posted
with all the canopy minimal, now is the time to do a perimeter around your potential stand and see how your potential stand would look from the game's perspective. ie backlight from sun, overhead branches, treestand on a slope and game comes from ridge down toward you, etc, etc. Some stands can be quite low, ie an inside corner of a woodlot bordering a cornfield.
Posts: 452 | From: midwest | Registered: Dec 2004
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I've been hunting from trees 44 years longer than the average life-span of a Grey Squirrel (avg. age is tadd less than a year).
I prefer 15-18 feet high and about 15 yards from where I expect the deer to be when I shoot. I despise being closer than 10 yards because deer apparently hear my nose hairs rattle when I breath (pant).
My preferred tree species is an evergreen -- Eastern Red Cedars in my neck-o-the wood. Like TJ above I like big old limby ones. Have to be careful not to overtrim them and create gouging holes. I don't like the sap running from fresh cut limbs on these trees though getting all over the hands and gear! (Hopefully, this the only unmanly admission I'll make today).
If no cedar is handy my next choice is a multi-trunked hardwood or one with large, shape-hiding limb. From a security stand point I no longer like to be in trees (I use lock-ons) that don't have limbs around the stand or a tree touching the front and back of the stand. I often put a strap on the front of the stand to a limb or adjacent tree as well as the tree I'm in -- thi keep the stand from jostling at all.
I practice from the top of my deck standing on about two feet of foam. This is about a 15' high shot. I practice at 10, 15, 20, and for a form check - 30 yards.
I have 8 stands up currently on 137 acres. Three are lock-ons in cedars (I love Lone Wolf but saw a Big Muddy that looks rugggged!). Four are ladders in multi-stem and limby oaks and a hackberry.
-------------------- If the mind wanders, so too will the arrow.
Member of various archery organizations. Posts: 3858 | From: Kentucky | Registered: Jan 2004
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Another thing I do. I prefer tying limbs out of the way rather than cutting them if possible. When I cut limbs (cedar) I often weave these among the uncut to provide additional cover from eyes below me.
I like that Christmas Tree idea! The cedar limbs that I've cut and weaved die and have to be replaced over time. A section of artificial Chritmas tree would eliminate that issue!
-------------------- If the mind wanders, so too will the arrow.
Member of various archery organizations. Posts: 3858 | From: Kentucky | Registered: Jan 2004
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-------------------- But thou, O LORD, art a shield for me; my glory, and the lifter up of mine head. Psalms 3:3 Posts: 1917 | From: Crow Mnt., Arkansas | Registered: Nov 2009
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I use to use climbers, but I find in this area that it's not necessary to go very high up, so I now use two sets of Lone Wolf sticks, and a very light weight easy to hang fixed stand. This set up gets me up about 10-12 feet just above the bottom canopy. I naturally try and get close to other smaller tress that still have leaves. With this set up one can really tuck themselves away from very good eyes. Don't forget, the higher up you go the more the angle is for the shot.
Once all the leaves have fallen off I just use fake Christmas tress that have been put by the trash, deer don't know that an oak tree is not supposed to have pine tree limbs, come to think of it, most people wouldn't notice that either.
A couple off years ago, I had a pretty good size buck come up the tree, like a dog to try and figure out what I was. He never did, and eventually just wondered off, this really surprised me !
While hunting I don't usually go up in a tree, but since this set up is so light weight , I spot and stalk with it on, if I find a good ambush spot, with a good tree, I go up and wait, I also carry a light weight seat that I can set up in seconds. In this situation I would just put all the other stuff down and out of sight, seems to work pretty good for me.
Hope this helps.
-------------------- [*]Leon Stewart 3pc. 64" R/D 51# @ 27" [*]Gordy Morey 2pc. 68" R/D 55# @ 28" [*]Hoyt Pro Medalist, 70" 42# @ 28" (1963) [*]Bear Tamerlane 66" 30# @ 28" (1966)- for my better half [*]Bear Kodiak 60" 47# @ 28"(1965) Posts: 1790 | From: Soviet state of N.J. | Registered: Jul 2010
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I like to be 15' up in a tree larger around than my body profile. Then I feel like the tree blocks some of my outline, especially from behind.
Posts: 566 | From: Iowa | Registered: Jun 2008
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I like TJ's plan, for me a hemlock or cedar. For me it is not so much about height as it is about cover. I may have to go 25 ft. to make sure I have cover or am broken up by the tree, I may have to only go a few ft. and that is enough. That said I do hate the steep angle created by being high, but I deal with it if I have too and will let the deer get out aways before I shoot rather than that real steep angle. Shawn
posted
I usually go higher..about 18-20 feet, but prefer(in a perfect set up) to be 15 or so high and 15 yards away if possible to a hot run or area. I like a spot with strong thermals, so even if the winds are swirling my stink will be carried UP before they get it at this distance. I love cover, to hide my stand from potential thieves and not catch the eye of the very wary bucks around here. Small hang on stands with screw in steps, wedged into the thickest hemlock or white pine I can find. If none, I try to get into a cluster of two or more trees, the extra trunks really help break up outline and movement.
Good thermals are my biggest advantage, deer around here meander more than following a set path. They come in from any direction.
-------------------- David M. Conroy Posts: 2745 | From: Bellingham, Massachusetts | Registered: Jun 2009
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90% of the time, in a Loc-on, 100 yards from thick bedding area leading towards the most active feed tree (wind approving of course). 10% of the time, anywhere there is a doe in heat!
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90% of the time I use a climber. 15'-20' up and about 15 yards from trail. I really like a small beech next to my climbing tree for cover but over the years I worry less about cover and more about places with consisant wind.
Rob
-------------------- I'm just a guy on a buffalo. Posts: 1843 | From: S. Indiana | Registered: Jan 2011
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all great info- from hard earned experience. generally i get the feeling people would rather be a bit further out, and slightly lower- to make the better double lung shot- and obviously cover is of utmost importance!!
Posts: 1109 | From: Queen Charlotte Islands, B.C. Canada | Registered: Oct 2008
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I like a multi trucked tree. 12 to 15 feet and around 15 yards from the trail. with lots of back cover.
-------------------- Joe Ashton,D.C. Mohawk 55# and and 62" black widow 62" long bow 55# 21 century long bow 55# and 62" big horn recurve 58# and 58" Posts: 2414 | From: colorado | Registered: Feb 2007
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I like all the ideas above, except that many times they are not available options. So I just do the best I can. I will hang a loc On on a tree without much cover if I have backgound so I am not skylined. I prefer about 15-18 feet high about 15 yards from where I expect a shot. Right now I have a stand in an 8" cottonwood tree, 9' high. I am surrounded on the back by cedars. If I go any higher I will be skylined and out in the open. Because of the area a deer cannot come thru more than 15 yards away.
-------------------- PBS regular UBM life member Compton Posts: 1020 | From: Imperial, MO | Registered: Jul 2005
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Ray Lyon
Charter Member - Contributor 2013
Member # 35
posted
For the stand itself, I'm a big fan of Lone Wolf Alpha stand. It's big enough for my size 13 boots and they're quiet, period.
For the tree, I prefer pines, hemlocks or cedar OR a regular hardwood tree next to a couple of the above that will give me a good backdrop. Height depends on the trail location and cover. I probably average 12-15 feet to the base of the platform. I've got a couple at 20 feet. As noted above watch the shot angle. The higher I am, the farther from the trail I like to be. 15-18 yards is probably my average.
Don't underestimate the use of a ground blind on a embankment/hillside above a good trail. I've got a couple of spots that are about 20 yards off good trails that are 15-20 feet down a hillside with some juniper/small cedars around the back of the back/sides of the blind for cover. I just dig a comfortable seat into the side of the hill and put a little cover out in front for an effective blind and avoid being in a tree that does not provide good cover. This is especially important in the late season when there is no leaf cover. I think at that time of the year, a good ground blind is much better than a marginal tree stand setup.
Also, for those 'permanent' funnel locations that have good trees I like to set up a ladder stand to get to height I want and then put a Lone Wolf stand off to the side that I can step onto. I like the ease of climbing up and down a ladder stand, but don't like sitting on them or bow limb clearance on some. Usually you can find them for 60-80 bucks on clearance at the end of the hunting season at the various box stores.
-------------------- Shrewhaven Lodge co-chef Posts: 2569 | From: Traverse City, MI | Registered: Mar 2003
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