bofish, you haven't kept up with wood shaft prices in the last few years ...Van
-------------------- Retired USAF (1966 - 1989) Retired DoD Civilian (1989 - 2009) And drawing Social Security! I love this country ;-) Posts: 5696 | From: Live Oak, Texas | Registered: Mar 2003
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quote:Originally posted by Follower: Thats crazy. Even if you could keep the shaft straight - I can't believe there is any strength in that joint.
In the old days - when you broke a wood arrow - you enjoyed the smell of fresh cedar and gave the feathered end of the the shaft a proper burial by sending it skyward!
There's something strangely satisfying about watching a broken arrow disappear into the wild blue yonder! There's a 200 acre pasture behind my house that is the final resting place of a couple dozen!
-------------------- TGMM Family of the Bow
My Father's bow rack is the sky. Posts: 1089 | From: Oklahoma | Registered: Jul 2010
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posted
149 American dollars?? You know how many dozen shafts I can buy with that? (Lets not forget the extra$ for UPS!) No way in heck.
Posts: 252 | From: Canandaigua, NY | Registered: Jul 2004
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posted
I tried that exact concept about 8 years ago. Tapered a drill bit and made some jigs. Yes it will work, but getting the alignment perfect is a chore, and not enough glue surface to make it safe.
I did rig up a simple scarf joint jig that does work, very well. Even tested it against cement blocks with no joint failures. It requires a lot more glue area than this thing.
-------------------- "You must learn from the mistakes of others. You can't possibly live long enough to make them all yourself." Posts: 449 | From: Iowa | Registered: Jun 2003
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Is it cheaper than a plastic surgeon? Don't do it.Just buy a new shaft and spend time crow dipping and cresting.A prosthetic bow arm would cost a fortune.
-------------------- Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a difference in the world, but the Marines don’t have that problem. —President Ronald Reagan Posts: 7953 | From: NJ to GA back to NJ =Lost ;) | Registered: Sep 2009
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bofish, not sure when. Started happening a few years ago and then they added some kind of tax on shafts. If I had 300 shafts I probably wouldn't do as much fixing as I do...Van
-------------------- Retired USAF (1966 - 1989) Retired DoD Civilian (1989 - 2009) And drawing Social Security! I love this country ;-) Posts: 5696 | From: Live Oak, Texas | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
This jig works great, if you do your part. Like every jig, it takes a little fiddling around to get it. Although I would not repair an arrow in the mid section, it is great to use. Although, the guy who designed it uses repaired arrows like this all the time and he repairs em all over the shaft. It makes buying top of the line wood arrows so much more econimical in the long run. If you use a black locust footing, your cedars will become much tougher. Compared to a 4 wing-footing, my cedar arrows footed with a footing like this behind the point makes the ferrule of field points split open if I hit something real hard like a steel post or concrete block.I still have 2 doz custom cedar arrows from 1999 out of a 3 doz. lot and 20 of the 24 carry a locust footing behind the point. They're as good as ever. I have the complete jig here in my home with all accessories. The lineup is easy, because there is a V-groove alignment in the tool. I field tested that tool and incorporated my ideas in the final design. I had it at Cloverdale at the kids bow give-away,too. The repair joint is much stronger than any other method. Being an engineer I calculated a lot of joints. And you can order it direct from DiFis Engineering if you want one, saving you some retail markup. Me and my Dad and some friends are using that repair method for more than 10 years. If you have a lathe you can just order the conical drill,too. Everything is available seperate as well. Van/TX method also work, but if you hit something real hard, these footing tend to splinter. The footing joint here, if it breaks, breaks clear like a normal shaft behind the point, allowing for another repair.
Posts: 678 | From: Boonville,Indiana | Registered: Feb 2005
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Cool, but my single splice footings break right behind the point where the original arrows break. I've re-footed some more that twice and they always break behind the point. That's a good thing. When I run out of reparrows (I've even single spliced footed some of them) or get tired of single spliced process I may get one of those conical drills. Thanks for the info ...Van
-------------------- Retired USAF (1966 - 1989) Retired DoD Civilian (1989 - 2009) And drawing Social Security! I love this country ;-) Posts: 5696 | From: Live Oak, Texas | Registered: Mar 2003
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Been sitting on my hands here for a while, since I make and sell Reparrow footings...
Tecum-tha, you say you have been using this repair method for 10 years or so. Were you using tooling you made yourself?
Another issue that will come up with time is that a tapered drill wears unevenly so that the taper changes. The point end of the drill cuts the full depth of the hole with every use. The rest of the taper of the drill cuts proportionally less depth depending on its position on the taper, so that the large end of the taper cuts very little depth of the hole each time.
The result is that the small part of the taper wears faster and changes the angle.
This may never happen with the small number of times the Arrow-Fix owner will repair arrows. But if the tool is not used enough to worry about wear, will it pay for itself.
Van, as for using a conical drill without the fixture, you would find the shafts splitting even when the drill bit is new. When it begins to dull, think shattered shafts.
Also, Van, remember the first Reparrows with the square shoulders? That was the result of using a tapered drill to make a hole in the end of a piece of square hardwood. The drilled blank was then put between a matching tapered center and a normal but small wood lathe center in a metal lathe and the square was turned round for all but the last 1/8 inch or so.
I might have kept making the footings that way but for the fact that the drill wore unevenly, requiring frequent sharpening to restore the 5-degree taper. Of course I was making hundreds of them. Most Arrow-Fix users will not make anything like that many.
I note that the Arrow-Fix name was registered quite recently. "On Friday, May 21, 2010, a U.S. federal trademark registration was filed for ARROW-FIX. This trademark is owned by DiFis Engineering UG, Lange Furche 13, Fellbach 70736"
Jim
-------------------- "Reparrows save arrows!"
"But without faith it is impossible to please Him, for he that cometh to God must believe that he is and that He is a rewarder of them that diligently seek Him." Hebrews 11:6 Posts: 637 | From: Dexter, Kentucky | Registered: Mar 2004
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For someone that is building cane or bamboo arrows, that would be the ticket to do footed ends and nocks???????????
-------------------- Genesis 27:3 Now therefore take, I pray thee, thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and take me [some] venison
TGMM Family Of The Bow Posts: 2676 | From: virginia | Registered: Jan 2005
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quote:Originally posted by Van/TX: Cool, but my single splice footings break right behind the point where the original arrows break. I've re-footed some more that twice and they always break behind the point. That's a good thing.
That's my experience with the single point footings too (I'll say "Thanks" again for the idea Van )
Assuming an archer wants to do that kind of repair (and with arrow prices, repairs are a good thing) the options are buy that jig, or ~11 doz reparrows? I've been repairing every possible shaft for the last 8 years and I'm not close to 11 doz repairs.
It's nice to see the jig on the market!
-------------------- >>>-TGMM Family Of The Bow--> CT CE/FS Chief Instructor "Death is not the greatest loss in life. The greatest loss is what dies inside us while we live." - Norman Cousins Posts: 5053 | From: East Haddam, CT | Registered: Aug 2004
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