posted
There are a couple thing that you need to do when tuning is make sure that you have good form with out it, bare shaft or any other tuning is just that much harder by this I mean good release solid bow arm no death grip on bow follow through. also make sure that your string is settle in and you nock fit as tight. I had to learn this all over when I took up shooting a Traditional Bow.
-------------------- Pronghorn Longbows Compton Traditional Bowhunters Professional Bowhunters Society Member Posts: 1236 | From: Northeastern CA | Registered: Jul 2005
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posted
I will share what I've found for myself. Bareshaft testing = somewhat of a 'coarse tune', paper tuning = more of a 'fine tune' and it's very expedient in showing one just where things are spine-wise. Also, paper tuning has shown me I can have a horizontal tear from 3 things: too stiff in spine, or too weak in spine, or a dodgy release.
I recommend bareshaft tuning and paper tuning, they're both good tools to keep in your kit, but they are not easily won and I urge patience and practice with them to see those consistent established trends in arrow flight/impact patterns.
-------------------- "We were arguing about brace-height tuning and then a fistmele broke out" Posts: 680 | From: Wisconsin | Registered: Dec 2006
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posted
This might be obvious, but Ill say it. When paper tunning, I like to hold the bow vertical, no cant. This helps diagnose left/right/up/down tears to what is causing them.
-------------------- I'm not a "deer" hunter, I'm a bow hunter that occasionally shoots a deer. Posts: 247 | From: Michigan | Registered: Sep 2009
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posted
Seems like a lot of good info here. I appreciate all the responses. I have been using the Adcock method and have had some good results with it. I had been hearing a lot about the paper tuning method but could not see how it would be helpful with a longbow or recurve due to the increased paradox. Seems like it's really not an issue after all according to those who posted.
I have another question concerning arrow "forgiveness" but I'll start another thread about that.
Thanks again
Dave
Posts: 102 | From: Texas | Registered: Nov 2009
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posted
you can't go wrong either way, just have to learn your equipment and choose the best way for you
Posts: 145 | From: Oklahoma | Registered: Jun 2008
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quote:Originally posted by Jason R. Wesbrock: I agree with Jeff. Just because fletched arrows look like they're flying straight, doesn't mean they are. And just because arrows group, doesn't mean they're flying straight either. I paper tune and bare shaft tune. If done properly, both work just fine.
That is what I find. I do both to check. I have had bare shafts with HFOC fly great to my eye and POI. I even had decent broadhead flight. Then I started to do some paper tuning just to check and found they flew 1-2" out of line out to over 20 yd. I don’t see how that could be good for penetration at all. I then tuned some more with the paper to get near bullet holes from 20’ out. I can get a very little variation in paper tear from 15' to about 30' and then bullet holes after that with a decent release. My broadhead flighti s as good if not better on most shots and I think more forgiving.
I shoot carbon, and I think that makes a difference in how fast the arrow stops flexing. I also believe bow center cut makes a difference in how fast the arrow stops flexing. I know it makes a difference in how much it flexes.
I also shoot at a lot of different distances when I paper tune. If you only shoot at one you can be on the wrong flex of the arrow. If the arrow is way weak or stiff you could be seeing the over correction vs. the true tear. I like to start close. Sometimes, believe it or not, I start at 2'-3' from the tip to the paper. Then walk back and shoot. That basically gives me snap shots of the arrow flight as it travels. I find that to be very helpful.
-------------------- Firefly Long Bow James 4:14 60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17 Michigan Longbow Association Posts: 3636 | From: Kalamazoo, MI | Registered: Jan 2009
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posted
I am going to give this a try. For you experts, when paper tuning do you tune for a slight nock high tear? I have always been told that slight nock high is more forgiving and have always bareshafted to get my bare shafts to impact just below the fletched shafts. Is this correct.
Posts: 78 | From: Texas | Registered: Dec 2006
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I'm no great shot. My form...almost sucks lol. However I am pretty consistent. If your arrows are pretty similar (length, spine, pnt wt, fletching) you should see a repeating pattern in the tears. Of course when tuning shoot from the same distance each time.
If you're shooting a few arrows and the tears are all over the place (different from each other) just try shooting 1 individual arrow through the paper a few times. If in doing that you get widely varying paper tares I would say your form/release needs some work.
Chances are really good you'll see a repeating pattern though. And from that pattern you adjust your arrow (length or tip wt)
!!!IMPORTANT!!!.... DO YOURSELF A FAVOR!!! If you feel you need to shorten your shaft a bit to stiffen it up go a little at a time. You can probably go 1/4" off at a time if the left/right tear is quite pronounced ( 1.5"+ laterally). Just remember to come back the next day and shoot your one shortened arrow to see if it is correct. I found that during a night of test shooting I had extended my draw a bit. I cut my arrows that night and the next day I had arrows that were too short. So just don't be in a hurry.
You'll see the results of wt change/length change pretty quickly and get a feel for how far to go.
Keep in mind that each arrow my be different. Most recently I tuned in a doz tapered spruce arrows. They were wt matched and the spine were all within 3# of each other. I don't have a spine tester but I trust the man that did the work.
There were 2 arrows in that dozen that must have been 2# lighter than the others cause I needed to trim an extra 1/4" off those.
I just like being able to look at a tear in the paper. The paper doesn't lie..my eyes lie to me all the time.
Your paper "holder" doesn't need to be anything special. I literally have a 2x4 with one end laying on a high bench seat and the other a few steps up a ladder. I staple a piece of newspaper to the 2x4. I put a couple "squeeze clamps" on the bottom of the paper to hold it taught.
Just be sure you shoot at the paper square. Good luck!!
-------------------- If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle
..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear Posts: 4063 | From: Shelby, Michigan | Registered: Oct 2008
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quote:Originally posted by bubinga: I am going to give this a try. For you experts, when paper tuning do you tune for a slight nock high tear? I have always been told that slight nock high is more forgiving and have always bareshafted to get my bare shafts to impact just below the fletched shafts. Is this correct.
I'm no expert. I don't know if a nock high arrow is more forgiving or not.
Seems to me having a nock high arrow flight would scrub energy during flight, not enter your prey at the best angle, possibly make more feather noise, and wouldn't be using your feathers optimally since they are designed to go straight thru the air.
I'd be interested to hear other's thoughts on this as I have never heard nock high=more forgiving. Maybe there's something to it.
-------------------- If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle
..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear Posts: 4063 | From: Shelby, Michigan | Registered: Oct 2008
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posted
Paper tuning is ok for some applications,(compounds mostly) because it relies heavily on your ability to consistantly repeat your shots. Form is very important. If you vary from shot to shot, your results will vary. Bare shaft tuning works better for traditional shooters, IMO.
-------------------- Archery is a family sport, enjoy it with your family. Posts: 706 | From: South Central Kansas | Registered: Feb 2005
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I would suggest hooking up with an experienced archer to assist you with your set-up. Once you become cognizant of the principles and your confidence increases, you will be both, a much more confident and satisfied camper.
1. Bare shaft tuning is extremely productive.
2. The tell-all is tuning with your broadheads.
There are those that just skip the bare-shaft method and go straight to BH tuning with respect to their field point arrows.
-------------------- >>----> Friend <----<<
My Lands… Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse Posts: 4030 | From: Hanson, KY | Registered: Apr 2008
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posted
I have friendly disputes about paper tuning and bare shafting with a buddy of mine every time we get together. He spends a lot of time doing so and swears by it. I have never done it. I started out with a 50# bow and learned what shot well out of it for carbons and aluminums using spine charts and understanding that the charts are usually pretty stiff. I spoke with a professional about spining woods and figured out what shaft would work best for me in that regard.
From then on out, even after changing bows, etc - I've simply kept the same length and adjusted point weight. I haven't had a problem since.
I'm not opposed to trying it, I just haven't had the need.
-------------------- Nick Viau Michigan Longbow Association Council Member Michigan Traditional Bowhunters Michigan Bowhunters Stick and String Field Editor/Advisor Posts: 607 | From: Grand Rapids, Michigan | Registered: Jul 2009
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posted
Same as Kenneth here too. Paper or bare shaft tuned doesn't always result in great broadhead flight for me either. However, once I've got everything tuned to where the broadheads and field points shoot the same; bare shaft and paper testing looks great. With that, I only use bare shaft tuning initially to pick a shaft size, then fine tune with broadheads. Works for me.
-------------------- "The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails." - William Arthur Ward Black Widow PSAV 42#@29 Howard Hill Redman 45#@29 Northern Mist Superior 43#@28 Blue Ridge Snowy Mt 51#@30" Posts: 676 | From: Rhode Island | Registered: Nov 2004
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