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Author Topic: New recurve and build along
rmorris
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Last time I attempted a recurve build it was not a success.

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=007882;p=1

I plan on taking on this project again but I have a few questions .

1. What glass do you all recurve makers use? I was thinking 1-3/4" uls in .040. Shooting for a 50-60# takedown recurve.

2. What kinds of total taper rates do you all use in recurves?

3. I was thinking a 62" recurve for my 30" draw with an 18" riser. Have a better suggestion?

I will also try to do a build along with this bow but at my current life pace it may take me a few months.

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"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1257 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
ty_in_ND
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I can't speak for your first 2 questions, but for your 3rd, I have a 60" takedown recurve that has a 19" riser. With my 30" draw, I can just start to feel it stack at 30" (I've pulled it past 30" and the stacking is quite noticeable), so I think you would be fine with your dimensions.

The more I think about it... I could take measurements of my recurve with the calipers (I have 50# limbs for it) and report back. With your dimensions making for a bow with longer limbs, you'd have to increase the thickness of the stack slightly to get to your draw weight (unless you mean 50-60#@30", then you might be close to 50#), but at least it would be a start!

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Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.

Posts: 86 | From: Grand Forks, North Dakota | Registered: Mar 2015  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
rmorris
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Tyler , thanks for your help. I and hoping for the first bow to come out around 50-60#, the next bow after that should be easy to hit weight but it sure is nice to hit weight on the first try.

I am curious if you all are using .05 or .04 for recurves? Due the width difference between longbows and recurves I was thinking .04 glass.

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"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1257 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
BrushWolf
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If it was me I'd use a. 002 taper rate with .040 glass. I am currently building 62" bows with an 18" riser. As far as width on glass it all depends how wide the limbs will be. I like 1 3/4 but the bows end up at 1 /716 wide. If I was building an 1 3/4 limb bow I'd probably get 2" wide glass. I like to have enough for clean up. I've made bows with 15" to 19" risers. The 18" are my favorite.

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Kids who hunt, trap, & fish don't mug little old ladies.

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ty_in_ND
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I think the rule is to try to keep the fiberglass in the 20-25% range of the total stack. Since recurve limbs are wider and thinner than longbows, they would use .040 glass to try to maintain a good ratio of wood to glass.

I got too busy with life yesterday, so I'll try to measure my bow for sure tonight!

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Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.

Posts: 86 | From: Grand Forks, North Dakota | Registered: Mar 2015  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mad Max
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quote:
Originally posted by ty_in_ND:
I think the rule is to try to keep the fiberglass in the 20-25% range of the total stack. Since recurve limbs are wider and thinner than longbows, they would use .040 glass to try to maintain a good ratio of wood to glass.

yep

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"nothing ventured ,nothing gained"

Posts: 1867 | From: Mississippi | Registered: Oct 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Pago
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60" Recurve

1.5" wide

uls glass .040 x2
Actionboo taper .080 @.001 taper x2
Stabil-kore .015
50#

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The best made plan won't get it made the way you planned.

Posts: 321 | From: Arizona | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
rmorris
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Good looking bow! Thanks for the information .

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"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1257 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mad Max
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Nice looking Recurve there, Pago

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"nothing ventured ,nothing gained"

Posts: 1867 | From: Mississippi | Registered: Oct 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Pago
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Your welcome and thanks. I built that one as a donation to a silent auction. One lucky guy got that bow for $250. The bought the supplies from Kenny. I really hated to see this one go.

This is my man-child son shooting the bow.

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The best made plan won't get it made the way you planned.

Posts: 321 | From: Arizona | Registered: Jul 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
rmorris
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Alright I am going with 1-3/4” x .040 glass I think I am also going to try an 18” riser for this three piece take down bow. All of my old tools and jigs are back at the in laws house in New Mexico so I am going to do a little bit of a jig build along with this build. I am a little busy at work so don’t expect this to go fast.

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"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1257 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
rmorris
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Here is a little how to on how I make limb wedges.

First off I like using a tablesaw with a nice solid square 3/4” miter slot.
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I then cut a strip of corian to fit in my miter slot.
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Corian is a great material that can be cut with woodworking tool and also tapped for screws. I then attach my miter strip to a larger piece and run it through the saw to square off the excess.
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"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1257 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
rmorris
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I then square off a pice of wood and attach it at the angle I want for my limb wedge. In this case I am coping one I made on my old saw and jig that is 1-1/2” wide for a longbow.  -
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"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1257 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
rmorris
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I then cut a piece of corian 1.775 thick ( the thickness of the limb wedge plus the thickness of some sticky back sanding disk) for the back support and a top lid attached with wing nuts. I also place the sand paper where the limb wedge will go during sawing.
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"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1257 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
rmorris
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I then cut a strip on the table saw 1-3/4” wide by about 3/8 thick and then chop them into 10” blocks. Each piece then gets tightened down and one pass on the table saw makes a near perfect limb wedge.

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"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1257 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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