quote:Originally posted by Guru: I shoot bows in the 57-63# range with fairly heavy, weight forward arrows that hit very hard. I also shoot at the Muzzy stump shoot competion which is about the ultimate test for arrow durability.
Over the years I've tried about everything, and most have failed...
Hot melt doesn't cut it, most epoxies, and even the high impact Gorilla super glue...it's all failed on me.
JB Weld, as has been mentioned here already is what I've found to be the absolute best.
I also add a 1" alumin. footing over the end, also with JB Weld to make a tough arrow almost indestructable.
JB Weld is great stuff!
i plan to add footing but i have to figure out what size alum arrow to buy the will work with the arrows im using. ill grab some jb weld at walmart and redo all the arrows i have with it.
also where in N are you located?
-------------------- - Hunterbow 58" 47# @26" -bear kodiak 60" 45# at 28" Posts: 1033 | From: windsor, NY | Registered: Dec 2010
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I had trouble with my gold tips and some of the hot melt glues but switched to Kimsha hot melt and haven't lost an insert yet.
Posts: 144 | From: NE Colorado | Registered: May 2009
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for carbon inserts and adapters, any quality slow set epoxy will do the trick (i use nhp). that and making sure the parts - inserts, adapters and points -are cleaned well. i use naphtha, lacquer thinner or acetone.
for woodies, i make sure the point taper is well sealed with cya glue, which wicks into the grain and hardens it for durability and glue adhesion. i use 'gurus magic green' hot melt for all woodie points and they do the trick for me.
-------------------- "Molon Labe" (Come and Get Them) ~ Instinctive Archer Magazine ~ TGMM Family of the Bow ~ NRA Life Member Posts: 8858 | From: NJ | Registered: Mar 2003
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It might also work to get a brass brush for cleaning rifles and run that in there a few times to clean out the glue. Gary
Posts: 815 | From: Utah | Registered: Jan 2006
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On cedars I use hot melt but I also run a tap in the point to put some thread to hold instesd of a smooth surface. On 11/32" points I use a 1/4" tap. On 23/64" I use 5/16" tap. Works for me.
Posts: 65 | From: OH | Registered: Feb 2010
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soaked the inserts in goo off and clean them all up, roughed up the saft and removed glue inside with a barrel brush then used a Q tip and rubbing alcohal to clean the inside then jb welded it in. tomarrow morning will be the test i guess.
-------------------- - Hunterbow 58" 47# @26" -bear kodiak 60" 45# at 28" Posts: 1033 | From: windsor, NY | Registered: Dec 2010
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I do exactly what Guru does. sawtoothscream - One thing to look out for when you do this (I know - you are already committed now ) is to make sure your footings are square and line up flush with whatever broadhead you are using. If they are too far back they will leave a gap that could inhibit penetration. If they are touching the back of your broadhead and are not square you will have alignment issues. If you do have alignment issues they still work for stumping, judos, and field points though. Don't ask how I know!
quote:Originally posted by Trad Whitetail: I do exactly what Guru does. sawtoothscream - One thing to look out for when you do this (I know - you are already committed now ) is to make sure your footings are square and line up flush with whatever broadhead you are using. If they are too far back they will leave a gap that could inhibit penetration. If they are touching the back of your broadhead and are not square you will have alignment issues. If you do have alignment issues they still work for stumping, judos, and field points though. Don't ask how I know!
JB Weld - the arrow maker's duct tape!
i dont know what size arrow i need so i dont have footings yet. i have to buy a arrow saw and g5 arrow sqaure soon. i hate not having all the stuff to make arrows. think that will be my next purchase
-------------------- - Hunterbow 58" 47# @26" -bear kodiak 60" 45# at 28" Posts: 1033 | From: windsor, NY | Registered: Dec 2010
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You are on the right track with the arrow saw and g5 arrow square. Also, a set of digital calipers used in conjunction with the chart that shows the inside diameter of the different sizes of aluminum arrows will get you very close to the size of footing you want.
Posts: 80 | From: Wyoming | Registered: Dec 2009
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quote:Originally posted by Schafer: What type of arrows are you using? I had this happen with my goldtips. What we ended up doing is sanding the inside of the shaft a little (with a chainsaw file) to make it ruff and for the inside of the arrow to except the glue better, then when it was smooth on the inside of the arrow. This helped quite a bit.
Schafer
Same here. A file did the trick then acetone to clean up. Now I can use hot melt. I did lose one the other day after I stuck it well past the brass insert in a 2x4, but other than that no problems.
-------------------- Firefly Long Bow James 4:14 60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17 Michigan Longbow Association Posts: 3624 | From: Kalamazoo, MI | Registered: Jan 2009
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quote:Originally posted by Trad Whitetail: You are on the right track with the arrow saw and g5 arrow square. Also, a set of digital calipers used in conjunction with the chart that shows the inside diameter of the different sizes of aluminum arrows will get you very close to the size of footing you want.
thanks im just going to take one of my broken GT arrows to the local shop and see what alum saft fits the best.
-------------------- - Hunterbow 58" 47# @26" -bear kodiak 60" 45# at 28" Posts: 1033 | From: windsor, NY | Registered: Dec 2010
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) is to make sure your footings are square and line up flush with whatever broadhead you are using. If they are too far back they will leave a gap that could inhibit penetration. If they are touching the back of your broadhead and are not square you will have alignment issues. If you do have alignment issues they still work for stumping, judos, and field points though. Don't ask how I know! ![[knothead]](graemlins/knothead.gif)
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