posted
The head that Schulz had was called the Hunters Head. It was a good head but the ferrule was an oddball size, 21/64. I shot a buck once using a 90# bow and the old Sweetland compressed cedar forgewoods. The arrow went through him like a hot knife through butter. It must have stopped somewhere in the next County...never did find that arrow..
I heard that 3 Rivers bought the rights to the Hunters Head...maybe we'll see it again someday.
-------------------- We live in the present, we dream of the future, but we learn eternal truths from the past
When the deer are gone I will hunt mice, for I am a hunter. www.shrewbows.com Posts: 3860 | From: Potterville Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
I just got off the phone with John Lee and ask him about the Hunters Head. John said that he designed the head for Schultz. He confirmed that 3 Rivers bought the rights to the head from the Kurts brothers who were the ones that were making it.
Jerry Hill made a version of the H Hill head some years ago. It was stainless steel and weighed 190gr. Each head came in an individual plastic bag and they came shaving sharp. It was a good head but I think costly to have made.
-------------------- We live in the present, we dream of the future, but we learn eternal truths from the past
When the deer are gone I will hunt mice, for I am a hunter. www.shrewbows.com Posts: 3860 | From: Potterville Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Ron... I always thought Jerry's design of his uncles broadhead was great. I liked it better than Howards. I don't have both in hand at the moment, but if memory serves Jerry's was slightly larger.
The Hunter's Head is one super penetrating broadhead. My experience matches yours exactly.
posted
I think you're right Charlie about Jerrys head being a little wider...not much but just enough to make it was easier to get by the ferrule to touch up the edge.
I shot a running Caribou with Jerrys head. It was a 35yd running shot quartering away with an 80# bow. It cut the next to last rib and buried in the off shoulder. You could see a growing red spot on his side and he piled up in about 30yd's.
I was hunting with Jerry Brumm of Great Northern who witnessed the shot. My cedars were full dipped white with white fletching. Watching the arch of that white arrow and the running caribou come together was one of the prettiest shots I've ever made... We had a video camera with us but it was in the pack...
-------------------- We live in the present, we dream of the future, but we learn eternal truths from the past
When the deer are gone I will hunt mice, for I am a hunter. www.shrewbows.com Posts: 3860 | From: Potterville Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Padded loop skinny strings. Even on self bows. Archers are raving about them left and right. Padded out to 16 strands has any one seen one cut into the glass on there bows? Some people say they shorten the "life" of the bow. What is that about.
Posts: 970 | From: New Hampshire | Registered: Dec 2008
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posted
Back then I was using Sherwin Williams Opex production lacquer, I've still got some gallon cans of it out in the shop..
-------------------- We live in the present, we dream of the future, but we learn eternal truths from the past
When the deer are gone I will hunt mice, for I am a hunter. www.shrewbows.com Posts: 3860 | From: Potterville Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
One point on Hill broadheads, I shoot single bevel Hills that are ground from unhoned blades and when I sharpen them I take what ever part of the ferrule off with a file that gets in the way of my blade angle. It works just the same with the standard double bevel Hill heads. Don't let ferrule control the sharpening angle, you control the ferrule with your file, it is thick and soft and you will not loose much strength by removing material from that part anyway. I am doing this from my car, how traditional is that? Time to hit the road again.
Posts: 2556 | From: Iowa | Registered: Oct 2009
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posted
Weighing in on the basic difference between say the "Tembo" model and the Big Five. The Tembo is a laination up the riser, with a total of 3 laminations. The Big Five is ussually 4 laminations laminated to the back of riser. The lamination up the riser allows smoother draw as the lamination compresses a little at full draw, the 4 lamination on back makes the limb come to terms quicker and the feeling of a little stack by comparison. Now I have had 4 lamination Tembo with one lamination up the riser and 3 lamination on back of riser in a Big Five. The four lamination Tembo was still smooth on the draw. The 3 lamination Big Five still had the feeling of a little more build up at or just before full draw. I will say the Tembo has always a smoother cast and cast an arrow further without the parabolic flight characteristic of the Big Five. I believe the difference to be the Tembo makes the riser flex ever so slightly, allowing the bow feel like it has a longer limb and contributes to the overall smoothness in bow performance. The Big Five because the laminations on the back of riser makes the limb shorter in comparison to the Tembo, both bows the same length and same poundage. The Big Five will usually send the same arrow out a little faster. I am talking heavy draw weight bows, there is just sutle differences,hardly percieveable to most. My preference for longer shots would be the Tembo, my preference in close say to 20-25 yards and fast shooting is the Big Five. I find shooting the Tembo, I will take a little more time at full draw, making sure of a clean release and taking advantage of shooting form. The Big Five is quick shooting at close range at odd angles, at moving targets, example while pheasant hunting and chasing down rabbits. It becomes a matter of preference. For me the most critical part is the handle. I like a straight grip that is narrow and deep enough to fill my hand, no sharp knife edge on the belly side of the grip. The grip makes more of a difference in shooting and cast, accuracy for me than the differences between 3,4 or more laminations. Well there is my take on the differences, outside of the fack the thickness of each lamination compared to each other in the bow ill make more or less poundage even at the same core depth. Allow me to elaborate, example no.1 lamination on the back of bowhas a 3/16ths core depth at fadeout, lamination no.2 has a depth of 1/8th, and lamination no.3 has a depth of 1/16th, this is before taper starts. Now example no.2 lamination on back has a core depth of 1/8th as do the other 2 laminations, both bows have the same overall taper to the lim. Bow no.1 will be less draw weight as compared to bow No.2. Bow no. 1 will be a lot softer on release and lacking in performance compare to bow no.2. If you have any doubts, spend the time to locate two similar bows as described(they are out there) and compare the results for yourself. I am sure this will spark some discussion. Later,Jacques
Posts: 246 | From: new hampshire | Registered: Sep 2011
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Sorry to change the subject.... Anyone here Kill a Mountain Lion with HH Bow. I have a Hand painted face of a Mountain Lion that is roughly 6"x6" and Im thinking of putting it on my version of a HH quiver. I guess what Im asking is anyone here who harvested a Mountain Lion interested in a Quiver like this....? Thank you all for your time and keeping this great thread alive....
-------------------- "Mike your friend In Traditional archery" (M.A.L.) www.mikesarcheryleather.com Leather Armguards,Quivers,and Accessories, Mike's Archery Leather "Rinehart 3D Target Dealer" "TGMM Family of the Bow" Posts: 3739 | From: Stockton California | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
As for Hill heads. Try this one out. I have a bunch of the large heads I ordered from Craig years ago without the aluminum ferrule. I can sharpen the heads and get them razor sharp! Before sharpening, I enlarge the hole for the pin to accept the screw that goes through the Magnus Stinger to hold the blade in place. I simply swap the Magnus blade for the sharpened large HILL blade creating a 3to1 ratio 140 grain broadhead in the process. I use for wild boar, deer, whatever I am hunting and it works great. I haven't had any problems on game, however pracice and shooting stumps and such, I have bent a few. I can straighten them with no tools and little effort and continue on. I have always thought Hill would have made a change to the ferrule by now if he was still around. Later,Jacques
Posts: 246 | From: new hampshire | Registered: Sep 2011
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Nate, quick question. I noticed in your post about the moose hunt that you talk about your point on distance of 60 yards. I have also heard John Schulz talk about this in his book as well. If a person shoots instinctive, how would they know what their "point on distance?" I have only heard this term used in Split Vision or Gap shooting.
Tom
-------------------- “Here we have a weapon of beauty and romance. He who shoots with a bow, puts his life’s energy into it." -Dr. Saxton Pope Posts: 280 | From: Dundee, MI | Registered: May 2007
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quote:Originally posted by Overspined: For strings, search for oliverstacy as a handle, it's josh sowersby (spell?).
NATE, come on, now is is the time to give your opinion about lam # and hill style bows! You too Pavan. Those who have played with it have an opinion. I wish I could build bows and experiment...
He already did several pages back like 10+. Oh and so did Howard and Schulz.
Don't expect Nate to let "any more cats out of the bag" like he has previously and so generously done in the past. Frankly I can't blame him for the way he was treated recently!
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Enjoy the flight of an arrow amongst Mother Nature's Glory!
Once one opens the mind to the plausible, the unbelievable becomes possible!
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Yours for better bowhunting, Kelly Posts: 1181 | From: Blue Grass, Iowa/Prentice, Wisconsin | Registered: Oct 2003
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We had a video camera with us but it was in the pack... ![[banghead]](graemlins/banghead.gif)
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