posted
at first this seems like a rather straightforward process. But upon doing it, I'm having a rough go getting it to look real well. anyone have any pointers? What leather do you prefer?
-------------------- 77# @ 29.5 r/d longbow homer 80# @ 29.5 GN super Ghost Posts: 1106 | From: Finally back in wyo!!! | Registered: Jun 2008
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posted
Soak the leather for a while, then wrap it around grip and wrap a wet hand towel around it multiple times and real tight and tie the ends of the towel. That will bend it around the grip well. Let it dry that way then remove the towel and put the barge cement all on the leather and reapply the leather to the grip. Then tie the dry towel back around the grip until the glue dries. Then you can cut and sew the grip on.
Those deeper recurve grips are tougher so thinner leather is easier to get to conform to the grip.
-------------------- "Dog on Point" or "Deer on Ground?" Posts: 6453 | From: Kentucky | Registered: Jun 2007
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The shape of the grip will determine how difficult it is to put leather on it. I just put beaver tail on two bows, and it was by far the most difficult that I have done so far.
I had to sand the leather down to make it shape to the grip, then I had to wet it down with hot water and wrap it with trainers tape while it dried before making the final cuts and punching holes for sowing it together. I am by no means an expert, but if you need some more help pm me and I will give you my phone # it might be more helpful to explain it on the phone.
Posts: 1056 | From: Pennsylvania | Registered: Mar 2011
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TJ nailed it. Key is wetting the leather thoroughly and forming to the grip. I recently did mine with a beavertail I got from Big Jim. I wrapped the wet beavertail with an ace bandage and let sit for 24hrs or so. Then you can make your cuts accordingly, punch your holes and lace etc. I am very pleased with how mine turned out given it was my first attempt. Just take your time and be patient....you can do it!
-------------------- "Don't worry about the old blind mule, just keep a load in the wagon!" Posts: 444 | From: Cranberry Twp., Pennsylvania | Registered: Feb 2004
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I love this bow I'm shooting now, but it does have a locator grip that is super glossy, so a bit slick. I don't want to glue it, dont trust myself wtih a beautiful bow like this. yet, I want a wrap on it.
Maybe I'll use something other then leather..
thanks again for your help!
-------------------- 77# @ 29.5 r/d longbow homer 80# @ 29.5 GN super Ghost Posts: 1106 | From: Finally back in wyo!!! | Registered: Jun 2008
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butchie, did you glue that? Perhaps that is standard form and I just didn't know it! how naive I am.
Lost arra, thanks for the link!
-------------------- 77# @ 29.5 r/d longbow homer 80# @ 29.5 GN super Ghost Posts: 1106 | From: Finally back in wyo!!! | Registered: Jun 2008
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posted
Yes, I used barge cement after getting everything formed and cut to shape.
-------------------- "Don't worry about the old blind mule, just keep a load in the wagon!" Posts: 444 | From: Cranberry Twp., Pennsylvania | Registered: Feb 2004
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posted
Also, don't worry barge cement is easy to remove if you want or have to. I understand your apprehension but it really isn't difficult. Take your time & you'll be happy you did it yourself when done!
-------------------- "Don't worry about the old blind mule, just keep a load in the wagon!" Posts: 444 | From: Cranberry Twp., Pennsylvania | Registered: Feb 2004
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posted
thanks for the pep talk. I'll post photos in case its a disaster, so we can at least remember what this bow was when it left the great northern factory! :-) first step is to find some suitable leather. turns out this leather Im using I think is too thick. it was a scrap at the house I thought would be suitable.
are there any other materials ya'll have used that worked well?
-------------------- 77# @ 29.5 r/d longbow homer 80# @ 29.5 GN super Ghost Posts: 1106 | From: Finally back in wyo!!! | Registered: Jun 2008
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posted
One thing to consider as well, leather has an internal grain to it we can't see. Leather will stretch better one way than the other. Test your piece of leather before you size it up and then size according to how the grain lets the leather stretch. Stretch left/right on the handle, not top/bottom.
Punch your holes with a round hole punch rather than a slot cutter. Slots are OK, but if you pull tightly on the lace you may split the leather. The round punched holes take more pulling abuse.
If you have a furniture manufacturer near you they might have quality leather scraps for cheap.
Thicker leather? = more stretch ability for forming and pulling on lace holes. Thinner leather? = the need for a more of an exact fit before committing to lacing.
-------------------- "You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear Posts: 3688 | From: Zoo City, NC | Registered: Aug 2010
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I use the wet method, too, but I forgoe the glue. Cut the leather just a hair small, the soak and stretch around the handle. Make sure to fold over and glue the stitched edge to itself or your stitching will pull through when you tighten it. After you have the wet leather stitched together and tightened, just let it dry. It will get even tighter. I like ostrich leg leather, it is tough, looks reptilian, and is pretty cheap.
Posts: 963 | From: Tampa, FL | Registered: Aug 2011
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posted
soaking the beaver tails is almost always a must, but depending on what leather you are using, it may not be necessary.
The glue is great help in that it will hold your piece in place while you form, and cut it. Draw an outline on where you would like to trim using a pen or wax pencil. Use a razor blade to trim, but be careful to pull up on the leather as you are triming so as not to cut into the finish of the bow. Dont spread glue on the back side of the grip (portion where your fingers overlap). This will allow you to size, trim and mark and then peel back to punch holes without removing from bow. Glue there before sewing.
it is ok to leave a small gap where the edges meet with softer leathers, but you will never pull that gap shut when using Beaver.
If you are using regular leather, it is usually cheap enought to redo if you don't like how it turned out. Not so with Beaver.
I have done several hundred beaver tails in this way and found it to work well for me.
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