posted
Ok- I have had KME knife sharpener for a few years. No doubt a great piece of equip. I have read tons on TG. But honestly- I can spend hours and never get anything as sharp as my old accusharp w a few swipes and polish on ceramic sticks. (I even went back to an accusharp for kitchen knives- again just minutes for a sharp knife!) Give me a magnus head; accusharp, sticks (or other strop) and I have a shaving sharp head in a literally a couple of minutes!
Now I got the Kodiaks. Again- seem like an incredible weapon. I pulled out the KME and I spent an HOUR last night on ONE head- and no further ahead then when I started! It really is frustrating. . .
Any tips?? I really would love to learn this art of sharpening. One thing I have never learned- even at over a half century old! I suck.
Dan
-------------------- After cursing through every slice and missed shot on the first nine holes, a golf partner said to his frustrated and cursing partner, "I think I can tell you your problem." "Really?" "You just aren't that good." Posts: 1758 | From: Kansas | Registered: Feb 2004
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I think you may be trying to hard and making something that is really pretty simple too complicated. All you need to do to the new Grizzlies is raise a burr on the flat side with a rough stone or file and then polish it off with either a fine stone or leather.
-------------------- James Kerr Posts: 3086 | From: LA | Registered: Feb 2011
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I too am 'sharpening challenged' and have a difficult time at putting an edge on anything.
I hear this term 'burr' all to often and don't understand what it is, feels like or looks like. Is there someone who can explain or illustrate what this is?
Posts: 1000 | From: Cherryville, NC | Registered: Jun 2011
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A burr is a thin line of flexible metal at the edge of the cutting blade. As you sharpen and develop the burr, it will get slightly larger until it becomes so large and flexible that it falls off. I sometimes get them off in thin strips... then I know I did a good job! Keep in mind, it's less than a tenth of an inch and runs the length of a blade. You can feel it on the opposite side of where your file is after you run the file about 10-20 times across the blade with decent pressure.
-------------------- I Corinthians 9 24-25 ...run in such a way so as to obtain the prize! Posts: 1196 | From: Stewartstown, Pa | Registered: Nov 2007
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posted
Using a coarse diamond stone on KME- Never got a burr. Tried a file- but then I start changing the factory grind. . .???
-------------------- After cursing through every slice and missed shot on the first nine holes, a golf partner said to his frustrated and cursing partner, "I think I can tell you your problem." "Really?" "You just aren't that good." Posts: 1758 | From: Kansas | Registered: Feb 2004
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The KME is excellent, but...the problems you are having with the Grizzly’s IMO are justified. It can be very frustrating at first, especially with a stone. You will not raise a burr with this method. I quit using stones with the KME for Grizzly’s. "Sharpster" will spend all night talking with you to try and help you use the KME on Grizzly’s, his dedication and professionalism is unprecedented.
I have better luck using KME with a whole sheet of 400 & 600 wet/dry sandpaper, used wet, on a marble chisel honing slab from Woodcraft. I then hone Grizz with paper wheel & compound using high rpm grinder. You can cut cellophane (plastic food wrap) in clean shreds just by hanging it freely, without it bunching-up. Try that with a “sharp” broadhead, it’s difficult.
Send me a PM or give me a call if you care to (608)798-1103. If you do a SEARCH regarding subj. you will find that this has been brought up a bunch of times with lots of good advice.
Best of luck and don’t give up!
Kris
Posts: 528 | From: Madison, WI | Registered: Jun 2007
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Thanks A LOT Kris. By the sounds you have the KME broadhead sharpener? Mine is the knife sharpener. Sure appreciate the offer. I may bug you at some point.
If any have search links they know of I appreciate it. I did search but found only a little help.
May need a different file.
Thanks for all the input.
-------------------- After cursing through every slice and missed shot on the first nine holes, a golf partner said to his frustrated and cursing partner, "I think I can tell you your problem." "Really?" "You just aren't that good." Posts: 1758 | From: Kansas | Registered: Feb 2004
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Dan- I had some trouble getting the Grizzles as sharp as I like using a knife sharpener. I would sugest getting one of your ceramic sticks out and give the head a few (maybe 10) LIGHT strokes on the beveled side and then just one even lighter stroke on the oppostie side and see where your at...The new heads don't need much work to them at all. I have found that with these new heads less is more.
Don't "sharpen" but polish the edge.
-------------------- "It's not the trophy ,but the race. It's not the quarry ,but the chase." Posts: 798 | From: West Columbia, SC | Registered: Dec 2005
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quote:Originally posted by Rick Richard: I too am 'sharpening challenged' and have a difficult time at putting an edge on anything.
I hear this term 'burr' all to often and don't understand what it is, feels like or looks like. Is there someone who can explain or illustrate what this is?
Google "sharpening blade burr" and amke sure you're looking at google imges, not google search. There a few illustrations that should help
Posts: 2098 | From: Dallas, Texas | Registered: Sep 2008
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I'm writing a tutorial for sharpening Grizzlies with each sharpener (BHD or knife) but I'm not done yet. This make take a few posts but any questions along the way will help me make sure the finished "how to" is clear and understandable.
Knife sharpener: First thing we need to do is find the correct angle setting. Clamp the BHD in the jaws, bevel side up and color the factory bevel with a sharpie or permanent marker.
Eyeball the angle as best you can, then take a few swipes with a coarse, dry stone just to see where the ink is being removed. A couple of quick swipes is enough.
If the ink is being removed from the shoulder of the bevel but not from the cutting edge, that means the angle is set too low. If the ink is coming off only at the very edge of the blade, you may want to lower the angle just a bit. (or you may not, it's better to have the angle set a bit too high than a bit too low). I like to see the ink coming off right at the cutting edge and maybe just a bit more than that. I don't try to duplicate the factory bevel, I'm only interested in sharpening the cutting edge.
-------------------- After cursing through every slice and missed shot on the first nine holes, a golf partner said to his frustrated and cursing partner, "I think I can tell you your problem." "Really?" "You just aren't that good." Posts: 1758 | From: Kansas | Registered: Feb 2004
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Huge strides tonight guys. I read, watched a couple vids, talked with Kris (from Packer country!) and I think I got a system that worked for me.
I clamped a bastard/mill file to my bench. Holding the factory grind as consistent as I could I worked the blade with smooth strokes down the file. With some "biting" of the file I got the blade to take off some good metal and begin to burr. Then I just stropped it on a piece of cardboard until the burr was gone (feeling with my fingernail). . . Ahhh. Hair falling off my arm. Now to do it again!
EDIT: A little added input here. I found I could get the burr to clean off quicker with the ceramic sticks followed by the cardboard strop. I may try to get a leather strop. Either way- I think I finally got Grizzs to sharpen. Yea me!!
The whole thing took less than 10 minutes- my kind of process.
Time will tell. Thanks for all the input. Anymore would be great.
Dan
-------------------- After cursing through every slice and missed shot on the first nine holes, a golf partner said to his frustrated and cursing partner, "I think I can tell you your problem." "Really?" "You just aren't that good." Posts: 1758 | From: Kansas | Registered: Feb 2004
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posted
Single bevels whipped me last week so you're not alone. I've given up on them until I find a good reason to go back, there's already a lifetime supply of good double bevel and three blade heads out there for me to waste any more time with the singles!
Posts: 1176 | From: Lexington, Kentucky | Registered: Aug 2007
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I tell you Brad- I tend to agree, though I may have it FINALLY. Although- I am saying it again- 15 years with magnus, an accusharp, and some ceramic sticks were shaving sharp and killed a lot of game! Couldn't get easier.
I hope I can master the KME one day. Great tool, great people- I am just inhibited I guess.
-------------------- After cursing through every slice and missed shot on the first nine holes, a golf partner said to his frustrated and cursing partner, "I think I can tell you your problem." "Really?" "You just aren't that good." Posts: 1758 | From: Kansas | Registered: Feb 2004
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Which ceramic rods would you recommend? I use an accusharp or a wheel sharpener now with magnus heads. A stropping on lether helps, but i think the rod version might be better.
What do you suggest
Posts: 2098 | From: Dallas, Texas | Registered: Sep 2008
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