Trad Gang.com Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply
MY PROFILE | directory login | register | search | FAQ | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » The Bowyer's Bench » Arrow Tuning

 - UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!    
Author Topic: Arrow Tuning
Wolftrail
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 41211

Icon 5 posted      Profile for Wolftrail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
So you have a 30" arrow and a 32". Both are spined the same. The dynamic spine of the 32" would be less correct..?
I draw 28" I prefer 1 1/2" to 2" in front of the riser.
What have you guys experienced building wood arrows in regards to fine tuning.


=====================
Myarchery
http://myarchery.byethost18.com

Posts: 743 | From: BC, Canada | Registered: Mar 2014  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
monterey
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 15276

Icon 1 posted      Profile for monterey   Email monterey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
I'm kinda crude when it comes to tuning. My arrows are mostly full length at 32". Typically I tune with point weight for general shooting but for hunting my first go to is degree of center shot and next brace height. I have never cut a shaft to tune it. OTOH I mostly shoot high GPP out of ASL style and it seems to be a very forgiving combo.

Yes, all else being equal, longer is weaker

--------------------
Monterey

Posts: 3014 | From: Colorado | Registered: Feb 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wolftrail
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 41211

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Wolftrail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
What is GPP out of ASL style...?
I have tried point weight like going from 125gr to 145gr. did not work for me.
My next batch of arrows I will taper the rear 10" of the shaft see how that pans out.

Posts: 743 | From: BC, Canada | Registered: Mar 2014  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
monterey
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 15276

Icon 1 posted      Profile for monterey   Email monterey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Grains Per Pound of draw weight. I shoot 41 to 44 lb. With arrows in the 525 to 675 grains range. My points are 125 to 190.

--------------------
Monterey

Posts: 3014 | From: Colorado | Registered: Feb 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
fujimo
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 17720

Icon 1 posted      Profile for fujimo   Email fujimo   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
i believe in a combo of techniques.
i try and start with the arrow and point combo that i want- GPP, and % of foc etc
then i start by bare shafting. when i have a field point , bare shaft shooting well, and a wee bit weak, not quite spot on, then i fletch up 6 shafts. and use 3 bare shaft, 3 fletched fieldpoints and 3 fletched broadheads- there after i group tune-until its good- it may just require that last bit of trimming to tweek them.

i have a long draw- 31.5", so out of my #50 bow i take 34" shafts, cut them at 33 1/4" then taper for the point.
i have to use #75 spine shafts to make this work for me.

I, personally, like to take a bit more time tuning a new setup, cos then, if/ when i screw up, i know its me, and i cant blame my equipment.

sometimes this tuning process can take half a day, sometimes just an hour, if you hit the spot quickly.
the more you do it, the quicker it gets.

tons of opinions and variables with tuning, as you will see.- but will list a few.many folk paper tune, i dont. just what works for me. many swear by paper tuning- and it works for them. one of those "each to their own" things.

1.your form needs to be spot on- bad or inconsistent form wil give misleading results.
2.set you bow up as for final shooting, sliencers, quivers etc etc
3. keep your bow vertical when bareshafting- thats what they say- i find if i have to shoot with my bow perfectly vertical- my form suffers- so i cant my bow- then cant my target to the same degree- so that i dont get false answers.
4.start with a good, accurate spine chart- it saves a lot of time and heartache.
5.adding the weight of the fletching and the resistance will "stiffen" a shaft slightly- so another reason to stop with your bareshafts slightly weak.
6. when bare shafting- start really close- 3 yards from the target- then work your way back, making minor adjustments the whole way, this will help prevent broken shafts.
7. use a foam target- a bag target stuffed with plastic, can give false readings.
8. shoot averages- so shoot a few arrows a few times before trimming a shaft.
then when i do my final "group tuning", i dont actually shoot groups, otherwise you will destroy arrows, i put a fresh piece of paper on the target- then shoot my bare shafts- extract them, and mark their P.O.I., then do the fletched FP, do the same , and then the B/H's i shoot individually- but thats just me. wee bit OCD me thinks [Smile]
9.remember if you are limited with shaft supply, you can always tune your bow to the shafts to a degree- now i dont like to mess with the braceheight- but i will build out the strike plate using double sided carpet tape- under the leather or velcro on the strike plate, to make the bow want a weaker shaft, if i cant trim them anymore- out of space- or i dont have heavier points.
10.beware of Super high FOC- now before you start hollering- just hear me out!!
we all know that foc works and works well, but if you up the point weight that much, in order to chase the high foc, at the expense of your overall arrow weight- you are going to create an arrow that is excessively heavy, and that has a very arched trajectory. It will drop like a stone aftyer 20 yards or so- give or take! imho!
i like high FOC, but i go about it the other way- i use the lightest shaft that i can- thats why i like Sitka Spruce( not the German spruce - mind you!!!) its tough, super tough and light- strongest wood for its weight in the world- fact!!
then i may back taper the last 9" or so, and with a well tuned shaft, i only use 3 x 4" fletches- and they are not super tall either. That way i can still get a nice arrow, still be in my preferred hunting weight parameters- just a wee bit over 10 GPP and with a good foc- best of both worlds!!

this is by far the best bareshafting video i have ever seen- follow his technique and you wont go wrong!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGOPiriLbcM
I just take it one step further with the "group tuning"

i have some really great spine tables- that will get you really close, if not spot on, and some illustrations of reading the target- for tuning and form error- just dont know how to get them on here.

i can email them to someone and they can post them on here, if they would be so kind!

and remember, big fletching will repair or hide a multitude of tuning and shooting errors.
i shot 55# shafts out of my #50 bow for years- i stumped, i shot, and i hunted successfully- they had the slightest wag to them- (thats always an indicator that a shaft is slightly weak)- but they hit straight-ish, and where i aimed.
but always knew they werent right- eventually i sat down and got my head around the tuning enigma- since that day the shafts have been flying like darts. so even if you are a bit less than perfect- they will probably still work- i just try and get them perfect nowadays!

good luck- , and watch the rabbithole [Big Grin]

Posts: 3230 | From: Queen Charlotte Islands, B.C. Canada | Registered: Oct 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wolftrail
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 41211

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Wolftrail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Whoa nelly, not sure if you cut and paste that or wrote it as you posted..! [Cool]
At any rate thanks for your insight.
One big problem with most of us Club shooters is we shoot 75% of the time @ 20 yards. Your brain becomes accustomed at that depth. Anything less or more and the arrows are flying every which way............ [Eek!]


=====================
Myarchery
http://myarchery.byethost18.com

Posts: 743 | From: BC, Canada | Registered: Mar 2014  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
fujimo
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 17720

Icon 1 posted      Profile for fujimo   Email fujimo   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
nope- thats in the quagmire of my mind [Big Grin] .

its been quite a journey getting a handle on the tuning aspect, but once under the belt- it sure makes things easy-
its really not that difficult to decipher- if you have someone to give you a few pointers- trying to figure it out by oneself takes a bit of time!!

as you mention, the brain gets accustomed.
thats the very reaon i dont target shoot, and i only stump shoot- i tried target shooting i was dismally poor at it!!

Posts: 3230 | From: Queen Charlotte Islands, B.C. Canada | Registered: Oct 2008  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
slowbowjoe
CONTRIBUTOR 2018
Member # 34976

Icon 1 posted      Profile for slowbowjoe   Email slowbowjoe   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Wolftrail... correct. The dynamic spine of the 32" would be about 10 lbs. less than the 30".
Some basic rules of thumb: for each inch of length greater than 28", subtract 5 lbs. spine. For every inch shorter, add 5 lbs. dynamic spine.
Bows cut before center, reduce spine. Cut past center, add spine.
Points heavier than 125grn. reduce dynamic spine; lighter, add dynamic spine.

Hope this makes sense.

Posts: 1379 | From: VT | Registered: Sep 2011  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Roy from Pa
Contributor 2017
Member # 10602

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Roy from Pa   Email Roy from Pa   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Another good arrow tuning video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSJ6-HjPMTM&t=677s

Posts: 11385 | From: PA | Registered: Oct 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wolftrail
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 41211

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Wolftrail   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Another good arrow tuning video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSJ6-HjPMTM&t=677s

I definitely learned onething about what he said in the Video about the fletching hitting the handle area. A little fine tuning will correct that.
Posts: 743 | From: BC, Canada | Registered: Mar 2014  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

Quick Reply ~ PLEASE THINK BEFORE YOU POST! - Is your post trad bowhunting related? Check the FAQ or EMAIL if you're unsure!
Message:

HTML is not enabled.
UBB Code™ is enabled.

Instant Graemlins
   


Post New Topic  New Poll  Post A Reply Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Shoot On Over To:


Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | Privacy Statement

Copyright 2003 thru 2017 ~ Trad Gang.com ©

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.1