flex slightly rather than shattering and killing you
I have had goood luck using circular saw blades but you will have to temper them. I wouldnt advise using metal that is already tempered. Much harder to cut to shape.
Posts: 481 | From: East Texas | Registered: Aug 2006
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