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» Trad Gang.com » Topic Archives » How To - Resources » Rawhide backing..a pictorial (Page 1)

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Author Topic: Rawhide backing..a pictorial
the Ferret
Trad Bowhunter
Member # 103

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I decided to rawhide back the perfect snake bow since I violated the grain run out so many times. Still may not save it, but it will generally help a straight bow with questionable grain or small violations in the back. BTW it is a nearly identical procedure to doing snakeskin backings. Here's how it's done...

First you'll need some supplies, your rawhide (generally comes in 2 stips 2" x 36" long... on this one I am using some thin calfskin that I cut from a side 1 3/4" x 36"). You'll also need your glue, a bowl, a razorblade, a towel, some tape or wire ties and some ace bandages.

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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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the Ferret
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Here's a close up of the thin calfskin rawhide I will be using

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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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the Ferret
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First you will want to rough up the back of your bow with some sandpaper to give your glue something to adhere to

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then blow off the dust and clean with some thinner or acetone

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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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mich-mtnman
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where do you get the rawhide like that ? thats sweet.

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" still trying to look like a 300# leaf "

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the Ferret
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Put a thin layer of glue on the back of 1 limb and handle smear it in with your finger making sure the entire surface is covered and let dry. This is called sizing the back


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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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the Ferret
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Now put some luke warm water in your bowl and put in your rawhide to soak. This will make it pliable so that it can form to your bow.

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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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the Ferret
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After a few minutes remove one piece of the rawhide and lay it out on the towel

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Fold the towel over on the rawhide and pat most of the moisture off

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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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the Ferret
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Now put a thicker layer of your glue on the back of the limb and handle

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There should be no dry spots or thin spots in your glue

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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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the Ferret
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Next lay your rawhide down on the handle and back of the bow

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If this were a straight stave I would wire tie or tape the rawhide at the handle so that I could pull it tight inducing some tension before wrapping and then wire tie or tape at the tip as well cutting off any excess length with my razor blade. (but on this snaky stave stretching the rawhide isn't going to work)

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Start wrapping with an ace bandage at the handle (leaving room for rawhide overlap on the next piece at the handle) and wrap towards the tip overlapping your wraps by about 1/2 the width of the ace bandage. Use your other hand to make sure the edges of the rawhide are smoothed down on the edge of the limb as you wrap.

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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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the Ferret
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Continue wrapping until the entire limb is wrapped and then tie off or clip the bandage. here is the first limb wrapped.

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Then simply repeat the procedure on the other limb, and then set aside to dry for 24 hours before unwrapping. Here is the entire bow wrapped.

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Tomorrow we will unwrap the bow and see how it looks. Then we will use a rasp to "cut" off the excess rawhide on the edges of the limb.

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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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trashwood
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Great presentation Ferret. I sure hope sneeky snake hangs together.

the last year or so I have come to love big catfish skins and hide glue for rawhide backing and backing over sinew. catfish skin seems lighter weight per square inch but does not give up anything in strength.

Rusty

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AZStickman
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Nice Job Mickey....Can't wait to see how she turns out.... We're on the same wavelength today... I just finished a sinew harvest/ prep pictorial........Terry

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"The reward of a thing well done is to have done it.".. Ralph Waldo Emerson

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the Ferret
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Michmntmn.I picked up a side of the thin rawhide at GLLI a few years back from a vendor selling leather prods. I've traded/given most of it away over the years. Have enough left to do one more bow.BTW whitetail doe rawhide from the belly area is also very thin and tough, and a good use for that small hide.

Thanks Rusty, I'm hoping she makes it too. Would have rather had a naturally snaky piece of osage but they are just so hard to find. Catfish skin should work great it is so tough!

Cool Terry! I'm going looking for your thread.

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There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

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Dano
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Great timing Mickey, got some bows to back soon. Great tutorial [thumbsup]

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"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy" Red Green

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Buemaker
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Nice job Mickey, I often use rawhide from reindeer, I beleive you call them Caribou,it is very thin, 0,015" to 0,020" thick. Very pliable and easy to work with. Bue--.
Posts: 2052 | From: Norway | Registered: Feb 2004  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
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