posted
4est trekker I have question regarding the handle. On my frist failed board bow I felt the handle section was a tad to small for my hand. I like the updated handle idea on page 21. When I shape the handle can I just round the fades more or do I have to change the width of the limb too?
Posts: 2143 | From: utah | Registered: Feb 2009
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posted
Twitchstick: You can round the fades more in the non-working (i.e. thicker) section. I hope that helps.
-------------------- "Walk softly...and carry a bent stick."
"And whatever you do, whether in word or deed, do it all in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ, giving thanks to God the Father through him." Col. 3:17 Posts: 1172 | From: Nebraska | Registered: Aug 2009
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posted
I came along recently and found this build-along. I recently retired and have a little time on my hands so I figured I could pass some of it by giving this a try.
I didn't take any pictures during the basic building steps but I did make a bit of a video when I first tested the bow (linked in here).
I used a 1 x 3 instead of a 1x4 and left the limbs about .480".
Here's a video of the first shots and a little of the bow.
posted
Nice looking bow, seems to shoot well also. Congrats!!
-------------------- Always say what you mean, that way people will know you mean what you say. Posts: 547 | From: Arkansas | Registered: Dec 2010
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posted
Looking at this build, I am wondering about the recurve style tips. Do they have to be same wood or can they be layered with other woods mainly for cosmetics.
Matt
-------------------- Matt Posts: 314 | From: Central IL | Registered: Feb 2011
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posted
the glued on micro recurves are non working so they can be any type of wood you want.
Posts: 137 | From: Indiana | Registered: Nov 2010
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posted
I am new to tradgang. I have been shooting traditional for about 20 years now and have finally become interested in trying to make my own bow. I want to have that connection that only making your own could have. I am in Vancouver Washington and was wondering if you know anyone close enough to drive to for a class. I don't want to " wing it" for the first bow. I need to learn some before trying it on my own. I would appreciate any help.
-------------------- mike Posts: 7 | From: vancouver,washington | Registered: Feb 2011
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posted
A question for 4est or whoever can answer: What about a pyramid red oak bow that's about 1 1/4 inch at fades to 1/2 inch at tips? Will this work if i make the belly thin/flat enough? Should i use the pyramid uniform thickness, or more of a tapered thickness with these width dimensions? I'm using a piece i was gonna layout for a somewhat elb profile for my wife, but she wants a handle with fades, etc., so i'm changing it up. Wanna keep the draw light for now, bout 20-25#.
-------------------- Kevin
"he hath bent his bow, and made it ready . . .his arrow shall go forth as the lightning" - Psalm 7:12, Zech. 9:14 Posts: 346 | From: Texas | Registered: Jan 2011
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posted
I think I built one pretty close to that about a year and a half ago and it turned out nice....had about a thousand shots or more run through it. I think it might be about 28# at 28in.
Posts: 207 | From: Iraan Texas | Registered: Oct 2009
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