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Author Topic: Need help deciding core wood
Bvas
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I have been following this thread out of curiosity to see what woods would be suggested. I have made only a handful of bows myself and find this subject very intriguing.
I don't know how much corewood affects the performance of a fiberglass bow, nor do I think that anyone else has a 100% guarantee on any specific differences in different woods.

And I want to start off by saying that I'm not arguing anybody's suggested wood type. Buuuuuut, if you have a fast design and want to smooth it out, that could be a completely different core from if you want to maintain performance but still be as smooth as possible.
Basically, wood that is heavy and flexible will be smooth. Wood that is light and stiff will yield higher speeds.

Wood that is light, stiff and bends smooth as silk...... that's the bowyers dream. And I believe it is called Mongolian Tulip Wood.

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Some hunt to survive; some survive to hunt

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Roy from Pa
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I think you are correct.. [Smile]
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Mike Mecredy
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I can't help with the chrony numbers, I don't have one. The high quality ones are pretty costly. I don't see the point in buying a piece of equipment for $300+ so it'll tell me that one bow is shooting 5 fps faster or slower than another. But having made as many bows as I have, and having shot them all, I've got a good idea of what performs great, what performs good, and what I wouldn't recommend using. It's very important to me that the bow I send my customer, performs as best as it can, so I tried several woods and bamboos and have learned what I can rely on. I've shot fast bows and slow bows, and after shooting several thousand (mine and other's) I can tell what is and isn't.

A simple test I do with laminations when I make them, is I'll bend it around into a full circle, them let it go and if it springs back to the straight shape it was before I did it, then it's a good material. I can do that because I usually use full length laminations. The woods that are slow to string back, can have too much moisture, or just not have the compression/tension strength I need. Those ones will still work but the bow will perform sluggishly.

Chronograph numbers are great and all, and I'm not saying you're "that guy" Riser, but in the end, guys would still be "taking my word for it" I've seen others do it, and the data still wasn't "good enough". (another reason I don't spend the $$ on a chrony)

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-Maddog
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cacciatore
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Mike I see you a chrony will tell you the speed of a already made limb with your metod you'll know before the wood becomes a limb

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Mike Mecredy
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I've never, (other than in my sub conscious) applied that logic to it, but it makes sense.

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-Maddog
TGMM Family of the bow

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Two Tracks
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I would lean toward agreeing with Mike. But i will go that one step further.
After building and shooting several 1000 bows, with all manner of materials, in any given design, any of the good materials will shoot very close.
Bad materials will shoot poorer.
I still think that design and build execution are most vital.
Some designs like certain materials better than others, some are not fussy at all.
Feel, sound, speed, looks....Takes a skill to bring it all together and there is generally a fine line for the trade offs.
Thats why I like bow making and talking bow making.

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Trout man
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I think Bamboo is the smoothest wood,but Yew is right p there
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mec lineman
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Most boaters tend to agree on this topic. From my limited experience, I also think design is paramount. For example I currently own a fantastic shooting bow in all categories that sports one thick lam of HICKORY.

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"Pick a spot,now aim 6" lower!" Northern Mist Baraga , Kota Killum, Tall Tines Stickflinger ,Omega Imperial & Ten Ring strings

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mec lineman
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Most bowyers tend to agree on this topic. From my limited experience, I also think design is paramount. For example I currently own a fantastic shooting bow in all categories that sports one thick lam of HICKORY.

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"Pick a spot,now aim 6" lower!" Northern Mist Baraga , Kota Killum, Tall Tines Stickflinger ,Omega Imperial & Ten Ring strings

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NBK
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I've found the best core wood to be what the bowyer making it recommends.

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Mike


"I belong anywhere but in between"

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Mike Mecredy
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I can't argue about hickory, I use it sometimes, especialy if it's got some tight growth rings. Flat grain even looks good with clear glass too. (no veneers required)

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-Maddog
TGMM Family of the bow

Maddog Archery
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snag
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quote:
Originally posted by The Whittler:
I bet 90+% if blind folded would not be able to tell the difference drawing any of those woods in the limbs.

It's all about the bowyer and how the bow/limbs are made/tillered.

Truer words have not been spoken

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Mike Mecredy
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The fact still remain; some species of wood are better than other species of wood when it comes to making good bow limbs.

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-Maddog
TGMM Family of the bow

Maddog Archery
USAF, Retired
Minidoka Bowmen
A.C.B.C.S.

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snag
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How much better is the question.

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Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.
Wilderness Custom Arrows

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Bvas
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quote:
Originally posted by snag:
How much better is the question.

Better at what?
Speed? Smoothness? Quietness?

The topic is open to debate as much as "which is the best broadhead?". Just about any wood will make a bow. Especially when sandwiched between fiberglass. Some woods may excel in certain categories or in certain bow designs.

Finding the perfect wood for the perfect design is like searching for the holy grail. Kinda hope I never find the grail. I'm havin too much fun on the search.

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Some hunt to survive; some survive to hunt

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