posted
I was wondering if anybody would care to share their plans for making a point and nock taper jig for a belt sander? I've searched through the "How To" section and didn't see anything in there. Thanks in advance-
Posts: 106 | From: Minnesota | Registered: Aug 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
If you have belt snader/disc sander combo, this might help. If not, sorry to waste your time.
-------------------- "If I was afraid of a challenge, I'd put sights on my bow!" Posts: 1444 | From: Clarkston, Michigan | Registered: Feb 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
Thanks for the pictures guys. Eric- I am thinking of making something just like that. I have the disc/belt combo. In fact, I think I have the same one from the looks of it. If you'd be so kind as to give me a bit more detail on how you made the guides and marked the angles, I'd really appreciate it.
posted
Here is the latest incarnation of my taper jig. The one in the first picture was stolen along with my sander and jointer while we were moving stuff into a new house. Knew who did it but couldn't prove it.
I bought a 6"X48" Griz and built this jig for tapering.I am a measure once and cut twice person so I made a base to fit my miter slot, drew a 5 degree angled line on the base for point tapers put a piece of plywood one the line with one screw attaching it to the base so I could pivot it. I used a scrap piece of shaft to test my taper. I would taper the shaft and fit it into a dirty field point and check to see if the rust from the point covered the entire taper.It took several adjustments to get it perfect, then I secured the guide to the base with several wood screws. I repeated the process with the guide for the nock taper set at 11.5 degrees. I put roll pins in the edge of the jig to act as stops for the shaft but set them for a 11/32 shaft and now make tapered or barrel tapered shafts with 5/16" nock ends and don't use the stops anymore. After tapering a zillion shafts I don't need the stops and get them even every time.
I should add I squared up the whole jig after I put all the pieces together. I slid the side facing the disc through the sander to get a perfect fit.
posted
Thanks for the replies everybody. I knew it was 11 degrees and something... Glad I asked before trying myself!
Posts: 122 | From: Minnesota | Registered: Sep 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
Gosh, there are many ways to do it. But a belt/disc sander is a good way to start. Mine is a bit different than any I've seen but it is very accurate and can adjust to any nock or point
Nock
Point
-------------------- Retired USAF (1966 - 1989) Retired DoD Civilian (1989 - 2009) And drawing Social Security! I love this country ;-) Posts: 5696 | From: Live Oak, Texas | Registered: Mar 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
Tex, I shoot aluminum arrows. Had to make one set of woodies for one shoot that I attend once a year. Get the notion that this is a one-time deal? The guided only work for 11/32 diameter cause that's all I ever intend to make. I like Eric's for simplicity. It'll take any diamter. Like Eric, I don't use the stop any more. Even before I'd made a dozen, it was EASY to eyeball the length of the tapers. Basically I'd eyeball the skinny diameter at the end of the taper, since you don't want a point.
-------------------- "If I was afraid of a challenge, I'd put sights on my bow!" Posts: 1444 | From: Clarkston, Michigan | Registered: Feb 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
TexMex, I forgot to clarify the yellow thing. It is a depth stop that I had around the shop. Made to tighten around a drill bit, but I clamped it on the shaft to limit the amount of taper. It is soft plastic and just twists to tighten. As I said above, only used it on 3 or 4, then just eyeballed them.
-------------------- "If I was afraid of a challenge, I'd put sights on my bow!" Posts: 1444 | From: Clarkston, Michigan | Registered: Feb 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
Their's some really good ideas here. Thanks for all the posts. I am going to make something up this weekend.
Posts: 122 | From: Minnesota | Registered: Sep 2003
| IP: Logged |