posted
Im going to start this on PowWow and move it to "how-to" soon. Hopefully thats alright with MGMT.
Grizzly 160 and 190 grain heads are harder steel and are harder to work with. The first step is to drasticly change the angle of the cutting edge. Imagine drawing a line from the cutting edge through the top of the ferrel. This is the pitch you will be trying to achieve. The top head is factory and the lower is where you want to be.
I use a 12" file and clamp it down like Charlie Lamb in his ww sharpening video. Notice how I grasp the head so that my index finger drags the table. This creates an exacting angle. I now push toward the point till I remove enough material to get the long angle. This takes quite awhile so be patient.
Now, once you've achieved this angle.
You will want to take the burr off the opposite side with one or two light strokes on the back side. From this point we will move on to a "quality" course wetstone then on to the fine wetstone. Remember: keep the angle exacting by locking the head into your hand and dragging your finger tip in the same place every time you stroke.
Once the course and fine stones are used sufficiently, I move on to a sheet of 600 grt sandpaper on a clipboard using some light oil and pushing forward with each stroke.
Once the blade is polished slick with the 600 grt, I move on to ceramic crock sticks. This is the final step unless you wish to stromp the blade on leather.
I know that this a lengthy process that most guys just wont want to spend the time on. The one thing about the Grizzly is that once you've completed these steps and have achieved a shaving sharp edge they will remain forever easily sharpened. The head I shot the pig with last week was still shaving sharp after going through two rib cages. I hope this helps. Just keep an unchanging angle while sharpening and most of all be patient! Good luck. If you have questions then ask away! CK
posted
Thank you! I had purchased a dozen El-Grande Grizzly broadheads and was wondering how I was going to achieve a razor sharp edge, well now I know. Thank you again....Scott Fisher RN
-------------------- "The reward of a thing well done is to have done it.".. Ralph Waldo Emerson Posts: 2681 | From: Mesa, AZ | Registered: Mar 2003
| IP: Logged |
-------------------- The less i have the more i gain, off the beaten path i reign ~ James Hetfield listen to everyone,FOLLOW NO ONE!! if your lucky enough to spend time in the mountains...then your lucky enough! What ever befalls the Earth befalls the sons of the Earth. Posts: 6126 | From: the great Adirondacks | Registered: Apr 2004
| IP: Logged |
posted
Curtis , thanks for the tips I really appricate you and Charlie and Traz....on these Bhs...I may not need a razor soon ... marco#78... thanks ...( some broadhead companies I hear will sharpen them for you , ya just have to let them know when ordering)....then all ya need is touch -up
-------------------- "If you're living your life as if there is no GOD, you had better be right!" Posts: 12162 | From: Baton Rouge , La. | Registered: Mar 2003
| IP: Logged |
I really wish these companies that know their heads have some flaws would correct them before selling the product. Until then we'll have to depend on each other for help. Heck, half the fun in hunting success comes from personal preperation. Kinda gives extra meaning when you connect with game after hours of excruciating, time consuming preperation.
I've gotten email about exact degree of cutting angle. I have no absolute %. Reduce the angle to about 1/2 the factory edge. The main thing is to keep the angle constant weather it is 20% or 40%. Thanks again, CK
Posts: 5960 | From: So. Texas | Registered: May 2003
| IP: Logged |
UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!
Printer-friendly view of this topic
![[thumbsup]](graemlins/thumbsup.gif)
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
marco#78... ![[wavey]](graemlins/wavey.gif)
thanks 
