This brings back memories Tom. I made the one partially shown below about 15 years ago. I haven't weaved anything since then, but my quiver finally started to fall apart last month. Your thread has me thinking about trying to make a replacement now. Thanks.
-------------------- ST. HUBERT'S RANGERS, Brotherhood of the Medieval Hunt. MICHIGAN LONGBOW ASSOCIATION Scott Spears Osage English longbow,50#@28" Posts: 1001 | From: South Lyon, Michigan | Registered: Jul 2004
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Back to work! I'm skipping ahead a little. My last post suggested eight circuits with the 1/8" round reed after the chair cane.
Assuming you've done that, I add a few circuits with the 1/4" flat reed. You'll notice that the 1/4" flat is really easy to soften. It's also less ridged when dry, so I try only to use it for accents.
After the flat accent, I repeat the eight circuits with the round. The round reed makes a very strong basket, but at only 1/8", it goes pretty slowly, and without some contrast it would be pretty boring, IMHO. Some of you might think that my patterns are too busy, well fine then, make your own damn quiver! You should be able to when we're done with this.
Next, I start a run of the 3/4" flat. The important thing here is that we're going from 1/8" round to 3/4" flat. That's big difference, so we're going to have to taper the flat to make a smooth transition. Remember to cut it after it's soft, or you'll screw it up.
Tuck it in, and proceed as before. You'll notice that this is really easy stuff to weave, and at 3/4", you're really makin' tracks now.
When you get to the end, don't forget to taper it for the transition back to the 1/8" round. Yes, we're going back to the round, because it adds contrast, and strength in the middle of the quiver, and because I like it that way.
After the round, comes another section of the 3/4" flat, and then you should have something that looks like this.
We're getting near to the end of the prescribed length, so it's time to plan for the end of this puppy.
I'm going to finish the top of this quiver differently than the way those in last week's post were finished. In the past, I've finished the top using a two part ring of half round that sandwiched the uprights, then I bound the assembly together with chair cane.
I'll give some tips on how to do that later, because I'm going to finish this one by transitioning to 1/8" round uprights, and doing a round over weave. I think it will make a stronger and more reliable top.
Start by inserting 1/8" round reed on either side of the ouside uprights at the end of the last circuit
Cut them to about 14" length.
Then, weave a section of 1/8" round to finish the length of the quiver. Include the rounds with the half oval uprights as you go around. When you've reached the desired length, cut off the excess half oval.
I'm going to apologize in advance here, because I didn't take enough pictures of the next step. I'll try to do a good enough job of describing what goes on.
By now, you should have a quiver of the length that you want, with a bunch of 1/8" round uprights sprouting from the top at regular intervals all around. Now's the time that the quiver comes off of the form. This can be kinda tricky, because the reed shrinks as it dries. It might be a good idea to have someone help you pull it off. It also might be a good idea to wax the form berfore you start, but I've never tried it.
Once the quiver is off of the form, sit down, and hold it between your knees to do the next steps. You need to bend the uprights 90º, and around the next upright to the outside. Tuck it in behind the second upright, and repeat with the next upright behind the first.
You can do this either clockwise, or counter clockwise, it doesn't matter which way you go. I bend clockwise, and proceed counter clockwise, but I'm left handed, so do what's comfortable for you.
Once you've made your way around, you can continue to spiral the rounds around the adjacent pieces. lay them together like a cable, going out, around, under, and in.
Pull them snug, but not too tight, or you won't have room to get the next ones in. When you're done, snug them up all around, and cut off the excess. Don't cut them off too short, or you'll be pissin' and moanin' as the ends pull through.
When you're done, it should look something like this.
Now, you have a quiver, but no way to hang it, that's next.
We need to have a way to attach a strap to the quiver. What I like, is to make a couple of rings from 1/8" round reed, and weave them into the quiver. Your reed needs to be VERY soft for this step. If you can't bend it around your finger like this, don't start until you can.
I pick a spot on the quiver to put the strap. Usually, that's the upright where all the transitions are, since it will be against the wearer's back, and thus hidden from view when in use.
It's sometimes helpful to use an awl to open up the weave, so that you can insert the reed for the ring.
I like to make a double loop so that it's less likely to deform under a load of 800 grain arrows. Weave it in and out of the fabric of the quiver for a couple of courses, for each end, and tuck the ends in. Put a ring at each end, on the same upright, and you're done.
Now, give it to someone who makes it look good!
That's all folks! Hope you had fun with this, I did.
Mr. Scott, that was several jobs well done! The quiver you make is a thing of beauty, you have obviously put in many hours learning the weaver's skills. That you would share what you know is a generous gift to us all. Your text was most entertaining, while easy to follow and contained appropriate warnings about the places where it would be easy to mess up. It was as though you had seen me work! I was impressed also with the photography, as the pictures clearly show what you were relating.
The job that you did best was the most important, and the results are plainly evident in the smile on your wife's face as she waltzes off with her fine new quiver!
Kudos, sir, and a heartfelt "Thank You"! Killdeer
-------------------- Long, long afterward, in an oak I found the arrow, still unbroke; And the song, from beginning to end, I found again in the heart of a friend.
TGMM Family Of The Bow Posts: 15439 | From: Fibber McGee's Closet, VA | Registered: Mar 2003
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Great instructor and instructions (and I went to a lot of scools for that, and did a lot of it, in the MC, so I do know what it means to be one.)
-------------------- Bernie: "Hunters Are People Too"
Ret'd USMC '53-'72
Traditional Bow Shooters of West Virginia (Previously the Official Dinosaur Wrangler, Supporter, and Lifetime Honorary Member) TGMM Family of the Bow Posts: 21429 | From: S Coastal NC | Registered: Mar 2003
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TMS.... What can I say....Your Basket Quiver speaks for it's self.... Very nice craftmanship.... I will be patiently waiting.... I also sent ya a message.... Thanks again my friend....
-------------------- "Mike your friend In Traditional archery" (M.A.L.) www.mikesarcheryleather.com Leather Armguards,Quivers,and Accessories, Mike's Archery Leather "Rinehart 3D Target Dealer" "TGMM Family of the Bow" Posts: 4405 | From: Stockton California | Registered: Mar 2003
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Killi, I actually have only read one small paperback manual on basket weaving, the rest was a bit of trial and error. This quiver is actually trade goods for Mike G., in exchange for one of his excellent arm gaurds. Kris (my wife) only gets to model it. Her quiver is the green one in the previous picture. It's supposed to go with her green an yellow fletchings (that seem to disappear amongst the dandilions).
I would encourage anyone to try this, it's really very easy, and goes pretty quickly from start to finish.
I tend to make very stiff and rugged quivers to protect the arrows, because I'm pretty hard on stuff. But you can also make soft basket quivers that would conform more, and probably be quieter as well.