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» Trad Gang.com » Topic Archives » How To - Resources » Decorative Arrow Rack Build-a- Long......Finished (Page 2)

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Author Topic: Decorative Arrow Rack Build-a- Long......Finished
Oliverstacy
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That arrow rack is one of the nicest if not the best I have ever seen. I love the broadhead slots.

Well done...

Josh

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Custom Flemish Strings by Oliverstacy!
Kanati 60" 57@29"
AP Cumberland 66" 58@29"
WhisperStik KajikaStik 56" Recurve with Canebrakes...57@28"
WhisperStik KajikaStik aka "Wormy" RC & LB,both 55@29"
Martin Savannah 50@28"
Kota Kill-um 55@28"

Posts: 2169 | From: Livonia, Michigan | Registered: Jul 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Chris Surtees
Contributor 2010
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[clapper] [clapper] [clapper]
Posts: 8060 | From: Georgia | Registered: Jul 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
gsdmikko
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great job [thumbsup] [thumbsup]

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Follow Your Dreams
" It's better to die Livin'
Than live Dyin "

Posts: 261 | From: Whitewater, Co | Registered: Feb 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wile E. Coyote
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Member # 745

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Realign the top board over the bottom board and clamp.(check where you marked under boards to insure front is to front) and drill out corners of the top board with a 15/16" drill bit. Drill just deep enough to mark the lower board.
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If you got too busy while drilling and ended up accidently drilling through one of the corners when making your shafts holes on the top board, don't fret. (Hey I did it too!) A 23/64" shaft fits nice and tight and with a little glue you have a plug that can be cut, smoothed, and drilled.

Remove top board and drill bottom board through at the corners.

Complete final sanding of both top and bottom boards.

With a small amount of glue on the surface of the short table legs, screw them firmly onto the underside of the bottom board.
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Wayne LaBauve

"Learn to wish that everything should come to pass exactly as it does."

Posts: 573 | From: Pearl River LA | Registered: Apr 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jerry Wald
Contributor 2010
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WOW niccccccccccccccccce

Can I just get the arrows...tee hee

you should make it a kit like Ikea and you would have your cottage industry.

Jer Bear

Posts: 1608 | From: Whitehorse, Yukon | Registered: Jan 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wile E. Coyote
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The length of the legs in the next step is dictated by how long of an arrow you are going to store in your rack. It is best to set an arrow on the bottom board and measure the distance that you will need between the boards to give the feathers adequate clearance above the top board.

Using the 25" legs I cut the bottom portion (which will become the top portion) at the grooved ring farthest from the end.
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This resulted in a 22"long leg which provided adequate clearance for 5" feathers of my 29" long arrows. Again adjust this height as needed.

Each portion of the cut leg was then sanded to insure it was flat.
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At this point I chose to stain the project. My reasoning was that A)It would be easier working with the individual pieces rather than the entire finished project and B) To prevent stain from the top board dripping through the shaft holes onto the bottom board.

The longer legs are now screwed into the top of the bottom board. No glue is necessary, but if you choose to do so, I do not recommend gluing these legs until you are ready to follow up with the next several steps ending with the placement of the top board and end caps. Otherwise, with the glue set, the top may not align with the post and the glue joint will have to be broken to force it into alignment.
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Next the holes in the corners of the top board which you drilled out with a 15/64" bit are widened using a 1/4" bit. This is to allow for the easy passage of the baluster fastener.
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Drill a centered hole into each of the cut off sections of the 4 legs and the cut off tops with a 3/16" drill bit. You only need to drill about 1" deep.
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Although this is not a picture of the kit, you can purchase a kit with 4 fasteners and the driver together.
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Align the corner holes of the top board over the drilled holes in the legs and drive the baluster fasteners in all corners.
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Align and tighten top post (cut off sections of leg) onto the baluster fasteners.

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If you are not proceeding with the antler option, finish your project with some rub on polyurethane.

I will post Antler Option tomorrow. Thanks for the kind words.

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Wayne LaBauve

"Learn to wish that everything should come to pass exactly as it does."

Posts: 573 | From: Pearl River LA | Registered: Apr 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wile E. Coyote
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ANTLER OPTION

If at all possible try to utilize a rack that is fairly uniform so that the sides match.

First with the antlers cut off, position it on the top board with the base towards the rear and tines pointing out away from the project. Adjust the tilt of the antler to the desired angle and mentally note that appearance.
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Using the belt sander, sand the base to the angle desired. Sand, recheck angle on project, sand, recheck, until you have the angle desired.
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Once angle is achieved, lightly draw the outline of the horn base onto the top board.
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Mark center of this outline and drill.Initially use a bit the same size that you will use to drill pilot hole into the antler to accept screw to anchor onto base.

Now, with the antler held in place drill from the underside of the board into the antler.
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Drill out hole in board large enough to allow easy passage of screw then insert screw from under top board and screw into antler.

The antlers serve as a great place to hang your gloves, armguards, tabs, quiver, etc.
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Hope that you found this tutorial helpful and wish you many happy days afield.
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Wayne LaBauve

"Learn to wish that everything should come to pass exactly as it does."

Posts: 573 | From: Pearl River LA | Registered: Apr 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Orion
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Nicely done. [thumbsup]
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Tique
Contributor 2007
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Thanks for sharing Wayne; that's an awesome looking arrow rack. Are you taking orders yet? [thumbsup] [thumbsup]

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Untested ideas are not facts.

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Tim Fishell
Contributor 2007
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That is awesome and a pretty neet project. Thanks for the build-along!! [thumbsup]

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Dreams can not be bought; they are free to those who have lived. -Mike Mitten

We must go beyond the textbooks, go out into the untrodden depths of the wilderness & travel & explore & tell the world the glories of our journey

TGMM Family of the Bow

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Hartlines
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Very nice!!!
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snag
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The antlers are a very nice touch! Yep, I'm doing this project. Thanks!

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Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.
Wilderness Custom Arrows

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3blades
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Nice addition to any man cave! Sweet!

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60's Bear Cub 45#@28"
Samick Stingray 50#@28"
Hickory self bow 55#@28"
HH Big 5 Longbow 65#@28"
Bears paw T/D LB 75#@28"

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Over&Under
Contributor 2012
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quote:
Originally posted by snag:
The antlers are a very nice touch! Thanks!

My thoughts exactly!
Nice Job! [thumbsup]

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“Elk are not hard to hit....they're just easy to miss" [Smile]

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LA Trapper
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Great job Wayne. As usual, very creative. Are you going to the banquet this year?

Billy

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Lifetime Member Bayou State Bowhunters
Lifetime Member Louisiana Traditional Bowmen

The path of least resistance is what makes men and rivers crooked.

Posts: 551 | From: Natchitoches, Louisiana | Registered: Dec 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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