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Author Topic: HELP I need a Hill Style bow for myself
Djoseph
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After searching the forum I gathered as much info as I could and sat down and looked at it and came up with these specs....please tell me if it will be alright...

Draw weight 65#@28"
66" ntn
1.125" at fades
1/2" at nocks
Riser 14"
0.050" glass on back and belly
1/8" Trapped back (1/16" on either side)
Reflexed 1-1/4"
Tip wedge 5" long and 0.03" butt
Total Stack 0.544"
Total taper 0.006"/inch
Bottom limb 1.5" shorter than the top limb
Shelf cut 1.5" above riser center

Thanks for your help.... I got only one pair of .05" fiberglass and most probably will not be able to buy more in the near future so I have to succeed if I am to have a Hill-Style bow....

Posts: 64 | From: India | Registered: Sep 2016  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
monterey
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All of those specs can be found on some but not all Hill style bows. I'll throw out a few thoughts.

66" NTN is on the short side for a hill style with a 28" draw. I'd go 68" or even a bit longer.

There is no need to trap the back.

.050 glass would be fine.

It could be reflexed, straight or string follow. It could also be back set. Back set is reflex but not all reflex is back set.

The tip wedge is advisable with .006 taper. Probably a good idea on any hill style.

I have no idea what stack you need.

Some Hill styles were built with a shortened lower limb and some were not. Sometimes Built both ways by the same builder. This is just a guess, but I think that the builder occasionally found the tiller so out of whack that they fixed it by shortening the lower limb.

Shelf at 1.5" is ok.

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Monterey

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Djoseph
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My draw length is 26" only that's why I figured 66" would do to give me a bow pulling about 60#....
By reflex I ment a continuous parabolic curve...
As for trapping I think it will help make lighter limbs to get Max speed as
Pssible more so than square sides...

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monterey
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I'll let the trappers comment on the speed issue, but generally trapping is used to lighten draw weight.

If you are drawing 26" then the 66" should be fine

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Monterey

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jsweka
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I think your specs should would or at least get you close to your intended draw weight.

A bow with trapped limbs that is the same draw weight as one with square limbs will generally shoot a bit faster because there will be less mass in the limbs. But if you are trapping to lighten draw weight, you'll probably lose a little speed simply because you're knocking the draw weight down.

IMHO, people get way too hung up on speed with these types of bows. If you're after speed, choose a different design altogether.

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>>>---->TGMM<----<<<<

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Djoseph
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If I am to choose a Rd bow for better performance it will be kennym's design....but I have already built a bow of that design...I would like to try a slim deep cored stack on Kenny's form for a 62/64" Rd bow
But don't know what those specs would be...bnd since I can only build one bow I'm thinking of a deep cored slim designed Hill style but with the most performance I can squeeze from it... I hope I explained myself in an understandable way

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monterey
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Your specs should get you to a Hill style that performs nicely within the expectations of the style. My reflexed ASLs shoot like a 5# heavier flat design. I also reflex in a parabola.

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Monterey

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Djoseph
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Do you think that the tip wedge is a bit too long or will it be ok? On the hill style.....
And if I were to make a Rd of off Kenny,s form deep cored what taper rate would you suggest? Thanks.....

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monterey
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I don't think the wedges are too long. I'm not a good judge of that though.

We need Kenny to comment on his design.

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Monterey

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Djoseph
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Hello Kenny I got to ask you something.... If I want to do a deep cored narrow limb say 1.25" at fade on your 62/64" Rd form what taper rate would you suggest would .004"/" be correct? If I go more narrow to say 1.125" at fade would I need to increase taper rate beyond that to maybe .005"/"?
And also use tip wedges?

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mikkekeswick
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R/d bows need to be 1 1/2 really for limb stability. Thicker and narrower is just going to make it prone to twist.
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kennym
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Daniel, I agree with Mike, I def wouldn't go under 1.25 with the D/R in it. I have gone to 1.25" wide at fades, but usually stay at
1.375 to near 1.5

And .004 would prob work, .0035 might be optimal tho.

--------------------
Stay sharp, Kenny.

https://www.kennysarchery.com/

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Djoseph
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Thanks Kenny I might just try building one at 1.25" width at fades especially once I can get some fiberglass glass again preferably .04"...
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Djoseph
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Thanks Mike I think it's best I make a hill style narrow limb design since this is my only pieces of glass and I already got one Rd bow from Kenny's form its a great bow and I enjoy shooting it very much it's 50# @26" my draw length ....
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Djoseph
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Please help me! Hill style bowyers.... Are the tip wedges necessary and is 5" length too long or too short or just right or do I really need them or not....
Does hill style call for asymetrical limbs or not...

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