posted
Ricks videos are great, but it is hard to see exactly what he his doing when he anchors. I took lessons from him back in 2006 and still use his style of shooting to this day. For me, I have the fletching placed around 2 inches forward from the very back of the nock. It will not be the same for everyone. The fletching that contacts my nose it at the 9:00 position for me. When I anchor, I put the lenght of thumb from first and second nuckle on my ear lobe. I'm not using just one knuckle, but rather that lengh of thumb between both nuckles. When the fletching is touching my nose, I am at full draw. Works pretty well for me.
Posts: 2329 | From: Illinois | Registered: Jun 2003
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posted
Wayne- I think I can help you with this- spent a couple days with Rick this summer at a course he gave here in Ontario. Great guy! And he helped me considerably.
Rick seeks for three anchor points- the feather on the nose, the first thumb knuckle on the bottom of the earlobe, and your first finger gripped around the string just under your cheek bone. [This assumes 3 under, of course.]
Here's a couple pics showing the three anchors. [Note that I am gripping the string with 4 fingers, only because I do not have my glove on.]
One other thing that needs to be considered is that to accomodate the feather on the nose, you will likely need to refletch your feathers further down the shaft in order to properly set this anchor. When I came home from my course, I set about stripping the fletching from all of my arrows, in order to refletch them in the new position. Here's a shot of one of them.
I naturally achored in what some would call this 'high' position, and shot 3 under- so this came easily to me. If you are shooting split, and lower- then it will be more of and adjustment. But this position feels very comfortable, allows one to better feel the back muscles, and also [generally] allows for a slightly longer draw. So you might even have to change the length of your arrow to properly set up for his approach.
The other main point that he makes is to 'trust your bow arm'. Again, this took some effort to put my 'trust' in where I was concentrating, and to not 'aim'- but it sure worked. My accuracy definitely improved.
Posts: 232 | From: Ontario Canada | Registered: Dec 2007
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posted
thanks all for all the feedback. thanks fox for the pics- exactly what i needed. the changeover has been a considerable thing for me. 1.i have changed from split to 3 under 2. had to get longer shafts to allow for my new drawlength- it increased by an inch and a half 3.got a new fletcher and feathers. 4. and the easiest and most fun part- tons and tons of practice already- but will start refletching today.
thanks once again to all best wayne
Posts: 1108 | From: Queen Charlotte Islands, B.C. Canada | Registered: Oct 2008
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posted
Ceme24 Do u know why they use left wing on right hand shooters and vise versa? Tommy
Posts: 220 | From: Pilot Butte, Sask Canada | Registered: Oct 2008
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posted
Foxtail's photos are excellent to show why you'd want LW on a right handed shooter. The tip of a LW fletch will angle up toward your nose allowing you to hit the tip of the nose easier.
On a RH shooter a RW fletch will angle down away from your nose making it more difficult to hit the tip of your nose which could cause you to dropping your head too much in toward the arrow.
Foxtail also brings up a critical point - trust your bow arm. If I had a nickel for every time Rick told me that I may have gotten my course for free!
-------------------- Hill Country Bobcat 56" 48# and 40# 1972 Bear Grizzly. 58" 53#
TGMM Family of the Bow
"God has given us two hands, one to receive with and the other to give with.” - Billy Graham Posts: 1703 | From: Ohio | Registered: Dec 2009
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1. If shooting a short Brace Ht. then the fletch may be contacting the riser with the arrow nocked.
2. Possibly if shooting normal FOC and a wide BH the abililty to correct flight is diminished and possibly visible due to moving the fletch further from the knock. Personally, I have not experienced this issue since my set-ups are geared for maximum FOC. I have yet to hear of anyone having issues with the 4".
-------------------- >>----> Friend <----<<
My Lands… Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse Posts: 3977 | From: Hanson, KY | Registered: Apr 2008
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posted
I shoot a 530gr arrow "Beman bone collector" w. 100 grain insert and 145grain tip, 245 up front with 4 inch shield back -Its plenty of fletch just make sure your bareshaft group well with your fletched or just right of your fletched -fletching will stiffen up your arrow.
Posts: 220 | From: Pilot Butte, Sask Canada | Registered: Oct 2008
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posted
Thanks ceme24 that was my guess just wasnt sure about the LW fletching on right hand shooter.
Posts: 220 | From: Pilot Butte, Sask Canada | Registered: Oct 2008
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Take note that what works for one may not for another. There are many variables. If your bare shafts, fletched shafts and fletched shafts with BH's are on mark, you should be in great shape.
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My Lands… Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse Posts: 3977 | From: Hanson, KY | Registered: Apr 2008
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posted
very true friend. also i noticed when you r close to perfect on your tuning you can try to turn down your helical a bit. Too much helical will slow down an arrow, with a good tuned arrow you whont need hardly any helical at all. Tommy
Posts: 220 | From: Pilot Butte, Sask Canada | Registered: Oct 2008
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