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Which would you rather have from a 50lb R/D longbow?
2016 shafts with 125gr points or 2315 shafts with 250gr points
Only major downside to 2315's is that there aren't any 250gr Judo's out there but you can make 260gr Judos by gluing the glue on points into a 125gr screw in adapter.
Also, for what it's worth, my bow is shooting 2016's with 125gr points at 172 fps. Based on that, I'd expect it to sling the heavier arrows at about 145 fps since that's also -18 from Stu's calculated ideal. Posts: 312 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Jul 2012
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Also, I should add that I do 95% target practice and roving, 3% small game hunting, and 2% deer/hog hunting.
Posts: 312 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Jul 2012
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I also shoot a 50# R/D bow, and prefer the carbon GT 3555's Trads. But I prefer a faster arrow, so I'd go with the 2016's. FUnny how the arrows never shoot quite as fast as STU calculates.
-------------------- Shoot Straight, Feel Great! Posts: 292 | From: PA | Registered: Jun 2012
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Id prolly shoot a 2018 with a little more weight (than 125) up front.
Eric
-------------------- "I dont want to overthrow the government, I wanna Fire'em!"- Gallagher Technolgy-The knowledge of arranging things so we dont have to actually experience them. If you want people to listen to what you have to say, dont talk so much! Posts: 2574 | From: Manton Michigan | Registered: Mar 2006
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quote:Originally posted by UrbanDeerSlayer: I also shoot a 50# R/D bow, and prefer the carbon GT 3555's Trads. But I prefer a faster arrow, so I'd go with the 2016's. FUnny how the arrows never shoot quite as fast as STU calculates.
He says in his manual that those are the top end estimates of speed. I don't really care much how fast it shoots so long as it's shooting straight and I can practice working with my trajectory.
I do shoot through my chronograph occasionally though to see how consistent my release is. When I do this I'll shoot the same arrow over and over for 50 times then see what my extreme spread and standard deviation is. Those numbers really are more telling to me than velocity. Usually I get an ES=8 to 11, and SD=2 or 3 fps. My goal is to consistently maintain an ES of 10fps or lower and SD of 2 fps or lower.
Posts: 312 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Jul 2012
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I would go with a 28.5" 1918 or 28.5" 2016 with that draw and point weight, if your draw is 28" you may be able to go up in point weight with broadheads. We tested four of our bows last year and found two of them right on the money, one a little bit slower and one quite a bit faster than what the Stu chart says.
Posts: 2559 | From: Iowa | Registered: Oct 2009
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-------------------- If God didn't want man to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of meat. Posts: 194 | From: Hawaii | Registered: Feb 2004
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quote:Originally posted by WESTBROOK: Id prolly shoot a 2018 with a little more weight (than 125) up front.
Eric
Out of the two you mentioned though, I would probably go with the 2016's. Those 2315's are pretty heavy and slow and I would have to reteach myself how to aim with an arrow going that slow. The skinnier shafts would be better for penetration too, I think.
I am really liking the 2018 idea! You can add 1/4" to the shaft, get over 10gpp, and go up to a 150gr point (which ups your FOC a bit). AND, it comes out almost perfect on the calculator.
Bisch
BTW, how did you copy and paste that image from the calculator. I tried and tried and could not figure out how to do that. I'm not very computer savvy.
-------------------- TGMM Family of the Bow Posts: 4111 | From: Georgetown, Texas | Registered: Sep 2008
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quote:Originally posted by Bisch: BTW, how did you copy and paste that image from the calculator. I tried and tried and could not figure out how to do that. I'm not very computer savvy.
Looks like capture software was used like Snag-It in that case. If you don't have any special programs you can do this: 1) click on the window you want to capture 2) hold Shift, press PrtSc button 3) open Paint 4) click the Paste button (or hold CTRL and press v) 5) now use the box tool to select the area you want to share with TG and click Crop. 6) Click Resize and choose Resize by Pixels, if it's under 640 wide it's ready for TG, if not make it 640 and click OK 7) save it and put it on some webserver, post link to TG
Sorry for the baby steps but who knows where someone might get hung up, and a year of working helpdesk forced me to talk this way Thom
-------------------- Michigan Longbow Association Compton's Traditional Bowhunters >>>---TGMM Family of the Bow---> Posts: 884 | From: Grand Haven, Michigan | Registered: Aug 2010
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quote:Originally posted by Bisch: [QUOTE]Originally posted by WESTBROOK: [qb] BTW, how did you copy and paste that image from the calculator. I tried and tried and could not figure out how to do that. I'm not very computer savvy.
I use an Apple and hit "command"+"shift"+"4" and it gives me a crosshair that I can use to crop a portion of my screen out with.
For PC users you can do a screenshot (I don't remember how to but a quick google search would tell you what to hit) then crop the photo in Paint. Their may be a way you can do a partial screenshot on a PC as well, I just wouldn't know how.
Posts: 312 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Jul 2012
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quote:Originally posted by UrbanDeerSlayer: I prefer a faster arrow, so I'd go with the 2016's.
I built my 2016 arrows up to work with 125gr points because that's what I had for my compound bow. Now I've been reading about the advantages of heavier arrows for hunting and higher FOC's for hunting. Most of my 2016 arrows are getting broken from stump shooting in rocky areas so I'm needing new arrows anyway. It has me thinking I may want to try a heavier build and use up the last of my 2016's for Judo point stump shooting arrows.
There isn't a very large difference in speed to me with the heavier arrows. The heavy ones are going 111 miles per hour whereas my 2016's are going 129 miles per hour. Both speeds are more than fast enough. Plus, when you only shoot one bow, it makes learning the trajectory of either really quick and easy.
Posts: 312 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Jul 2012
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quote:Originally posted by WESTBROOK: Id prolly shoot a 2018 with a little more weight (than 125) up front.
Eric
Out of the two you mentioned though, I would probably go with the 2016's. Those 2315's are pretty heavy and slow and I would have to reteach myself how to aim with an arrow going that slow. The skinnier shafts would be better for penetration too, I think.
I am really liking the 2018 idea! You can add 1/4" to the shaft, get over 10gpp, and go up to a 150gr point (which ups your FOC a bit). AND, it comes out almost perfect on the calculator.
More food for thought. Thanks. When I started playing with the calculator I jumped into straight into 250 and 300 grain points just to see what I could build with a heavier arrow and higher FOC that would be good for me. I don't know if I'm going to switch over completely to higher weights yet, but I'll get 3 arrows of higher weights to test out at the local shop and see if I like them better before ordering another batch of arrows.
Posts: 312 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Jul 2012
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-------------------- "If I had tried a little harder and practiced a little more, by now I could have been average"...Me Posts: 1512 | From: Macon, Ga. | Registered: May 2009
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Which one would I rather have? BOTH. The one that fit the game and area I'm hunting them in.
Antelope out west and deer and black bear .....the 470 grainer every time.
Hogs, the 636 grainer....also bigger game like elk n moose.
-------------------- Mr Terry.....will you turn on the crickets for me - Cade Cabrera Posts: 24240 | From: GAWGIA | Registered: Mar 2003
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