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» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » Hunting Knives and Crafters » Guard on Hidden Tang (lots of pics)Finished knife photo added (Page 3)

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Author Topic: Guard on Hidden Tang (lots of pics)Finished knife photo added
Doug Campbell
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Great tutorial Lin, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

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Life is wonderful in Montana!!
"BEING CHALLENGED IN LIFE IS INEVITABLE. BEING DEFEATED IS OPTIONAL."
ABS Journeyman Knifesmith
Doug's Photo Album,

Posts: 8718 | From: SW Montana | Registered: Mar 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
2Knives
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Very nice tutorial!!
Its so good that it almost makes me think I could do something like that. I'm still at the stage of learning not to get bit by the sander! [Smile]

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USAF AMMO Retired

Shoot True!!!
Don't Squat with your Spurs on!

Posts: 963 | From: a TEXAN living in South Dakota | Registered: Apr 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Lin Rhea
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Thanks guys.

I am in the process of finishing the handle. I tok some photos along the way and will get some up before long. Thanks, Lin

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"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

Posts: 4502 | From: Prattsville, Arkansas, USA | Registered: Nov 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Lin Rhea
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Today I am finishing the handle on the hunter. The wood I'm choosing is Desert Ironwood and here are bookmatched scales.
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I have angled the front of the scales to better allow me to get the shape I want as well as to get the pretty burls into the handle of the finished knife. I have the tang just stuck between the scales to help get thing oriented. A little planning at this point will pay off. The drawing of the handle shape is rough and oversized, but gives me an idea of the flow I want from blade to handle.
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You can see the tape that creates a hinge for the bookmatched scales. This just helps for a number of reasons, mainly to keep from getting things mixed up and the scales backwards. You also can see the slight angle of the front of the scales. They naturally oppose one another in that posititon. I'm holding the guard tight to the angled front and marking the tang's profile.
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Now it's time to inlet the scales to fit the tang. Since the glue joint should be down the center of the knife, the inletting should be centered too with half of the mortise into one scale and half in the other. I taper the tang, so this means that the mortise should be deeper toward the guard progressively getting shallower toward the back. I use a small milling machine for this, but it can be done several ways, including small chisels, routing, dremel, etc.
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In the above picture, I marked where my pins will be. Look in the mortised groove. I take a very small bit and drill from the inside of the groove out to enable me to find the exact pin location later. I do this on one scale, not both.

The scales are ready to be glued up to one another. I rough up the inside surface and degrease it before applying super glue. You have to be carefull, of course. Get your vise or clamps ready before hand and get things lined up as close as possible. This will make the wood grain line up as well as line up the two halves of the mortise. I pay special attention to the front that joins up with the guard. Naturally it seems, there will need to be some fine tuning of this area after glue up. Here is a picture of the front of the joined scales after the two halves have been evned up.
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Now the guard and handle fits up good and the tang is good and snug with hardly any movement from side to side or up and down. When done right it wont take much epoxy at all. The handle looks ugly because it's still in block form, but I have the pin location taken care of with the small locator holes. No problem. Just glue it up.
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Now, I have this clamp that I like to use for some knives that I saw somewhere and made one for myself. I'll show it to you in a few minutes. I have to get a picture. Be back shortly. Lin

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"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

Posts: 4502 | From: Prattsville, Arkansas, USA | Registered: Nov 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
kbaknife
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Hurry up.

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When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

Posts: 2745 | From: Watseka, Illinois | Registered: Jan 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Lin Rhea
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I'm back.

The blade/guard and the handle block has been epoxied and needs clamping. Here is the clamp I mentioned. This works well for me. This clamp has a detachable end which can be taken off and notched to accept the blade so the front of the guard will press against the jaw. With just a little pressure you can get a good joint.
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Notice in the above picture that the small pin locator holes alloed some epoxy to squeeze out. That was why I put tape on the side of the handle to limit this. But I actually wanted to see the epoxy come out, since this allowed some air to vent and got he epoxy all the way down around the tang. Here the handle profile is roughed in and the sides are checked to make sure all is parallel. If not make the adjustments while in relative block form. This will allow you to drill your pin holes square with the centerline of the knife.

Using the locator hole, I drill pilot holes through the handle, tang and all. Then enlarge the holes to fit the small part of my step drill. While I'm drilling and since I have the handle generally profiled, I drill a pilot for the lanyard tube. Here the handle is piloted and the pins and tubing laid with it. Notice that I roughed up the tubing a little in the area that will be in the middle of the knife's handle. I feel like this will add some strength to the glue joint not only for the lanyard tube itself, but will lend this strength also toward holding the scales together, serving as an additional pin of sorts.
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Here is the step drill. Notice the "step" will have to be just deep enough to allow the pins to screw together applying pressure to the scales and connecting through the tang. This takes a little practice, but is not too difficult.
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I might mention that the pins I am using are 3/16 X 1/4 with the pilot being the 3/16 and the larger part of the pin being 1/4 inch.

To get a good idea of the depth that you want the "step", I do this.
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I'm just taking note where the steps are in relation to the handle sides. There is a little play here, but not much. Get this as close as you can without going too deep. Of course if the steps are not deep enough, the pin halves wont reach and connect. Here is the handle after the pins and tube are installed.
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Now the handle is ready to be shaped. I use amy grinder with a rotary platten attached for some of this.
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You can use files, rasps, or other means to get to the same place. I am almost finished with the knife. I just have to do some hand finishing here and there. Here is the handle after some work with the rotary platten.
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I will post pictures after I get completely finished. This might take a couple of days to get the photos. Thanks for being patient during all of this. Lin

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"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

Posts: 4502 | From: Prattsville, Arkansas, USA | Registered: Nov 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Emmons
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Awesome!!! Thank you for taking the time to put this together.

Hopefully I can put it to use soon. Been gathering equipment since we moving here to Canada, to get a small knife shop together.

James

Posts: 928 | From: Brantford, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Oct 2005  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
prarieboy
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Lin You do awesome Work and to echo bowhunterinchile Thanks for taking the time to share Your knowledge [Not Worthy] [Not Worthy] C-Ya Bob

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Look up!It's ALL above us.

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Kevin Evans
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Thanks Lin for the session.
I am still learning to press fit I think the part about the SHARP file is very important!!What a beautiful piece of wood!!
Lin can I bend Nickel silver??(Trying to make a special guard) Thanks Kevin

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Lin Rhea
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Thanks. Kevin, yes you can bend it. If you get worried it might crack you can heat it to red and bend it that way. I have watched David Anders actually forge nickel/silver into shape with a hammer.
Lin

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"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

Posts: 4502 | From: Prattsville, Arkansas, USA | Registered: Nov 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
theunluckyhunter
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kevin, it's hard to break that stuff, i had a skinny piece of cutoff and it bent into a pig tail without breaking. all though i did ruin about 4 inches of 1/4 inch brass by not heating before bending [Frown] .


looking fantastic lin.

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anything can happen on a texas friday night, if you dont mind your manners you dont mind a fight

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OconeeDan
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Lin, that is a great tutorial in every way.
Thank you so much for sharing your tricks. I know it has taken you a long time of trial and error to make them work so well.
Dan

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bayoulongbowman
Trad Bowhunter
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Lin , thats going to be a dandy!! Marco

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"If you're living your life as if there is no GOD, you had better be right!"

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Steve Nuckels
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Lin, thank you so much for that in depth tutorial. Your time and effort is greatly appriciated. You have anwsered many questions that I had.

You are a true cyber mentor to many!

Beautiful work Sir!

Steve

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IN GOD WE TRUST

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Lin Rhea
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Thank you guys. I have the knife finished and will have it photographed soon. Lin

--------------------
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

Posts: 4502 | From: Prattsville, Arkansas, USA | Registered: Nov 2007  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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