posted
I have some Grizzley stick Sitkas that I'd like to shorten, since they are tapered i must cut from the front. Is there any way to remove the inserts with out destroying the integrity of the shaft?
-------------------- Make a life, not a living Posts: 1926 | From: Rugged SE Minnesota | Registered: May 2005
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How much are you going to cut off? I have cut some shafts with the inserts in them and then removed them without worring about getting them too hot.
Posts: 398 | From: CA | Registered: Apr 2011
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Take the nock out and drop a hard object inside(drill bit) them and use it like a slide hammer. Just slide the object up and down by whipping the arrow and they will be hammered out from the rear and no harm done. I hope that makes sense cause it works darn good..Henry
-------------------- "No man's opinion is any better than his background, his experience and his general common sense." Jack O' Connor Posts: 691 | From: Minnesota | Registered: Jul 2008
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quote:Originally posted by Henry Hammer: Take the nock out and drop a hard object inside(drill bit) them and use it like a slide hammer. Just slide the object up and down by whipping the arrow and they will be hammered out from the rear and no harm done. I hope that makes sense cause it works darn good..Henry
That is the same method I use. It works perfectly.
God Bless, Nathan
-------------------- But thou, O LORD, art a shield for me; my glory, and the lifter up of mine head. Psalms 3:3 Posts: 1917 | From: Crow Mnt., Arkansas | Registered: Nov 2009
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Just dont do it on a tile floor, or near windows. a drill bit will crack both. I would get a piece of small diameter all thread and use it as a push rod for more control.
-------------------- Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a difference in the world, but the Marines don’t have that problem. —President Ronald Reagan Posts: 7953 | From: NJ to GA back to NJ =Lost ;) | Registered: Sep 2009
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I just use a gun cleaning rod,,, usually comes out with a couple sharp taps. If it is really stubborn, I leave the field point in and heat it with a candle (be carful not to get too hot as to burn the arrow.) Convection will pass the heat to the insert and loosen the glue.
Posts: 35 | From: Pa. | Registered: Feb 2010
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I have been pondering this for some time. I am going to try this when I get home tonight! Thanks guys! I accidently glued my inserts into full lenght shafts! Thought I had cut all of them but forgot to cut 6 of them!
-------------------- The man who thinks he can and the man who thinks he can't are both right!!! Posts: 2355 | From: Minnesota | Registered: Jun 2007
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Drill bit won't work on HIT brass inserts, and heating the field point won't do it either. Settled on adding an aluminum footing to make up the difference and cut from the back. Of course none of this helps with the original question, the drill bit method works well on other types of inserts that are not epoxied. Good luck.
Posts: 180 | From: Alaska | Registered: Oct 2010
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Saw this thread and did a little test. Gold Tip Trads, 55/75's with inserts glued in with Easton Quick HIT adhesive, the black stuff. The only stuff I use for inserts in carbons. Once it sets it ain't going nowhere. Dropped in a 15/64's bit, put the nock back on and gave it about 5 swings. Insert came out without a problem. I was suprized how easy it was.
-------------------- TGMM Family of the Bow 2011,2012 MK, LLC Shareholder Compton's Traditional Bowhunters Professional Bowhunters Society Posts: 2067 | From: Michigan | Registered: Nov 2007
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