Thanks for posting this. I would've never thought of using a block of styrofoam. Does sticking them into the foam take off some of the stain at the ends? Where do you get this aniline dye and how long does it take to dry?
I made my first batch a little over a month ago and hung them to dry on a clothesline using clothes pins. I guess I brushed on too much of the minwax poly stain/sealant with a brush, because they were dripping all over the ground.
Posts: 203 | From: Texas | Registered: Dec 2009
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quote:Originally posted by Ed Q: Thanks for posting this. I would've never thought of using a block of styrofoam. Does sticking them into the foam take off some of the stain at the ends?
probably. don't matter. remember, all finishing is done with full 32" length shafts! i'm gonna whack off over 2" for my 29.5" final length arras.
Where do you get this aniline dye and how long does it take to dry?
i get the aniline dye stain in powder from www.reranch.com - my primary, almost daily use is in staining guitar wood. it can be mixed with either water or alcohol but i prefer water as wiping it on (as opposed to airbrushing it on - i do that, too) blends it all in better.
I made my first batch a little over a month ago and hung them to dry on a clothesline using clothes pins.
i also have a 36 pin clothespin drying rack in my shop, but a block of any kinda stiff foam is much easier to use - you always want the drying shaft kept with nock up and pointed end down, to allow any running of finish towards the pointy end.
I guess I brushed on too much of the minwax poly stain/sealant with a brush, because they were dripping all over the ground.
don't use a brush for any kinda finish on arrow shafting - either wipe or dip. i used to dip and made arrows far too pretty to fly, but wiping is so much easier, faster, cheaper and pretty darn good lookin', too!
Rob, Thank you for a great Tutorial, with new ideas and instruction that is A1. Your pictures and explanations are great and you are helping a lot of us out here. I look forward to the rest of your instruction. Looks like there will be a lot more woodies in our quivers this year! Thanks again!
Posts: 382 | From: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: Sep 2007
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quote:Originally posted by Dave Earley: Let us know your secrets for ensuring perfect nock and broadhead alignment !
there really are no secrets.
first, make sure the shaft is as true as can be by rolling on a dead flat surface (i use a corian kitchen counter). any high points need to be heated (hair dryer or heat gun) and compressed (screwdriver, hook, or my fave - a dunlop 925 steel guitar slide, using the finger groove on the shaft).
cut good tapers for both the nock and point.
push on the nock and rotate/spin the shaft to see of the nock is true. if so, glue on the nock... if not, adjust the nock taper (sand very little at a time) until it pushes on and spins true, then glue it on permanently.
push on the point and spin the shaft on the point. adjust as above until the shaft spins true on the point. hot melt glue in place.
woodies are so much more work than carbs or alums.
Really nice Rob,this will help out alot of people.
-------------------- Dreams are made taller than we are. Never stop reaching! WTA member PBS Associate Member Pope and Young Club Posts: 321 | From: Waunakee, Wisconsin | Registered: Feb 2007
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