posted
Just bought four shafts and nocks. I start tonight!
I'm building arrows for the "Arrow if Light" Award.
Do you have any advise for a blue stain? I was thinking yellow feathers and a white nock. I have walnut stain for the front portion and plan on cresting the transition in Boy Scout red with green pinstripe.
Thanks for the inspiration!
Martin
-------------------- *************************************************************** If you are early, you are on time. If you are on time, you are late. If you are late, don't show up. Posts: 586 | From: Spring City, PA | Registered: Oct 2007
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quote:Originally posted by mmisciag: Just bought four shafts and nocks. I start tonight!
I'm building arrows for the "Arrow if Light" Award.
Do you have any advise for a blue stain? I was thinking yellow feathers and a white nock. I have walnut stain for the front portion and plan on cresting the transition in Boy Scout red with green pinstripe.
Thanks for the inspiration!
Martin
way cool, have fun.
i just checked, 3rivers has a nice assortment of stains for $5.40/each and they're water based ...
-------------------- "Molon Labe" (Come and Get Them) ~ Instinctive Archer Magazine ~ TGMM Family of the Bow ~ NRA Life Member Posts: 8857 | From: NJ | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Out of band, you and I are gonna need to talk about guitars.
Thanks!
Martin
-------------------- *************************************************************** If you are early, you are on time. If you are on time, you are late. If you are late, don't show up. Posts: 586 | From: Spring City, PA | Registered: Oct 2007
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posted
I have always been a dip person until recently then I began to spray. ( To much waste ) This is GREAT STUFF Rob!!!! Can't wait to see more...... Thanks
Posts: 933 | From: California | Registered: Jan 2006
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Great post, but I have never found crafting woodies to be cheap (in time) or easy (labor intensive).
Straightening the shafts is absolutely paramount to the "good". This is also where the saying you can't make a silk purse out of sow's ear comes to mind.
Have you had trouble with the poly coating sticking in targets and get all mucked up? I have noticed this with 3-d and bale type targets. It is like the heat from the friction melts the poly as it is penetrating.
I like to use a mixture of acetone and two ton epoxy for the final coating. Must apply in well ventilated area and wear gloves. But the finish is hard and very durable. 3:1 ratio works for yeoman shafts in 2-3 coats. A 6:1 results in a thinner mixture but takes more coats to apply, and results in a nicer finish.
I have recovered lost arrows in my canyon after being exposed to the elements. The poly seems to peel easier while the epoxy finsh is very tough and holds up better.
-------------------- *Archery- how far you can be from your target and still hit it. *Bowhunting- How close you can be before you shoot. Posts: 135 | From: Black Hills, SD | Registered: Aug 2007
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Great post, but I have never found crafting woodies to be cheap (in time) or easy (labor intensive).
i like to think that my method is the easiest and bestest of all the methods out there, yet still produce a good lookin', durable arrow
Straightening the shafts is absolutely paramount to the "good". This is also where the saying you can't make a silk purse out of sow's ear comes to mind.
earlier today i added a segment to the 1st post on straightening wood
Have you had trouble with the poly coating sticking in targets and get all mucked up?
nope, not at all
I have noticed this with 3-d and bale type targets. It is like the heat from the friction melts the poly as it is penetrating.
yes, i've heard that can occur
I like to use a mixture of acetone and two ton epoxy for the final coating.
yep, the 'massey finish'
Must apply in well ventilated area and wear gloves. But the finish is hard and very durable. 3:1 ratio works for yeoman shafts in 2-3 coats. A 6:1 results in a thinner mixture but takes more coats to apply, and results in a nicer finish.
I have recovered lost arrows in my canyon after being exposed to the elements. The poly seems to peel easier while the epoxy finsh is very tough and holds up better.
the diluted epoxy finish is best, but not for everyone to use ... and one must consider that the roving/hunting lifespan of a woodie is less than a carb or alum. min-wax wipe-on polyu is still the easiest, fastest woodie clear coat, and it's quite durable. imo. ymmv.
-------------------- "Molon Labe" (Come and Get Them) ~ Instinctive Archer Magazine ~ TGMM Family of the Bow ~ NRA Life Member Posts: 8857 | From: NJ | Registered: Mar 2003
| IP: Logged |
Great post, but I have never found crafting woodies to be cheap (in time) or easy (labor intensive).
i like to think that my method is the easiest and bestest of all the methods out there, yet still produce a good lookin', durable arrow
Straightening the shafts is absolutely paramount to the "good". This is also where the saying you can't make a silk purse out of sow's ear comes to mind.
earlier today i added a segment to the 1st post on straightening wood
Have you had trouble with the poly coating sticking in targets and get all mucked up?
nope, not at all
I have noticed this with 3-d and bale type targets. It is like the heat from the friction melts the poly as it is penetrating.
yes, i've heard that can occur
I like to use a mixture of acetone and two ton epoxy for the final coating.
yep, the 'massey finish'
Must apply in well ventilated area and wear gloves. But the finish is hard and very durable. 3:1 ratio works for yeoman shafts in 2-3 coats. A 6:1 results in a thinner mixture but takes more coats to apply, and results in a nicer finish.
I have recovered lost arrows in my canyon after being exposed to the elements. The poly seems to peel easier while the epoxy finsh is very tough and holds up better.
the diluted SLOW SET epoxy finish is best, but not for everyone to use ... and one must consider that the roving/hunting lifespan of a woodie is less than a carb or alum. min-wax wipe-on polyu is still the easiest, fastest woodie clear coat, and it's quite durable. imo. ymmv.
-------------------- "Molon Labe" (Come and Get Them) ~ Instinctive Archer Magazine ~ TGMM Family of the Bow ~ NRA Life Member Posts: 8857 | From: NJ | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
fourth and final wipe of clear on all 12 shafts, cured nicely overnight.
stained and cleared, cleared only, raw wood - shown so you can see the color differences ...
... you can see that clear alone will mute the brightness of raw wood.
push a nock onto one of the shafts (don't glue!), set the nock into the finishing nail of yer shaft/arrow sizing jig ...
... and mark at the length to cut the shaft down to arrow size. you want to make that mark at 3/4" more than the final length of each arrow. i want these woodies to be 29-1/4" long, so i made a pencil mark at 30" ...
... mark up for each shaft first. then cut the shaft right at the mark, either by rolling a knife on the cut line mark and scoring deeply before snapping off the excess, or cut off with a saw blade ...
add the point taper ...
after all the shafts have been point tapered, i like to put some finish/sealer on the freshly cut point tapers. either some clear polyu, or duco cement. or, as i just did, by wicking in some water thin cya (CYAnocrylate super glue) - this seals and hardens the point taper at the same time.
next up - fletching!
-------------------- "Molon Labe" (Come and Get Them) ~ Instinctive Archer Magazine ~ TGMM Family of the Bow ~ NRA Life Member Posts: 8857 | From: NJ | Registered: Mar 2003
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-------------------- "Molon Labe" (Come and Get Them) ~ Instinctive Archer Magazine ~ TGMM Family of the Bow ~ NRA Life Member Posts: 8857 | From: NJ | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Gotta love this site. Rob I do die some shafts, but the cresting is where I always mess it up. I have used paint, markers, sharpies and so far either the ink has ran or lines not straight. Alway's something wrong with my crest. All that just to say I am watching you. Thanks for shorting my learning curve on many things dealing with a stick bow.
Posts: 170 | From: cove,missouri | Registered: Nov 2008
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