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I wanted to try the hard steel of a replaceable blade broadhead so I dug out an old Thunderhead 150 two blade.
It still had bits of debris from a coyote I sent it through some 25 years ago. A pass through shot, it too showed signs of getting up close and personal with the Wyoming landscape.
I clamped a blade in the broadhead jig and gave it 5 light passes on the coarse side of the diamond hone and 5 even lighter passes on the fine side. I think it is sharper than it was when new.
One thing I learned a long time ago, is when sharpening don't bear down on the head and jig. This can cause uneven pressure and slight changes of angle which actually rounds the edge... you don't want that happening.
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I jigged up the Journeyman, Grizzly and STOS and all three were a piece of cake. The curved edge of the Journeyman took the most "technique" but was really very easy to sharpen.
The Grizzly El Grande took a little technique as well due to it's extra long length. I treated it just like I mentioned I would previously and got a super sharp edge.
In fairness I must admit that it was an old head that had long ago had it's grind angle changed so I don't know how long it might take to change a factory grind if that's what a fella thinks he has to do.
The STOS went even easier than my Magnus I's. Something about the long narrow profile makes the transition between single layer and triple layer less of a problem.
[ June 12, 2009, 08:41 AM: Message edited by: Charlie Lamb ]
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I believe it's a good idea to learn how to use a file in the field and I don't hesitate to use one if need be.... it's an old guys idea of a facet of the bowhunters craft.
There are a lot of easy and handy ways to field sharpen broadheads during the hunt.
I do believe, however, that putting on a uniform razor edge at home makes field touch up simpler and more effective whatever method you use.
This system brings a broadhead or knife to a razor like edge with minimal stock removal and that increases the longevity of those tools. No more mishapen out of balance broadheads or knives that look like they were rubbed on a field rock.
I'm about done, so if you have questions ask away. If I don't know the answer, I'll just call Ron.
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Good stuff Charlie. The only thing I will add is that when you start with a Grizzley New out of the pack it is a lot easier and faster to use a file to get a working angle on the blade. Then go to the jig to get it razor sharp. This also saves on the life of your stones. Also using a marker will help you see where the metal is coming off and how much. Thank you very much for this thread. I think I'll go sharpen something.
quote:Originally posted by Charlie Lamb: ... Don't ever sharpen your wife's kitchen knives. She won't appreciate it and she WILL cut herself... within seconds of the time you finish....
absolutely true. used my kme to sharpen a few serrated cutco knives for the wife, told her 3 times they were razor sharp, and she promptly drove one deep into her finger. women, go figure.
btw, for those first serrated knives that i kme sharpened, i only worked the blade itself, not the serrations. i've since acquired a dmt pointy tapered diamond rod that works great on serrated blade.
-------------------- "Molon Labe" (Come and Get Them) ~ Instinctive Archer Magazine ~ NRA Life Member ~ TGMM Family of the Bow Posts: 8867 | From: NJ | Registered: Mar 2003
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Question about the Grizzly...just saying that word makes me cringe at the thought of all the time I spent last year changing the angle of those broadheads and trying to get them sharp....
If I could go back in time and try to start over again could the KME be used with a file to change that angle so that it is a precise grind? The roller option on the clamp seems like it would just glide along the table edge while your file is clamped down.
Chris
-------------------- Life ain't a dress rehearsal. Posts: 970 | From: Weston, MO | Registered: Apr 2003
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quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by Charlie Lamb: ... Don't ever sharpen your wife's kitchen knives. She won't appreciate it and she WILL cut herself... within seconds of the time you finish....
I respectfully disagree. I've seen a lot more kitchen cuts from dull knives being forced to cut something than from sharp ones. Now I'll admit that my wife is very particular about her knives, but she's dowright appreciative when I get them really sharp.
-------------------- Don't meddle in the affairs of dragons; people are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.
TGMM Family of the Bow Posts: 991 | From: Narberth, PA | Registered: Mar 2004
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Thanks Charlie for the info / help on the Simmons head.
I think that you could only use the KME knife sharpening version for Simmons, the broadhead version would not work ??? You would have no way to take into account the concave edge.
How bout it Ron..... Develop a round course diamond tool for your wonderful system to set the angle and remove metal when needed and then a round ceramic or fine diamond for finishing ? I know Simmons are no longer made, but there are tons of them out there that need KME sharp edges ! Also the round tools would work on any CONVEX heads like Charlie was working on, the Journeyman for example.
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For the KME are the regular stones good or are the diamonds better?
-------------------- We do not rise to the occasion. We fall to our level of training. Posts: 402 | From: Southern Michigan | Registered: Nov 2008
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Can't answer for everyone. . . but I got the regular stones and just ONE coarse diamond stone. The coarse diamond really takes off the metal of the many edges I screwed up before this. Once the edge is right, the regular stones do the scarey sharp thing.
-------------------- After cursing through every slice and missed shot on the first nine holes, a golf partner said to his frustrated and cursing partner, "I think I can tell you your problem." "Really?" "You just aren't that good." Posts: 1778 | From: Kansas | Registered: Feb 2004
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quote:Originally posted by IronCreekArcher: For the KME are the regular stones good or are the diamonds better?
my kme uses all diamond hones, and i prefer those simply because they cut really fast and only require a bit of water for lube, and clean up with water and a bit of soap.
without a doubt, after messing around with too many other knife/broadhead sharpening 'systems', the kme is absolute better than them all.
for the most part, all ya need is the kme knife sharpener - it'll do yer broadheads just as easily as it does yer knives.
what the arrow is to the bow, the kme is to the broadhead. like charlie sez, penetration is all about sharp broadheads - most any trad broadhead - just pick one out and do the proper thing: get that sucker razor shaving sharp!
-------------------- "Molon Labe" (Come and Get Them) ~ Instinctive Archer Magazine ~ NRA Life Member ~ TGMM Family of the Bow Posts: 8867 | From: NJ | Registered: Mar 2003
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IronCreek... KSdan has a good approach to your question. Other than that, it's pretty much personal choice.
You can go to a much finer grit with the regular stones...hard Arkansas.
DragonRider... of course I was just being cute with my statement about wives and knives. I don't mean to categorize women at all. Lots of women who appreciate finely honed kitchen knives, hunting knives and broadheads. Of course my statement DOES support my own experience.
Nightowl1...Just tell her it's not an expense, but an investment. This is a lifetime tool.
Nocams... the knife sharpener does work as in my test and the broadhead sharpener wouldn't with "flat stones"... you'd end up ruining the stone.
Chris... I'll check and see if the broadhead sharpener could be used with a file. I have my doubts but it might.
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