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» Trad Gang.com » Main Forums » The Bowyer's Bench » Hickory and oak pyramid bow (Page 1)

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Author Topic: Hickory and oak pyramid bow
John Malone
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Well Guys I killed my red oak bow. Everything was good until I decided to make the cut in shelf a "little bigger" it threw the tiller way off. I can save it but it will end up 30# maybe.
So now I have a 1.5 by 1 inch piece of hickory with really nice grain and will save it for a self bow in the future. Also have a piece of hickory backing 1/8 I'm going to back a piece of red oak with. I will be making a basic pyramid design shoot off the knuckle no frills. 70 inch ttt going for 50-55# or so.
If I make the handle area 1 inch wide and it comes in at 50-55# that's a half inch from center, do you think ill be able to tune either a full length 500 or 400 spined arrow to the bow or will I need new arrows. I don't have much experience with this style of bow always shot recurves cut close to or past center. I really don't want to buy more arrows.

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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

Posts: 284 | From: Richmond County North Carolina | Registered: May 2017  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Pat B
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I'm assuming your 400 to 500 arrows are carbon. I'm not saying you can't shoot carbon from a wood bow but it is a mismatch to me. [nono]
It doesn't matter whether a bow is center shot or not any bow can be accurate with properly spined arrows. Trying to get any arrow to shoot well is the wrong way to go. IMO I know nothing about carbon arrows. Buy a set of wood shafts spined 5# to 10# less than your draw weight and tune them to the bow.
I've made hunting weight selfbows that were as narrow as 3/4" at the arrow pass. As long as the fades and handle area are thick enough there shouldn't be a problem. Make the transition between handle and fade a smooth transition, thickness and width, rounding all the corners and edges and if you want a shelf, add one made from wood(a golf tee split in half), antler leather or cork.
Generally when a person cuts a shelf into the handle/fade area they make abrupt cuts that weaken the bow in an area that gets the most strain because of the leverage of the limbs.

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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

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John Malone
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Thanks Pat, Some nice wood arrows are my end goal but for now I'm just concentrating on becoming a better bowyer ill work on arrow smithing next. Just wondering if I will be able to shoot what I have for now. First I'm going to make this bow and see what I end up with and go from there. I have committed to following a basic build with no considerations for what I want other than basic length and approximate weight. Until I find out what I end up with I cant even consider choosing the correct arrows anyway.

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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

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John Malone
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Ill do pics this time although I only figured out how to post a link and not the actual pic itself.

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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

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Jeremy Bays
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Perhaps I am overly simplifying this, but I shoot whatever arrows I have...now shooting god groups might be a different issue.

I NEVER shoot carbon arrows off the hand as they tend to splinter when they break. Nasty stuff in your hands.

I see you are using a shelf so you should be ok until you get a proper matching set of arrows.

Make the bow first and then match the arrows to the bow.
Thanks
Jeremy Bays

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"The Moon gave us the bow and the Sun gave us the arrow" -- Pawnee Legend

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BMorv
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You should be able to tune those arrows to your bow if it ends up anywhere near your intended design. With full length arrows and different weight points and/or weighted inserts, you have a broader range than those charts on the arrow box would have you believe.

Long bows like a heavy arrow, and 10 grains per pound is a good start. You can always add weight tubes if your tuned arrows come out too light. They don't affect spine much.

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Life is too short to use marginal bow wood

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John Malone
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Thanks guys, no shelf on this one I guess you could call it a Hill style handle. Harbor Freight has a sale going today, got some Pittsburgh 6 inch bar clamps for 2.99 a piece bought 8 of them can never have to many clamps.

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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

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mwosborn
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I have (and do) shoot all arrow material types out of self bows without a cut in shelf. As already mentioned, you need to match your arrow spine to the bow. The 500 should work fine out of a bow you described. I would leave them full length and start with 150 grain head and see how it shoots. Go from there.

BTW - I also prefer wood arrows out of wood bows, but it is just a personal preference - they shoot no better nor worse than other materials.

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Enjoy the hunt! - Mitch

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John Malone
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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

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John Malone
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Don't mind this, almost got the picture thing fellows.

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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

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John Malone
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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

Posts: 284 | From: Richmond County North Carolina | Registered: May 2017  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Malone
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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

Posts: 284 | From: Richmond County North Carolina | Registered: May 2017  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Malone
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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

Posts: 284 | From: Richmond County North Carolina | Registered: May 2017  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Malone
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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

Posts: 284 | From: Richmond County North Carolina | Registered: May 2017  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Malone
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I got the picture thing figured out! Those pics are of the hickory backed oak pyramid I'm doing. If your looking for a build along I'm not the one to follow, as I'm flowing some one else. The one pic is of how I taper limbs with a hand plane and a shooting board very, simple and extremely accurate. I highly recommend it to anyone who has a good plane but doesn't have or doesn't want to use table saws or band saws. It allows you total control one tiny sliver at a time down the entire length of the taper. Once you get close you can switch over to my giant sanding block, again lots of control a lil at a time.

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If I'm breathing, I have nothing to complain about.

Posts: 284 | From: Richmond County North Carolina | Registered: May 2017  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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