Trad Gang.com Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply
MY PROFILE | directory login | register | search | FAQ | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » The Bowyer's Bench » Bow Press?? (Page 1)

 - UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!   This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2   
Author Topic: Bow Press??
DDawg
Contributor 2015
Member # 42316

Icon 1 posted      Profile for DDawg   Email DDawg   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I'm throwing around the Idea of attempting my first laminated build.
I am green, but I did manage to build the pyramid bow in the "So you want to build a bow" build along.

I like to save $ where I can, but I work hard on my small side line hobby keeping bees and selling honey for my play money. So I don't mind spending a little to get up an running building a bow.
I think I'll start with a HH long bow.
I'm looking at two sources for beginners (but open to others)
Bingham's first time bower kit (complete) and Kenny's custom archery.
The big hurdle I keep coming up against is the form. I only have a 9" table top bandsaw and no router. I could get access to a full size band saw, but I am a total newb with routers. Kenny's form build looks awesome, but a little daunting.
Bingham's press kit looks appealing, but I can't find anything on what is needed to build the form to go with it. Does any one know what it takes to build the forms for the Bingham's press kit or opinions on the kit?
Any ideas or advice would be appreciated!

Thanks
David

--------------------
Chuck Norris had a Grizzly Bear rug in his room...The Bear wasn't dead, just to afraid to move...
PBS Associate Member
60" , 45# Holm-Made River Runner

Posts: 132 | From: Georgia | Registered: Oct 2014  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
monterey
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 15276

Icon 1 posted      Profile for monterey   Email monterey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
If you have checked out the kennym form build along, you have the info needed to build a Bingham form. It's the same process.

However, the simplest form to build would be a Hill style for a flat bow. If you go to the lumber yard and find a perfect 2 X 8 X 6' are practically there. Have the guys at the lumber yard cut one edge square and straight for your form. From there you can go the rubber band method with dowels.

There's a little more to it than that but if you want to go forward, we can help you out.

--------------------
Monterey

Posts: 2943 | From: Colorado | Registered: Feb 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bvas
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 44555

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Bvas   Email Bvas   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
X2 what Monterey said. But I'd probably bolt some angle iron or glue and screw some 2x4s to the bottom of each side of the 2x8 to help keep it from warping or twisting.

--------------------
Some hunt to survive; some survive to hunt

Posts: 725 | From: Ohio | Registered: Feb 2016  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mad Max
SPONSOR
Member # 40137

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Mad Max   Email Mad Max   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Yep AND
Yep

--------------------
"nothing ventured ,nothing gained"

Posts: 1840 | From: Mississippi | Registered: Oct 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
monterey
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 15276

Icon 1 posted      Profile for monterey   Email monterey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I'll X3 that yep. Or glue and screw plywood, keeping in mind that two pieces of "3/4" plywood will not equal 1.5"!

--------------------
Monterey

Posts: 2943 | From: Colorado | Registered: Feb 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
rmorris
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 20961

Icon 1 posted      Profile for rmorris   Author's Homepage   Email rmorris   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I made my first hill style bow form on a tablesaw and it made a good bow. If you can get a used router and a new flush trim bit you can do about anything. I used LVL for my forms and it comes in 1-3/4" but you can use a tablesaw to get the mating surface down to 1-1/2 ". Nothing wrong with a tablesaw for bow making but my next tool would be a bandsaw .

--------------------
"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1250 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
DDawg
Contributor 2015
Member # 42316

Icon 1 posted      Profile for DDawg   Email DDawg   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Thanks for the Tips.. Since I am only planning on sporadically building bows for personal use, I am gonna focus on the bicycle tire clamping method.
It's looking more and more like I will buy the Kenny's Longbow Build Kit. I know its a D/R bow, but I think it will be the best place to start and Kenny seems to be a great resource here on TG.
I plan on calling Kenny for advice, but I think I read in a recent post that he may be off hunting at the moment. No worries, I'm not gonna rush this.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around building the form. I've been searching here, but have only found bits and pieces. Does anyone know of a comprehensive resource for building and using this type of form/Press? Of course I will scour YouTube, but maybe some of Y'all have a preferred source.

thanks
David

--------------------
Chuck Norris had a Grizzly Bear rug in his room...The Bear wasn't dead, just to afraid to move...
PBS Associate Member
60" , 45# Holm-Made River Runner

Posts: 132 | From: Georgia | Registered: Oct 2014  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
monterey
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 15276

Icon 1 posted      Profile for monterey   Email monterey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
If you are going to do a DR bow I think you will need a router. You could cut it with a hand jig saw and then do the final finish by hand but that's a tricky process.

I suggest you purchase a router new or used. Just bite the bullet. You may end up saving far more than the price of the router. A good form can produce many fine bows. A bad form can make one disaster. The form IS the bow.

Kenny even sells the template. You can have a form in a few hours. If you decide later to convert to a fire hose form it's easy to do.

--------------------
Monterey

Posts: 2943 | From: Colorado | Registered: Feb 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mad Max
SPONSOR
Member # 40137

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Mad Max   Email Mad Max   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I would buy the router and bits.
kenny's template too.
He can make all the lams too.
A 1/4" bit router takes 2 bit's, one bearing on top the other bearing on bottom.

--------------------
"nothing ventured ,nothing gained"

Posts: 1840 | From: Mississippi | Registered: Oct 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
DDawg
Contributor 2015
Member # 42316

Icon 1 posted      Profile for DDawg   Email DDawg   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Yep, a router is definitely on my short list. What am I looking for in a router? Will the standard HD / Lowes router do?

I remember when I started building all my Beehive woodenware, I was about to spring for the shiny new sears $400 table saw complete with a laser and everything. Then the old timers in the build forum quickly set me straight about the significance of a 3/4" (+) arbor vs a 1/2" arbor that all the newer ($400 dollar range) table saws come with. beehives are usually made with 3/4 wood and 3/4 dado cuts. They advised me to buy a nice older Cman 113 series table saw. I ended up finding a really nice 1 owner TS from the guy accross the street in a neighborhood yard sale for $100.

--------------------
Chuck Norris had a Grizzly Bear rug in his room...The Bear wasn't dead, just to afraid to move...
PBS Associate Member
60" , 45# Holm-Made River Runner

Posts: 132 | From: Georgia | Registered: Oct 2014  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mad Max
SPONSOR
Member # 40137

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Mad Max   Email Mad Max   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I think older is better when it comes to wood working machines.

--------------------
"nothing ventured ,nothing gained"

Posts: 1840 | From: Mississippi | Registered: Oct 2013  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Shredd
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 45311

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Shredd   Email Shredd   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
If you are gonna build a Hill Style bow with a gentle reflex you can get away with cutting your form with a circular saw... Do a test run on a scrap piece of wood of the same radius you are gonna make your form and adjust your circular saw until you get a perfect 90 degree cut... Take a belt sander and clamp it on it's side securely on a table with no movement... Build up the table next to the sander for your work surface and use shims until you get a perfect 90 degree sanded surface... Use the sander to sand up to the template line on your form and get a consistent curve...
Thats how I would do it if I had minimal tools...
And go with an air hose... You'll be glad you did...

Posts: 264 | From: Florida | Registered: Sep 2016  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
rmorris
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 20961

Icon 1 posted      Profile for rmorris   Author's Homepage   Email rmorris   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
As far as routers go, make sure it can accept 1/2" tooling. Everything after that is just bonus. My second wishlist item for a router is variable speed. The 1/2" collet is what you need for the bits that will do your form.

--------------------
"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Posts: 1250 | From: Midland, Texas | Registered: Aug 2009  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
kennym
Assoc Sponsor
Member # 2304

Icon 1 posted      Profile for kennym   Author's Homepage   Email kennym   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I used a router with a 1/4" collet for a few forms.. With a 1" depth of cut , if you saw very close to the line, then cut an inch deep, you can just drop the bit down and run on the freshly cut surface for a template. Should be exactly the same as the template.

I always take a sanding block and sand the form a little being careful to keep it flat on the routed surface so you keep it square face to side.

The kit comes with plan and template also....

--------------------
Stay sharp, Kenny.

https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Posts: 11976 | From: Linneus , Mo. | Registered: Jan 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
kennym
Assoc Sponsor
Member # 2304

Icon 1 posted      Profile for kennym   Author's Homepage   Email kennym   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Oh, and I'm helping a bud combine beans so if you can call around 7 AM or after dark central time will help me out!

thanks!

--------------------
Stay sharp, Kenny.

https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Posts: 11976 | From: Linneus , Mo. | Registered: Jan 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
  This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2   

Quick Reply ~ PLEASE THINK BEFORE YOU POST! - Is your post trad bowhunting related? Check the FAQ or EMAIL if you're unsure!
Message:

HTML is not enabled.
UBB Code™ is enabled.

Instant Graemlins
   


Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Shoot On Over To:


Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | Privacy Statement

Copyright 2003 thru 2017 ~ Trad Gang.com ©

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.1