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I can do it, but it gives me fits of anxiety. It feels like the bow wants to flip over.
-------------------- "The overhead view is of me in a maze...you see what I'm hunting a few steps away." Phish Posts: 1489 | From: Milford Delaware | Registered: May 2009
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posted
Any stringer with a cup and block will work fine. Never use a tip style on a static as you will very likely pull it out of plane and twist the limbs.
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I was thinking I needed a different stringer. Guess I gotta go "borrow" Dads.
-------------------- "The overhead view is of me in a maze...you see what I'm hunting a few steps away." Phish Posts: 1489 | From: Milford Delaware | Registered: May 2009
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I would use a block and tip stringer. The origonal Talon was only stringable with that type. I redesigned the limb so that now the Talon 11 strings right up with a tip to tip stringer and absolutely no problems. Most of the bows will have twisting problems as the tips are not horizontally stable until at brace. With all of those you definately want to use the block and tip. I have broken more than one trying otherwise.
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Thanks guys. Boy do those limbs fling an arrow. I think I'm going to have to trade for a low wrist riser though.
-------------------- "The overhead view is of me in a maze...you see what I'm hunting a few steps away." Phish Posts: 1489 | From: Milford Delaware | Registered: May 2009
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I like thunderhorn stringer the most.The bottom leather cup gets progessivly tighter as you begin putting pressure on the string.very tight and secure fit.The pressure pad works well.
On really radical recurves I sometimes put a small rubberband on the bottom limb about 4 inches down from the tip to make sure the string stays in the string groove.
Other than that just pull straight up evenly and smoothly with a strong grip to prevent flipping.
Posts: 4279 | From: Lake Orion MI. | Registered: May 2006
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