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» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » PowWow » HH bug got me ... the saga and fun continues! (Page 575)

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Author Topic: HH bug got me ... the saga and fun continues!
Charlie Lamb
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It's absolutely one of Ron's bows.

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Hunt Sharp

Charlie

A Bowhunter's Tales

Posts: 9948 | From: Missouri | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
4BTradArchery
Trad Bowhunter
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Alright, I have been reading this thread for long enough and just have to have one. It does not hurt that I have some tax return money burning a hole in my pocket. Does the Toelke Super D count as a Hill style bow? What about a Sarrels Yukon (I have attached a link that shows a Yukon http://www.sarrelsarchery.com/LB76R.jpg)?
I already have a Toelke WHip and love it. I am looking at a Sarrels because I would like to have a bow built by a Texas bowyer.

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Luck is when preparation meets opportunity - Darryl Royal

Dance with the one that brung ya - Darryl Royal

Posts: 114 | From: Texas | Registered: Oct 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
tg2nd
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quote:
Originally posted by Overspined:
Tg2nd, could it be due to thinner glass?? I have a Miller split bamboo and it is straight until shot, then string follow, and straight again after a rest.

Measured my bows. Same thickness of the glass.
3 out of my 4 Hill bows have it. My Schultz doesn't have it. 3 out of my 4 self built bows have it.
Really would like to know.

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German by birth, Bavarian by the grace of god

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Overspined
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Funny you say that tg2nd! My buddy started building hobby bows on a straight form and all end up a 1/2" string follow. They shoot sweet, but I have no idea why. He asked me the same question and I have no answer as I am not a bowyer. This does not happen with any Hill Archery or Northern Mist bow I have.

Cool Bow Pat!!
I don't know if that Sturgis bow is FF compatible! No wedge or limb tip overlays. I know guys shoot FF from self bows but I wouldn't try it.

Posts: 1687 | From: Michigan | Registered: Jun 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Charlie Lamb
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Since all I can do is make a guess, I'd have to say that the core is Osage, though it could be yew... don't have any idea what aged Tamarack looks like.

From looking at the serial number I'd say '84... like you.

The bow wasn't built for FF. Not sure it was even around when the bow was built. I've never had a problem using FF type materials on non fast flight longbows.

The bow is a keeper for sure and a fine example of a Hill style longbow. They were known for being fairly quick and smooth shooting.

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Hunt Sharp

Charlie

A Bowhunter's Tales

Posts: 9948 | From: Missouri | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Charlie Lamb
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Ron and I became friends in the early days of his bow building. His favorite Howard Hill Redman had broken one extremely cold winter day and out of desperation (money was very tight)Ron made his own.

In those early days he used maple cores almost exclusively due to costs. My own experiences were with that era of Maulding longbows.

They were great shooters and especially in the heavy weights I shot in those days would smoke an arrow.
Ron experimented with tempering maple lams and it really seemed to help.

I'd recommend buying any Maulding bow you can get your hands on.

For what it's worth.... in the eighties, around the time that bow was made, I was involved in a roll over auto accident and broke my neck.
Ron had moved to Casper, Wyoming by that time and that's where I was in the hospital.

I spent the whole summer in the hospital (prognosis concerning me ever walking again was dubious)hundreds of miles from home and my pregnant wife.

Ron would come visit me a couple of times a week and bring real food, friendship and encouragement.
My opinion of the guy is that he's tops.

I've still got one of his brochures around here someplace.

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Hunt Sharp

Charlie

A Bowhunter's Tales

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Russ Clagett
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Fellow Hill bow enthusiasts........I am new to the Hill style bow thing and have a majorly new guy question.........

What is the little wood chip thingy on the side of the shelf for?

I see bows with them and without....and I can see no real reason for it......or am i missing something important?

help.......

Posts: 464 | From: Pflugerville, Texas | Registered: Nov 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Charlie Lamb
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Russ... that's just to extend the width of the shelf. Pretty common, but not all together needed.

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Hunt Sharp

Charlie

A Bowhunter's Tales

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Goshawkin
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MT longbow,Nice bow, I saw it on the auction site.Almost was going to bid it,but I've got something else in the works.
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Russ Clagett
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Thanks Charlie!

It didn't make much sense to me so I had to ask...thinking of taking mine off....my shelf is plenty big...

Russ

Posts: 464 | From: Pflugerville, Texas | Registered: Nov 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
MT Longbow
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Thank Charlie for the insight and the comments, good story and I always like to hear about the person who built the bow I'm shooting, it's important to me for some reason....goofy I guess but knowing he was such a good guy and knowing the story a little bit gives me more connection with the bow I am carrying.


Now I'd like to hear from Denny on his old bow.......the history behind it.

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Craig Ekins;
70" -60LB "Robin Hood",string follow #47 of 50. LE
68" -70Lb Redman, string follow all YEW. "Yewlogy"
68" -75Lb@28. 3 lam Boo. String Follow- "LegendStick"

Ron Maulding : 68" Big Horn , Boo and Osage. 78#@27.

David Miller: Old Tom

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pavan
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Russ, the little leather cookie was more important years ago when Howard Hill would cut his arrow rests barely to the center of the arrow and it became a tradition. I have had bows that did need the shelf extension as well. Now days most do not, but it is still cool to have it.
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Widow's Son
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How accurate have ya'll found the poundage listed on the bows from HH archery? What I'm trying to say is if the bow is marked 50#@28" is this it's true draw weight? Also, my draw lenght is 27", how much poundage will I lose per inch if the bow is marked 50#@28"?
Maybe I'm getting older, LOL, I know I am, but I've found that I shoot better with a bow in the 45# to 48# range. Anything over that and I have to warm up first. When deer hunting warming up is not an option.
I've been looking at the in stock bows from HH and trying to find something that will fit me.

Ross

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1969 Bear Super Kodiak 45#
1966 Bear Kodiak 52#
2000 Black Widow MAII
46# at 28"
Roy Hall Navajo Stick, 64" Caddo 55#@28"

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David Mitchell
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HH bows seem to be all over the place on weight. Some claim they are right on as marked. I have never had one that was. All of the ones I have ordered have been 3-4# above marked weight. I have two that I got that were "previously loved" on the classifieds here--both from stabow (great guy to deal with) that are only about 1# heavy on my scale. A buddy has one that he got from Craig that is right on the money--his scale and mine read the same on the same bows. So I don't know.....I got one Hill used that was actually 6# heavier than marked weight. [dunno]
Posts: 2845 | From: Charleston, WV | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Overspined
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I have checked the past few Hills that I have had or ordered and I found them right on, and really, +/- 1 #?? Not significant or easy to discern via any scale unless you have a tiller stand with a scale that's calibrated. Plus, these are not certified scales... I found Northern Mist bows were 3# light almost every time. Makes them seem even smoother to draw huh? Which is more frustrating? Craig said to me a few months ago that he gets bows back on ocassion with this issue, and most times the weight is as marked. 6# I agree would be an issue! He said they absolutely want happy customers so if it's off, I would bet he'll fix it. If you check arrow speeds and you choose a bow 3# lighter and actually get it back at that, there is almost an imperceptible change. A couple fps. If anyone is worried, it might be good to err on the light side.??
Posts: 1687 | From: Michigan | Registered: Jun 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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