posted
Good advise from all above......take your time looking and buy the best you can afford. I bought a bottom end but good quality bike 10-12 years ago for $500+, good stuff was $1500+ or more. Now you can get much better than I got for $500. Enjoy!! You also have to think how you can carry your bow and gear....you are planning to use this to hunt?
-------------------- In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities. In the expert's there are few...So the most difficult thing is always to keep your beginner's mind...This is also the real secret of the arts: always be a beginner. Shunryu Suzuki Posts: 9336 | From: tribes hill , new york | Registered: Jan 2008
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quote:Originally posted by Ron Bushong: Pat - PM sent with a link that might be of interest to you. Good luck.
RB
I would be interested in the link as well. I'm planning on getting my wife and I one this spring, mine is for hunting purposes, and her's is for pleasure.
-------------------- Michigan Longbow Association, Life Member
U.S. ARMY Military Police '90-'94
Ask me about the PBS, We Stand for Ethics. Posts: 4150 | From: Michigan | Registered: Sep 2005
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posted
Do you ever get to Northern Mi. I have a Specialized Hardrock, I would make you a heck of a deal on. It is a hard tail. Great bike. I bought a new 29"er to race with last year.. I am driving to Southern Mi in a week or so. Thank you
-------------------- "Windage and elevation Mrs. Langdon, windage and elevation..." Posts: 237 | From: Michigan | Registered: Oct 2011
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posted
Keep in mind when you harvest an animal you will make to trips out, one with the animal and one for the bike.
-------------------- Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a difference in the world, but the Marines don’t have that problem. —President Ronald Reagan Posts: 7953 | From: NJ to GA back to NJ =Lost ;) | Registered: Sep 2009
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posted
My wife and I did tons of mountain biking ten years ago but not so much lately due to family stuff. But when we were serious about it most bikes less than about $900.00 were not worth messing with as they just don't hold up off road. I destroyed some of the best high end components back in the day with just normal off roading wear and tear. My bikes were in the $1500.00 range
This past fall I stopped into my favorite local bike shop, haven't been there in ten years. ( like I said I've been out of the loop for current off road trends). I got to talking with the mechanic about maybe replacing my wife's bike with a new bike. But after looking at bikes equivalent to her 13 year old bike I would still have to spend about $1500.00 for not much improvement.
My point is we purchased bikes that were higher end years ago and they are still very good bikes even today. The biggest changes in the last 10 to 15 years have been in the braking systems. Going from cantilever to disc.
If you want a bike that will last, buy a good one. There is nothing worse than trying to cross a stream and throwing a chain because you derailer is junk. We rode with some friends that were quit thrift and they ended up pushing their bikes out of the woods most of the time.
Mountain bikes are like binoculars spend as much as you can on them and it will pay off in the long run. Glen
Posts: 665 | From: Massachusetts | Registered: Apr 2007
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posted
Besides Craigslist try the local cycle shop bulletin boards and the local cycle club sale pages on their websites. There may yet be a deal out there. I use a 1996 Gary Fisher hardtail with original "entry level" components. I changed out the cassette to a lower range of cogs and the small chain ring to a 24 tooth. Other than change saddles, pedals and grips, a chain here and a headset there, over the years it has given great service with an initial cash outlay of $250.00
-------------------- Member NCBA Posts: 218 | From: North Carolina | Registered: Feb 2011
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-------------------- "You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear Posts: 3714 | From: Zoo City, NC | Registered: Aug 2010
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posted
Get to some bike shops now as they could still have some 2011 bikes in the system for a good deal. I got my road bike that way and saved over 40%.
Good luck.
Posts: 524 | From: Holt, Michigan | Registered: Aug 2004
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posted
After working in several shops over the years... and spending the majority of my life on two wheels, here's my quick two thoughts. 1)If you want to go new... Giant is normally the best bang for your buck. They make frames for several of the other companies out there so their overhead on the largest single component is minimal, the price you pay goes more into components. 2)Their are several places on the web similar to TradGang that are filled with great folks doing the same thing.. talking story, trading advice and equipment. I would check the classifieds from MTBR.com and PinkBike.com I have purchased multiple bikes and components from MTBR's classifieds. They have a wonderful review section as well.
...just like Archery nothing in the world could compare to a great local shop, but not everyone has one. You get what you pay for, if you keep your money local, you get your support local a little cheaper... spend your money over the internet, get your help blindly over the internet, and eventually pay for parts you didn't use, didn't need, but who knows, you can save a buck. I know it sounds bias from working in a shop... but I have paid the price to learn it... and still don't follow it. They use to say you can tell a good bike mechanic by how much money he has spent on ruined bike parts. Same goes for archery, I just can't seem to find a shop that I trust or want to go back to, so I will continue to lurk the pages here, order blindly and have some random crap I can't use, or can't use effectively... or just broken in the basement hidden from my wallet's view. I really just need to find a shop. even with an hour drive it would be much cheaper... and less time.
-------------------- Shootz! Posts: 21 | From: MT~Active Duty in MD | Registered: Aug 2011
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posted
Check out a 29er. The bigger wheels have some advantages over 26ers especially in hard tails. For the price range you are looking at, used or waiting for a sale would be your best bet. Specialized, Marin, Scott, Yeti are all good brands - even on the lowend. Even better when you get them on sale.
Posts: 109 | From: Monument, Colorado | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
It has been mentioned, but definately make sure that you buy the right size bike. You can search online to find out how to figure the correct frame size, or ask at a shop when you are there. Just don't fall for a good deal on a used one if the frame isn't the right size for you. Also as so many have mentioned, the biggest difference in quality is in the components. Buy the best you can afford.
Posts: 8776 | From: Lake Mills, WI | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
I have about 15 seasons of experience as a bike mechanic. A few season's experience riding technical mountain bike trails (with accompanying injuries, which don't help my shooting any!). You DO want to go with a major brand name bike, from a reputable specialty shop.
You WILL probably want to look at around $650-700 as a starting point for a bike that will actually hold up off road. More, if performance is important. You want an oil filled or air filled front fork (suspension). NOT a "polymer" or "elastomer" action.
You'll get Shimano or Sram components: neither very good at the lower end, but low end Sram is the worst. Refer to starting price.
Each major mfg.'r offers something competitive, overall quality will be similar for similar $. One will trade a higher end this for a lower end that. Refer to starting price.
Specialized "hard rock" would be the most minimal range for reliability. Better to step up a notch, probably their "rockhopper" in line. Trek, Giant, Rocky Mtn., Kona, etc., will offer comparable quality for price.
Posts: 224 | From: VT | Registered: Sep 2011
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posted
2 weeks ago, I went in to a local bike shop to discuss this very issue. I had a list from other posts here that I went over with the guy (front suspension, disc brakes, better seat, etc.) I like the idea of going to the small local shop vs. the line up at the various Mart's. I came out of there with a down payment (layaway)on a Norco Wolverine and a nice feeling, well fitting helmet. $825.00 tax in. Both products last years models, on sale. Not done yet as I'll be getting a back rack and fender kit (another $100.00, approx.) Probably not the end of the financial pain, but this is my first bike in 50 years and I have to see what it is that I'll need/want. This bike is the next step up from entry level at this shop. They're a full service place and I feel good about it. Maybe upgrade, maybe not. As above, fit and feel with dependability are the important features. My riding is on our 250 acres only, (for now) on trails that I made. Won't be "getting any air" unless it's me "leaving" the bike unexpectedly! Trailer not necessary, as a successful hunt will bring out my workhorse Honda 500 Foreman. My plan is to use the unit as a relatively silent (and hopefully less scentful) way to approach my hunting grounds. We'll see...
-------------------- TOM
WHAT EACH OF US DOES IS OF ULTIMATE IMPORTANCE. Wendell Berry Posts: 1351 | From: Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Mar 2010
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You also have to think how you can carry your bow and gear....you are planning to use this to hunt?
