posted
was wondering what the do it yourselfer's are using for a finish coat over snake skins on your limbs, and the long term results? I just put a set of copperheads on some Morrison Shawnee limbs, skins are dried and trimmed, haven't gone any farther yet...I know some guys use super glue and then spray finish, and some guys use true oil and then spray finish. what has been your best results?
thanks, larry
Posts: 2859 | From: martville ny | Registered: Mar 2003
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For the DIY guy I suggest true oil as it is easy to apply and has great results. Some finishes are not compatible with skins and the finsh will lift and flake off after the bow is been shot. I only know of two fininshes that will work that I have 1st hand knowledge of anf that is true oil and thunderbird, and I know for a fact ML Campbel Krystal will not work. Ive heard spray can poly will work but I have never used it. You can do a search on the bowyers bench and get some good info.
-------------------- US ARMY 1984-1988 Posts: 1861 | From: Fowlerville,MI | Registered: Dec 2004
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Copperheads are great. I love them all,but alot of Diamondbacks I have done have scales like a dragon. I have had great results with big,tough,scaled snakes applying superglue over the skins after they have been glued,and sanded to really keep the remaining scales down. I apply the glue above the scales that are sticking up,then smooth it over the suspect area with my finger going with the running pattern of the scales. Tru-oil is very good. You need to patient with it. lot's of thin coat's. I just finished a bow with Canebrake skins,and had my painter friend spray automotive clear coat over the whole bow. It has alot of flex due to its use in plastic bumper covers,and it is tough,and resists the suns UV rays. Guys...IT IS BEAUTIFUL. Way to glossy for the woods,but the bow is stunning. It just looks wet. I love the look of it. I will try to post a pic on this thread tonight if I get a second. rat'
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I have only done it on selfbows, but after removing the clear scales with tape (be sure you get all of them off!), I hand rub several coats of super glue and allow them dry between coats. Then when I am satisfied that I have the skins sealed real good with the CA glue I hand rub in 6 or 7 coats of Tru Oil.
I have a fiberglass bow that has copper head skins on the limbs and for whatever reason over the many years the finish has become "cloudy" making it very hard to see the skins. I wish I new what was used to finish this bow so I could relay what not to use!
Good luck with this project. I'd love to see a picture when you get er done!
K.C. <><
-------------------- Oklahoma Selfbow Society member Oklahoma Bowhunting Council member Posts: 268 | From: Oklahoma | Registered: Apr 2010
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I put a couple of coats of Tru Oil over my cottonmouth skins. I let that dry completely, and then shot a few coats of Helmsman Spar Urathane. They still look as good as the day I did them after a year. Will see how they hold up in the long run.
Posts: 1352 | From: London, Ohio | Registered: Nov 2009
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thanks for all the info...I think after doing a little more research, I'm going to forego the super glue and true oil and order up some tried and true thunderbird
Posts: 2859 | From: martville ny | Registered: Mar 2003
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I just skinned my Maddog with rattlers from Pine Hollow. I used Tru Oil. I had never done it before, and I had a lot of skin that would not lay down after the scales came off (refered to as dragon scales by riverrat above). The way I handled it was easy, I put two coats Truoil on then sanded. Two more coats, then I took the sharpest knife I could find and literally shaved the skin off where it was sticking up. Then I sanded it and intalled two more coats with steel wool between. I finished with matte acrylic clear. The result is glass smooth and you cannot tell where I shaved the stubborn skin off. I know the super glue would keep those down, but I was scared of the unfriendliness of the glue. If anyone wants pics I reckon I could figure out how to do that.
Posts: 143 | From: GA | Registered: Dec 2004
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I like that knife trick NEB. I have also used a disposable Bic razor that way. Here is my Canebrake job I was talking about in my above post. This is automotive clearcoat over the bow/skins.
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so I ordered some thunderbird from big jim...and after a little thought decided it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a couple coats of true oil on first. here's a few pics, scales are off skins are trimmed and one coat of true oil...not quite dry yet. Posts: 2859 | From: martville ny | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
I would forget about the super glue, any finish applied over it seems to crack or separate the two and leave a dull mark at the working part of the limbs. I would either spray poly over them or use tru oil.
Posts: 1179 | From: Minnesota | Registered: Mar 2009
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Looks great riverat! Those canebreaks change color a lot after you put them on dont they?Yours looks just like the ones i just put on my wifes bow,it was over black glass too. Larry those copperheads are coming along nice too.I have never put copperheads on but they should go on better than some as they are thin and have fine scales. I just about spewed coffee on my computer at riverats dragon scale remark,lol.
Posts: 295 | From: Repton ,Alabama | Registered: Nov 2010
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Kituwa,thanks for the compliment. rraming,you should post a pic of that eastern skinned bow of yours you did a while back....you know,the one that the skin still looks alive on the bow. That is probably the best eastern diamondback skin I have seen used. I never had any trouble with superglue. The pics I posted have quite a bit of superglue over them. I sand afterwards to "knock it down" a bit,but never any issues. I love the stuff.
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