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» Trad Gang.com » Topic Archives » How To - Resources » Sharpening Grizzlies and Other Stuff (Page 1)

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Author Topic: Sharpening Grizzlies and Other Stuff
JimB
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This has come up a lot.I'm no sharpening genius but have tried several ways and all got them sharp,including the KME knife sharpener,but now I have worked out an almost idiot proof system using the KME broadhead sharpener,a DMT Diasharp diamond hone and an array of different grit wet or dry papers.I can almost close my eyes (not recomended) and get this done.

Before sharpening,I go over the head and file off any burrs left from stamping out the metal.Areas are marked in yellow.
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JimB
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You can feel when it's gone.
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JimB
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I colored the edge with a blue Sharpie,so I can see my progress.Why blue? That is what was in my pocket.
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JimB
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The Diasharp hone is 3"X8"X 3/8" steel bar with diamond impregnating the top surface.This is a precision hone but the 120 micron is very aggressive but that is needed here as these bevels are way off what they should be.

I have sharpened a bunch lately and they follow fairly closely to the angle of the KME.Not this batch of 6.I measure their angle at 32 dehrees.A far cry from 25.

On most of the newer Grizzlies I have done,a 220 hone would work.

The holder is nice to have too.
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JimB
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Clamping the broadhead.I want a repeatable clamp so I put the rear of the broadhead blade at the edge of the clamp and the point of the clamp at the tip of the broadhead's ferrule.The blade edge should be parallel with the rear edge of the clamp.
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JimB
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Before I do any bevel sharpening,I lay the flat back of the blade on the hone and and pull it along to true uo that back surface.I just propped it there for the picture but I press the blade down with two fingers of my left had and pull the KME with my right.
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JimB
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Some uneveness was removed.
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JimB
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I'm not showing the KME in action but this is it,flipped over to show the work of the first few strokes.These are going to take more work than normal.
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JimB
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The bevel is developing but has a ways to go.
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JimB
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Now the bevel id developed clear the the edge.That took some agressive honing and an agressive stone.It took about 10 minutes which is at least twice that of the last bunch I did.The hard part is over.It goes quickly from here.
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JimB
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While the camera wasn't looking,I cheated.I have a 220 diamond hone and a 325.I gave several strokes on each and now am going to wet or dry sandpaper in a variety of grits from 400 to 2000.You could start with one 220 diamond hone or no hone at all and use 120-220 grit papers on a hard,true surface and go through grits as fine as you like.I cut my papers to lay on the steel hone.
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Steve O
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So the KME are riding on the block on the counter? And moving point first toward you lengthwise on the stone?

These are great pics for a guy like me that only does 3 blades.

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JimB
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I just raise the front of my hone and pinch the front of the paper under it.I pull the rear of the paper taut with my left hand and work the KME with my right.This goes very quickly.You just need several strokes with each grit now.After stroking the bevel,I flip it over and draw the flat back a couple times,then go on to the next grit and repeat.

You don't need or want much pressure,going through these papers and even less as you get finer.You have developed a fine little burr along the edge and it goes back and forth as you hone the bevel and then the flat back of the blade.Hopefully you work it off during the 2000 grit stage.

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Night Wing
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Nice little tutorial. Thanks for sharing your photos and comments. Should come in handy.

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Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 42# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 10.02
Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 37# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 11.37

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JimB
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No Stevo,I just propped it on the block so I could put 2 hands on the camera.I hold the blade flat to the stone with my left,feeling the contact and draw the fixture with my right.The would block isn't used.

I took this one to the 2000 grit stage and the burr came off pretty well.I sometimes strop with cardbord at this point.Here is the finished edge.

I have also sharpened double bevel two blades like the STOS using almost the same technique.The difference is,you sharpen one bevel,swivel the clamp,sharpen the other side bevel,then move to the next grit.The results are the same.The KME and a good,flat honing surface keep a tremendous consistency and it is repeatable.It keeps me from screwing up and I need that.

My apologies to moderators.I probably put this in the wrong section but didn't think about it till part way through.I may get a call and have to run out so have been fighting the clock a little,getting this up.I hope you can move it to the appropriate place if need be.Thanks.

If I have to run,I will try to get back if there are any questions on anything I may have skipped over.Be careful with these.They will cut.
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