posted
Figured it was time to do a tute on mounting flint heads. There are several types of flint heads of which I don't know the technical names of the bases but I call them flint heads with tangs, with side notches or with base notches. I mount them all the same it's just the sinew wrapping that's different. Here are some of the things you'll need, a shaft (this one is wild rose), a flint head (I'll be using the tanged model for this tute), some sinew, a pencil, some pine pitch (pine sap and charcoal mix)or some medium grade CA glue (which is what I use these days for the most part).
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
The thinner the head the easier it is to cut your slot to mount.
Some guys just use a V notch. I use a slot cut specifically for each head. I do this by laying the head on the shaft and tracing around it.
Make sure you mount it deep enough so that the end of the shaft is at least 1/4" past where your tie off or side notches will be for support
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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Then I use a scroll saw (you could also do this by hand with a coping saw) and cut on my lines
it should come out something like this
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Trial fit your head and if it doesn't fit use some sandpaper to remove stock that is obstructing it
with a little hand sanding you should easily get the head to fit
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Now remove the head and using either your hand sandpaper or a bench belt sander sand the ends of the shaft down to match your head which will make it penetrate easier and look nicer
It should look like this
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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At this point if you are using pine pitch heat up a glob and stick it on the back of your flint and slide it in the slot and make sure it is aligned properly and will spin true...adjust if necessary, if you are using the CA glue put the head back in the slot, align, make sure it spins properly and dribble some ca glue in from both sides. Set aside to dry/cure for a spell. It should be noted that pine pitch is more traditional and will fill in the gaps between the shaft and head better than the CA glue will. The CA glue is just easier and "not quite as messy". Both however will hold the head in place.
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Next take a strand of sinew and either moisten it and dip in hide glue or pop it in your mouth and chew on it awhile (thanks for the tip PatB)
Once moistened, start wrapping up next to the head and keep wraping tightly around the shaft until you use the whole strand. If you need more to cover the slot and part of the shaft use more.
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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Set aside to dry for awhile and then cover your sinew with some tite bond 3, some super glue or something to help waterproof the sinew
Here's a group of flint headed arrows that I just finished for a Texas hunt..notice how the sinew wrapping on some is actually on the blades. This is necessary when there are no notches or tang to wrap around
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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No Talondale, it is some kind of red flint.
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Here are a couple with side notches and no notches. Notice how the sinew wrapping is done to anchor the head to the shaft.
BTW if you look at the bottom gray head in the pic above you can see it was mounted with the pine pitch (black gooey stuff), the top white one with the CA glue.
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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Thanks David, the blade for that was knapped by Roy Boggs here on tradgang, a very talented knapper.
-------------------- There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach Posts: 12891 | From: Cincinnati, Ohio | Registered: Mar 2003
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-------------------- “I read somewhere of how important it is in life, not necessarily to be strong, but to feel strong. To measure yourself at least once.” -Alexander Supertramp
"Shoot this for me." -Chuck Nelson Posts: 1933 | From: Saratoga County, NY | Registered: Aug 2004
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