posted
Recent discussions about bow weight and broadhead design made me smile and chuckle under my breath.
Wish I had a nickel for every time I've seen those discussions come up over the years.... I can always predict the outcome as well.
No consensus and no revelations.
In most of the broadhead design discussions the German made SilverFlame broadheads pop up as an option. I find that interesting in that it's usually thrown right in with the 3 to1 ratio stuff as a top penetrator when it's design has not proven to be that efficient.
And I'm not knocking the SilverFlame either. I just think it's curious that it's super sharpness seems to put it in the same class as a 3 to 1 for penetration.
Now having said all that, let me throw a couple things out there that I've learned over the years.
Sharp is where it's at. It's what does the killing. It's what promotes penetration. It's what puts blood on the ground.
Getting your broadheads ultra sharp (regardless of design) is like adding pounds of draw to your bow. It was a pretty common saying "back in the day".
Since I see a lot of questions pop up every year about how to sharpen this broadhead and how to sharpen that one. Well, I've sure got an answer for anyone who thinks there broadhead sharpness is suspect or doubts their sharpening skills.
[ June 12, 2009, 08:23 AM: Message edited by: Charlie Lamb ]
posted
I like the ones that chime in once in a while about how they get their braodheads so sharp that it produces a wound channel that doesnt bleed. Sounds like a troll.
To piggyback here you always get the crowd that is all about shot placement too.
Id rather have the sharp broadhead as my means of decreasing my margin of error.
-------------------- Silence over speed. Heavier arrows never hurt. Posts: 873 | From: Savannah, GA | Registered: Feb 2008
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posted
Long ago (30 odd years) I purchased a jig that a friend suggested to me. It didn't take long to realize the value of that jig for both knives and broadheads.
Not only did the jig allow me to get my edges razor keen, but it did so with a minimum of metal removal and a complete consistency to the finished edge. I also found that that consistency made for a very tough edge which was also easily touched up in the field.
Well that old jig finally gave up the ghost a couple of years ago and I've sure missed it... that is until the other day when I got my new KME sharpening system.
WOW!!!
I've been working over every broadhead of every style I have and haven't found one I couldn't get a fine razor edge on in a jiffy.
-------------------- "Better to have that thing and not need it, than to need it and not have it" Woodrow F. Call
Commitment is like bacon & eggs; the chicken is involved, but the pig is committed.... Posts: 1493 | From: Louisburg, KS | Registered: Nov 2007
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posted
My first attempt was with my old reliable Magnus I. It sharpened up to freaky sharp too fast to satisfy my curiosity.
Even the triple thickness at the tip was a piece of cake... it usually requires a little extra work to sharpen fully. Magnus' great grind and the KME made it child's play.
A few passes with the coarse side of the diamond stone brought me to the edge and angle I like and a quick turn of the stone to the fine side and the wide blade was popping hairs like a barber's razor.
Since I use the Magnus I as a four blade I had to work over the bleeder blade as well.
The thin steel of replaceable bleeders always creates a problem for most bowhunters. Not with this system. I went straight to work with the fine hone and in just a couple strokes had improved the factory grind DRAMATICALLY.
[ June 11, 2009, 07:53 AM: Message edited by: Charlie Lamb ]
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Russ... KME's sharpeners are designed for the basic single blade or single blade with removeable bleeder.
Ron can fix you up with very nice stones for your three blade needs. All the stones with the knife sharpener and broadhead sharpener are first class and should last a very long time.
posted
Do you like the std stone kit or the diamond stone better? It looks as if you have one of each.
-------------------- Hunting with the bow and arrow involves earning your way by making meat, getting your hands messy in the process and then recognizing your own reflection upon them. "The Squirrel Chronicles" Dean Torges
TGMM Family of the Bow Posts: 1206 | From: Pikeville, TN | Registered: Jul 2003
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posted
My second experience was with a brand new Zwickey Eskimo. A fine broadhead (no doubt) the Zwickeys don't have the same refined grind from the factory.
The KME made short work of it anyway. On the first edge I used the broadhead sharpener and brought it to a fine polished edge in no time. For the second edge I chose to try the Knife sharpening kit.
You couldn't tell the difference in the two edges and the knife sharpener worked just as fast and easy.
[ June 11, 2009, 07:54 AM: Message edited by: Charlie Lamb ]
posted
Thanks Charlie, I appreciate your opinion as you're surely one of the sharpening gurus on here. So if you were to choose one (bang for the buck so to speak) the knife sharpener with the std stone is what you'd recommend for both knives and broadheads? I'd like a system that I could sharpen both on well, if that's possible.
-------------------- Hunting with the bow and arrow involves earning your way by making meat, getting your hands messy in the process and then recognizing your own reflection upon them. "The Squirrel Chronicles" Dean Torges
TGMM Family of the Bow Posts: 1206 | From: Pikeville, TN | Registered: Jul 2003
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