posted
Bob, ya got a router with a V bit and a protractor?
YES? - make one
-------------------- "I dont want to overthrow the government, I wanna Fire'em!"- Gallagher Technolgy-The knowledge of arranging things so we dont have to actually experience them. If you want people to listen to what you have to say, dont talk so much! Posts: 2574 | From: Manton Michigan | Registered: Mar 2006
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-------------------- "I dont want to overthrow the government, I wanna Fire'em!"- Gallagher Technolgy-The knowledge of arranging things so we dont have to actually experience them. If you want people to listen to what you have to say, dont talk so much! Posts: 2574 | From: Manton Michigan | Registered: Mar 2006
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quote:Originally posted by WESTBROOK: Putting on a rear shaft taper.
Do you have a full picture of the set up for rear shaft taper on he belt sander? Im curious as to how you maintain the proper angle to get a gradual taper down to the nock end. Are you tapering from 11/32 to 5/16? Thanks
-------------------- Shoot Straight, Feel Great! Posts: 292 | From: PA | Registered: Jun 2012
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posted
Westbrook, if you could ,Please post some hints and tips on belt sander , how you spin arrow and how to be consistent in obtaining same measurement on tip from arrow to arrow. Please and Thank You, Ken
posted
UDS...the little piece of luan has a small hole drilled in it, I lay a 5/16 (2018) shaft on the belt and line it up with the hole, this sets the nock diameter.
Then I just put some light pencil marks at 9-10" up the shaft. Fire up the sander, put the nock point in the hole and slowly lower the shaft(constantly rotating it) onto the belt. Keep lowering the shaft till you reach you marks on the shaft...thats it.
Probably the most critical part is to make sure your shafts are ABSOLUTELY STRAIGHT as possible.
-------------------- "I dont want to overthrow the government, I wanna Fire'em!"- Gallagher Technolgy-The knowledge of arranging things so we dont have to actually experience them. If you want people to listen to what you have to say, dont talk so much! Posts: 2574 | From: Manton Michigan | Registered: Mar 2006
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posted
Westbrook ! A huge Thank You! I have been trying to rig something up for this , and this is exactly what I needed. I'm off to the races now . Ken
posted
Chuck your shaft into a drill motor to rotate the shaft. Pay attention and be careful. CTT
-------------------- C.A.Deshler
"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter.” Francis Chan http://twotracksbow.com Posts: 4860 | From: Michigan | Registered: Feb 2009
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I wouldnt suggest trying to use a drill or anything else to spin the shaft, the weight will tend to bow the shaft and will lead to inconsistencies. With a little practice you will do just fine spinning them by hand.
You can move the shaft from side to side on the belt while gringing without effecting anything and you wont clog the belt in front of the nock whole.
Glad I can help!
Eric
-------------------- "I dont want to overthrow the government, I wanna Fire'em!"- Gallagher Technolgy-The knowledge of arranging things so we dont have to actually experience them. If you want people to listen to what you have to say, dont talk so much! Posts: 2574 | From: Manton Michigan | Registered: Mar 2006
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posted
Chuck, I tried that...with the weight of the drill, you wont know your slightly bowing the shaft.
Eric
-------------------- "I dont want to overthrow the government, I wanna Fire'em!"- Gallagher Technolgy-The knowledge of arranging things so we dont have to actually experience them. If you want people to listen to what you have to say, dont talk so much! Posts: 2574 | From: Manton Michigan | Registered: Mar 2006
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posted
I'm surprised you cant get blades anymore..
I have a tru-center taper tool and a bear paw.
The bearpaw worked GREAT on my Hildebrand spruce. The tru-center just chewed the heck outta them..with brand new blades. The tru-center holds the blades at a slightly different angle than the bearpaw...maybe this is the difference.
I have a taper block that I used when I was shooting ash. Same kind 3r sells..mighta got it from them.
It worked ok...at least it was something for a guide. The biggest problem I had was my ryobi sander's table wasn't very steady. Spent more time finding ways to steady the table mount than anything else.
If you want the block I'll send it to you.
-------------------- If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle
..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear Posts: 3927 | From: Shelby, Michigan | Registered: Oct 2008
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posted
Maybe so Eric, I can see how it sure could bow. I do mine on my edge sander and operate in the vertical not horizontal. I don't/can't use a block on my nock end so I have to take great care in checking my size as I approach my pencil lines. I think your set up would be better controled than mine. A 6"X80" maybe overkill for wood arrows. You can ruin a shaft in a hurry tho.
CTT
-------------------- C.A.Deshler
"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter.” Francis Chan http://twotracksbow.com Posts: 4860 | From: Michigan | Registered: Feb 2009
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