posted
Zwickey Delta, I prefer the 2 blade, a good strong affordable head that's long stood the test of time. You will have to sharpen these but that's part of archery craft too
-------------------- "We were arguing about brace-height tuning and then a fistmele broke out" Posts: 680 | From: Wisconsin | Registered: Dec 2006
| IP: Logged |
posted
yea i was thinking of using a two blade. i guess ted nudgget has one that he thinks is the best ever made. thanks for the info
Posts: 43 | From: new york | Registered: Oct 2009
| IP: Logged |
posted
In order to know how the broadhead will shoot; you have to shoot it. When you shoot it; it will dull.
So you have to learn how to sharpen it.
Zwickey 2 blade heads ( especially the bigger black diamond delta) are really a good place to start ( I have used them for for 30 years); because they sharpen easily with a little practice.
I use a 10 inch mill bastard file available at any hardware store.
You should put the broadheads on the arrows; then put them point down and spin the arrow.
Where the shaft meets the broadhead is where you look- the shaft should not wobble at all. *** this applies to ALL broadheads- they must spin true or they can hit everything but the target***
If it does - then you need to adjust it. I use a glue I can heat up over and over to glue the heads on - and it helps with getting the spin to true.
I use ferrule-tite glue; which is a hot melt glue. You can glue them onto wood arrow shafts; or onto aluminum screw in inserts; or to increase the weight of the head; steel screw in adapters.
Glue the heads on so that they are on a 90 degree angle from the string. I look down the arrow from the nock end of the arrow; and line up the blade with the side of the nock.
After they spin true- then shoot them into sand or into a target designed for broadhead use.
When your happy an arrow is shooting like you want it too- then get out the file.
First file off the tip; round it; or make it less pointy- because the tip can bend on bone.
Then start on the broadheads sides. The whole trick is to file off even amounts off each side. So file once; flip the head over and file again; and do that with both edges of the broadhead.
Once you get it shaving sharp; which takes me about 5 minutes a head; if you need to sharpen them on a hunting trip; you won't need electricity.
Fred Bear used to miss or kill a grouse; or shoot a stump; and sit down and file his broadheads sharp for use again.
NEVER for whatever reason shoot a broadhead that has just been shot; or is rusty etc; and is not shaving sharp. This is the biggest mistake that bowhunters make.
Broadheads do not kill by having a sponsor that is egotistical - they kill by cutting; and the better they cut: the better they work.
After you go to all the trouble of getting close to a deer or bear or elk etc- you want the broadhead to work for you; and that happens with sharpness.
It takes practice to get good at getting broadheads sharp; but traditional bowhunting is all about practice and effort and skill.
-------------------- THE VOICES HAVEN'T BOTHERED ME SINCE I STARTED POKING THEM WITH A Q-TIP. Posts: 2556 | From: North Fork , Idaho | Registered: Feb 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
Good idea to shoot the same as your practice point. 125gr field point shoots 125gr BH. IMO, 150gr for your setup will better penetrate. Find 150gr field points or add weight to your 125gr field points to 150gr. Add it easily enough in the shaft behind your screw-in insert.
-------------------- Buddy Bell
Trad is 60% mental & about 40% mental. Posts: 4460 | From: Texas | Registered: Oct 2007
| IP: Logged |
posted
I bought Magnus 125gr two blades, but after talking with more people around here I wish I went with the 150's.
Posts: 22 | From: gaylord michigan | Registered: Sep 2010
| IP: Logged |
UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!
Printer-friendly view of this topic
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
