quote:I thought he was a flying squirrel, or maybe a fella carrying a couple of grocery bags.
Killy you kill me....
-------------------- We live in the present, we dream of the future, but we learn eternal truths from the past
When the deer are gone I will hunt mice, for I am a hunter. www.shrewbows.com Posts: 3859 | From: Potterville Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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-------------------- Long, long afterward, in an oak I found the arrow, still unbroke; And the song, from beginning to end, I found again in the heart of a friend.
~Longfellow
TGMM Family Of The Bow Posts: 15027 | From: Fibber McGee's Closet, VA | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Ok I am going to try this again as I got oven response, though it seemed like good advice. I have a new HHA bow that draws 50# at 28". My current arrows are 29-3/4" bop. They are tapered POC spined 55-59#. They seem to fly decent but I am sketical the 5.5" fletchings could compensate for poor spine. I am thing of going XX75 for a try. What do you suggest? How about Surewoods? I could shorten my arrows 1/4-1/2" and still be ok.
Posts: 269 | From: TX | Registered: May 2012
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quote:Originally posted by Brazos: Ok I am going to try this again as I got oven response, though it seemed like good advice. I have a new HHA bow that draws 50# at 28". My current arrows are 29-3/4" bop. They are tapered POC spined 55-59#. They seem to fly decent but I am sketical the 5.5" fletchings could compensate for poor spine. I am thing of going XX75 for a try. What do you suggest? How about Surewoods? I could shorten my arrows 1/4-1/2" and still be ok.
1916s with about 125 or 145 up front at that length or 2016 same length but more weight up front.
I shoot #52 spine 11/32 POC for my 49 @ 28 Dave Johnson with same arrow length with 125 up front. My 5" feather tips are on my shelf when braced at the 5 3/8 it likes. Going to 4" fletch.
-------------------- "You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear Posts: 3671 | From: Zoo City, NC | Registered: Aug 2010
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posted
Sorry for all the bad grammar in my above post. Wife was rushing me to come eat supper. I want to place an order tomorrow for new shafts and want to have my best possibility to get it correct. Any advice you have would be appreciated.
Posts: 269 | From: TX | Registered: May 2012
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posted
I wouldn't give up on the Surewoods, just order yourself a test kit of different spines. That way you'll be absolutely positive what spine works. You can probably get the 55-59 spined arrows to work well by using a 145 or even a 160 grain tip.
Also, try shooting one of your current arrows with the feathers wet and pressed down. If they are not what your bow needs, it will be readily apparent.
Posts: 1378 | From: The Dark Corner, SC | Registered: Oct 2006
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Just a suggestion...don't be in a hurry to order until your are relatively sure you know what you need.
Am I missing something here or did you not state what your actual (verified) draw length is from the throat of your nock to the back of the arrow taper where your point is glued on. (BOP)
That could be the most valuable and critical component of your arrow selection. There is a metric ton of info around here that can and will steer you in the right direction.
The hill style longbow is a different animal as compared to many popular bows out there and arrow selection can be a tad different due in part to how far the riser is cut in relation to "center" and the energy it pours into the arrow upon release.
I have had some success with Stu Millers Spine Calculator in that it addresses some major differences in bow configuration.
If you have a HHA hill it is probably marked on average of 3# less than actual at any given draw length. I am not familiar with Dave Johnson's bows but do shoot a Sunset Hill and a David Miller - both bamboo cored and uniquely different animals.
I am no expert but many that haunt this thread have walked your trail and can give you some good insight based on prior experience.
If you'd like to try woodies I believe Snag will send you a starter kit of differently spined arrows. It'll give you a place to start.
Glad to help you if I can..PM me and I'll give it a try.
-------------------- Michigan Longbow Association Posts: 1303 | From: Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
I am shooting a HHA longbow. Marked at 50# at 28". My current arrows are 29-3/4" from the throat of nock to BOP. They are tapered POC shafts spined at 55-59#. I am currently using 125gr points. These are some arrows I have had around as I wanted to get a feel for my new bow before ordering arrows. I have been on the fence on whether to order some XX75's or maybe some Surewoods. Just wanted to get some input on my most likely spine choices based on your knowledge. I can always fine tune with point weight. I also have room to shorten my arrow to 29-1/4" for fine tuning. My current bow string is a standard HHA string w/ beaver string silencers. My inclination for Surewoods would be to go with the same spine of 55-59# and make weaker if needed with additional point weight. No clue on XX75's other then a previous suggestion of 1916's.
Posts: 269 | From: TX | Registered: May 2012
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posted
If you are willing to change point weights, try heavier points with those 55-59's. They will weaken to a point where they will shoot fine. This would be cheaper than buying new shafts. After this tuning, you can buy new shafts.
Posts: 285 | From: Huntingdon, PA | Registered: Jan 2004
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posted
OK..you are shooting an HHA longbow and it is probably pulling 53# - 54# at 28".
Your arrows are 29.75 BOP. What is your actual draw length?
No offense intended but it is difficult to see your actual draw with an appropriate "heel down" grip being 29.75 inches.
Background: When I shot recurves (since the late 60s) and in recent years shooting "high wrist" longbows, my BOP was around 31".
When I switched to the Hill Style just over one ago...here on this thread...I began shooting a straight gripped HHA Half Breed longbow. I was told my draw length would drop significantly by Nate Steen. I thought he was nuts! He was dead nuts on and I now consistently draw a tad under 27". That is 4" difference and that will make a world of difference in what arrow you can shoot.
He and I are big guys with long arms and huge hands.
My suggestion to you is to begin at the beginning....
Take an arrow and mark it at 1/2" increments. While actually shooting, have a bystander witness your actual BOP but before you do this, understand that the "form" for shooting will morph over time as you learn the heel down grip in harmony with a consistent bow arm bent slightly at the elbow (not to emulate Howard...it happens naturally)
Don't order arrows until you can nail down the actual spine and length needed based on your known repeatable draw length and the actual measured weight you are pulling at that draw.
I shoot Surewoods 90% of the time and XX75s occasionally. Any arrow will fit the bill if it is compatible with your draw, your bow (centershot), and weight you are pulling at your draw.
hope this helps...I learned it all here in this great thread...
Good luck Brazos!
-------------------- Michigan Longbow Association Posts: 1303 | From: Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
I will go ahead and post this as we can't have the HH thread on the second page. I went ahead and ordered some 2016 XX75's. I also ordered a verity of different point weights. I did verify my minimum arrow length needs to be 29-1/4". That gives me a 1/2" + out past my knuckles. I was on the fence on whether to order 1916s. I went with the 2016s because I also have a Wesley Special that is 60# @ 29" (the new HHA bow I am building the arrows for is 50# @ 28"). I am currently using the arrows I had for my Wesley Spec. They seem to both shoot the same arrow decently well. I am going to attempt to see if I can tune both bows to the same arrow. With the XX75's I theoretically could just screw in a different weight head to tune the spine towards one bow or the other. If it doesn't work hopefully one of the bows can be tuned to the arrow. I really like woods but when you can buy XX75's for $30/doz and get the convenience of a screw in head I figured I would give it a shot. Thanks for the advice.
Posts: 269 | From: TX | Registered: May 2012
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posted
With 2016s you have the option of experimenting with a wider varity of screw in target points, so you can shoot heavier broadheads if you need to out of the lighter bow.
Posts: 2552 | From: Iowa | Registered: Oct 2009
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