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I had a thread on here about using gorilla glue for inserts. I ruined 2 arrows last night with it .NEVER again. I used the original hot melt this morning and it worked but gets the arrow pretty hot(carbons MFX). Who has used the BLUE hot melt? Does it hold as well as the original? Thanks. BILL
Posts: 763 | From: Maryland | Registered: Oct 2006
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Just did up a dozen full metal jackets with it. Have been shooting for a couple of weeks, Nice to work with and no problems yet. Posts: 114 | From: Montana | Registered: Oct 2009
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Bill, I use the low heat glue stick from 3R's. I heat the insert and heat the stick and put it on the insert. Push it in and done. No problems.
Don't heat the shaft.
If you are going to Baltimore this weekend look for it down there. I know Jim Rebuck from J&M Archery uses the low heat stick. He might have some for sale.
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Using the blue hot melt I've had inserts and field tips come off adapters using the hot melt. Granite they were shot in to target butts(I think that's what they are called, looks like stacked cardboard material)
So when I'm experimenting with tips/inserts and I weight I use the blue hot melt but for permanence an durability I use insert glue.
Posts: 32 | From: Maryland | Registered: Apr 2012
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Never used the original hot melt on anything but wood, so I can't really compare the blue vs. the original. I have used the blue on carbons though (GT Trads) with brass inserts and had good luck with it. Using an insert tool, I heated the insert just enough that it would melt the glue when touched / rubbed against it and immediately inserted into shaft with a twisting motion to spread glue evenly. Then place in a glass of room temerature water to cure the glue as per the instuctions. I believe the instructions said to wipe off excess before placing in water, I did it after curing. Have shot the arrows into "block" targets, my target bag, and "boat dock" foam targets without any problems. To remove, I used the same insert tool, heated the shaft of the tool while pulling lightly against the insert. As soon as I feel a little give the insert slides right out. I've gone through this process several times with the same batch of arrows while tuning with no visible damage to the shafts and they're still holding well. All that being said, if you want something more permenant, I really like the Loc Tite Ultra Gel in the black bottle. It is a rubberized formula which has worked well for me and it's available just about anywhere from Wal Mart, to Lowe's, to Home Depot.
-------------------- Smoking cures ham Posts: 238 | From: Denison, Tx. | Registered: Jan 2012
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Bohning is one provider of the darker brownish hot melt (low heat)
Big Jim sells it on his site that is reputed to work well.
We used it at a large retailer where I worked and we would cut, tap carbon and use hot melt in a hot pot and heat the insert in a torch, dip in hot melt pot, insert, wipe and hand to customer.
They were shooting into our masonite layers back stop like described above in 15 min and in 2 yrs part time, I only ever heard of 2 pull outs!
I do use a q-tip with alcohol to clean the inside of the shaft...but that is it. Works for me and I only ever had ONE pull out in an oak stump...glad it did let go!
-------------------- The words "Child" and "terminal illness" should never share the same sentence! Those who care-do, others question!
TGMM Family of the Bow Sasquatch 60" T/D, R/D LB Posts: 11101 | From: L@ncaster County, PA | Registered: Mar 2003
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i'm curious how you ruined two arrows using the gorilla super glue? The blue cap impact resistant gives you about 8-10 seconds adjustment time, and is excellent glue.
Was this the stuff you used?
don't get me wrong... i prefer the hot melt over epoxy or super glue myself, and I'm with Doc on the Bohning glue. it's good stuff.
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Curious as to how the arrows themselves are getting hot. I use hot melt with mfx shafts as well. I only heat the hot melt up enough to coat the insert...I can't recall any kind of heat transfer.
-------------------- "We don't have our own hunting show, but we've been on the evening news a few times..." Posts: 867 | From: Southeast Oklahoma | Registered: Sep 2006
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quote:Originally posted by Craig: . I heat the insert and heat the stick and put it on the insert. Push it in and done. No problems.
Don't heat the shaft. .
I use a similar method with high temp hot melt. I just place the insert into the shaft enough to hold it. Then heat the insert over a torch. Place glue, from a glue gun on the insert. Push in. No problems.
I don't ever heat the shaft unless I want them out, which happens very seldom. Then I heat the shaft, and they do come out, but it ruins the finish on the MFXs for the most part. The ruined finish isn't that big a deal, because the only reason I take them out is if I have some sort of problem.
Posts: 826 | From: Mount Horeb, WI | Registered: Jul 2004
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It-m-grow, Take out your point and heat the threads and screw back in. Wait a few seconds and pull out the insert. I would never heat a carbon shaft.
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ive been using the blue hot melt for about 3 months now ive tried about everything else and think its the best thing going for carbon zero problems since i started using it kevin
Posts: 1052 | From: HESPERIA MICHIGAN | Registered: Jan 2008
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I've been using blue bohning stuff for a couple of months and when I hit something hard the aluminum inserts are breaking free, I use a bore brush, followed by 99% alcohol before gluing the insert in and then dunking in water just like the instructions say. Just got some new arrows and brass inserts, going to see if they stay in better than the aluminum
-------------------- David Achatz CPO USN Ret.
%$!@ %&*^ riser with Dryad ACS RC limbs Posts: 488 | From: CO | Registered: Jan 2012
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